Hey Guys, Before I do anything... Just thought I'd check here... Hauling gravel today.... Made 5 runs to the Pit. First load... Didn't go far after loading 5 yds of Wet class 1 gravel and my power steering quit... Last time out I blew a power steering hose (old) But this time.... No oil leaking anywhere... Hmmm Pump? sheared a key ? L10 Cummings Thanks for any replies
Loosen the pressure hose at the steering box and see what you have there at an idle. Tighten that hose then check what is coming out of the return hose. Truck Shop
Also, check the filter. If it's old and nasty it may have let a little piece of trash into the relief valve. The last one I did I could remove from the pump without pulling it off the motor. Carefully disassemble and see if there's trash in it. Something as small as a grain of sand (or smaller) will plug the tiny hole in it.
Checking the pressure hose was my first thought.... . The Mechanic was the guy loading me... So I picked his brain a little. He mentioned that Filter inside the tank... That sounds Like a place to start after checking the pressure side. . Something I'm hoping... One of the wrench hands said it might be a stuck valve. I'm hoping to go start it up... and the problem gone... Fatt Chance... . I'll update any progress... Thank fer yer help. Gotta Fly...
Lemme bounce this off the Wall... Anything wrong with putting Hyd Oil in the power steering ??? I think I've added Tranny fluid or Hyd oil in them fer years... I'd like to know if this somehow eats seals or something ... Maybe too heavy ? Gotta Fly...
OK... Opened the Tank to look at the Filter... Hmmm,... No oil... I looked at the filter... oil flows through it fine. I added some oil to check it again... No power steering and the oil disappeared... Where did the oil go ? It didn't leak...I didn't see anything. Got company coming over , But next chance I get I'll pull the pump... I'm hoping that it's a sealed connection... Otherwise it sounds like the escaped oil went into my crank oil ??? Is that possible ? Gotta Fly... .
Good chance your pump needs a reseal job. Check and see if your engine is making oil. I see this quite often on older engines. The seals harden up and dump the PS oil into the crankcase. I'm not sure which pump would be on your truck, but more than likely that's the culprit.
I see auto zone sells seal kits for 1994 L9000 for about $15 bucks... Might be worth a shot instead of buying a rebuilt pump Thanks for the reply... Gotta Fly...
Almost all heavy truck makers recommend engine oil in the power steering. If you had a belt drive pump, hyd. oil would be just fine. Hydraulic oil is very bad in diesel engines, though.
Thanks for that info... interesting... So if I put motor oil in the P/S.... Do I put a thinner grade than my 15/40 Rotilla ? Gotta Fly...
nope
Most of the older power steering pumps called for ATF or 15W-40 but you were not supposed to mix them in the same system. Same with old Allison automatic transmissions. I would put hydraulic oil in the ATF category.
Correct BV. The later aluminum body TRW pumps will die under a driver that can't back up. Especially if the truck has a drop axle, when raised for backing up the steer axle weight jumps to 15,000 plus. A driver that can't back up or line his truck up for backing will turn the ATF black in no time. I keep a pump on the shelf. In 100* weather it takes it's toll on a aluminum pump in no time with a steering wheel holder. Truck Shop
IIRC, Peterbilt had a service bulletin out in 2009 to have dealers switch out red fluid to 15/40 engine oil as part of their pre-delivery inspections. Most of those trucks were equipped with the TRW pumps. I learned about that when a customer lost the steering on a new pete in his yard. Turned out somebody in Denton TX. forget to pull a plastic plug out of the pump suction, They paid my bill.
I have never seen any late model PacCar or Freightliners with 15 X 40. But we had nine 2005 T 800's with the wrong pump from the factory. Weather it's Pete, KW or Freightliner there all using the TRW pump and the same reservoir. Truck Shop
I know money is tight but with a shaft seal failure and hours? on the system you may want to take the exchange pump assembly route. Take the cheap route and may save initially but end up pulling the pump twice or losing steering at the least opportune time.
Wow... I didn't know about all the responses... Thanks guys ! I got it fixed...Tracked down the pump at a local used truck parts for only $100 bucks The pump was smaller and actually bolted in the opposite holes as the old pump... But it was 767 series... That seemed to be the key. It cost over $100 in oil... plus a $35 filter... I put 15w-40 in the power steering system , and TAGGED it... I cut the type out of the oil container and bolted by the filler tube See the picture. Thanks for all the help, Gotta Fly... PS... I was DONE... Oil in the power steering , Oil in the engine... Ready to start it and check it for leaks... CRAP !!! The Reservoir Tank was leaking !!! I took it back off... Cleaned it up and Oxy welded it with silicone Bronze ... JAM
Glad you got it taken care of and took the time to let us know
Hey everyone, I know this is an old forum but I’m stuck and need some help. I have a 1988L 9000 with a big cam Cummins. My power steering pump went out and I can’t find it anywhere. The part number is RP70103X and absolutely nobody has it. Is there a different pump that will now work on this truck? It is gear driven. Any help would definitely be appreciated!
That looks like a three line pump, pressure, suction and by pass. Below is the common Vickers #10 pump found on Cummins BC 855's. Some also used a three line Vickers #20. *
Thanks for the information! One more question. The guy I bought it from removed the wedge breaks from the front and obviously these are obsolete now. Has anyone had any experience changing it from wedge style to s cam breaks? This is really an old farm truck so I’ve gotten by with it for years now but would really like to get some front breaks lol. Thanks for the help!
Lot of trucks around here didn't run front BRAKES till 90s+ Had an 80s Ford that had a "normal/icy" lever on the dash that would turn off the front brakes.
Look for the model number on axle something like 931 or 961 Rockwell. IIRC you will need to change both spindles so S-cam backing plates have mounting. Sometimes it's best to find a whole axle rather than parts and pieces. Used with decent king pins run 700 to 800 depending on the yard.
Make sure you have the correct filter in there. They made two different ones and one had a shorter standpipe and when you put the cover on it wouldn't tighten the filter allowing it to slide up and down on the hold down bolt and won't filter doing that.
Ok thanks so much for all the info everyone! This is very helpful and I’ll look into it!