My glow plugs are not working I think it is the 4 wire solenoid behind the intake. I have power to 3 of the 4 terminals but not the one going to the glow plugs. What turns these off? I am easily change that solenoid but my concern is the solenoid burning out again if they stay on. Also I am missing some wiring to the flasher does anyone know the colors of wire of the wires going to the flasher. All wiring looks intact but when I bought it was missing the flasher and the wires are not on the backside of the panel. What flasher part number?
The black box underneath is the glow plug timer often replaced as an assembly but can be done separate The terminal that is open in the pic is out to the glow plugs To check the glow plugs them self's slide off the wire on each on with a test lamp clamped to the positive battery terminal touch the connector on the glow plug with the light if it lights good if not plug is open-burned out and needs replacement
Those controllers stink. Any burned out glow plugs or a tiny bit loose wire connections and they will not heat the plugs long enough to start. I wonder if anybody has come up with a fixed timer box to replace it? I know I could build one out of standard components but I don't know that it would work right without some fine tuning but a specialty shop might.
I put in a relay with a push button switch in the cab. Works well. Doesn’t take long to figure out how long to hold the button down.
The GP relay reads coolant temp.. theres a sensor in the manifold.. Its important to keep the coolant topped off.. IF your replacing that sensor, READ the instructions.. Your supposed to install the sensor & let it sit for 24 hrs to acclimate..
TPG, you are describing what was found on the 6.9 before about 1987. I don't know if International kept using it after then but Ford switched to the one pictured around the time the engine became 7.3 liters. It only senses glow plug current and if absolutely anything goes wrong with the glow plug circuit the truck will not start. Except sometimes cycling the key 2 or 3 times will get it enough heat to start. The coolant sensing model on the other hand would fail leaving the glow plugs on randomly which could burn them out or even swell them in the head. My old 6.9 had only 3 working glow plugs but started right up, except at high altitudes when very cold, it would buck and smoke like a tire fire for about 30 seconds until the other cylinders decided to come along.
My 99 7.3 has a similar controller, and YES, ALL the GPs have to be in decent order or it will start screwing up, luckily only once have I had to replace GPs, twice on valve cover gasket under cover harnesses.