Good evening guys, I have what should be a fairly simple fix here but its got me a bit stumped. I have a1995 l180, l180v60222 is the serial. The intake heater has not worked since ive owned the machine which was 2011. We have found the maxi fuse and bridge popped and replaced those, fuses all check out ok. today i put 24v to the signal wire on the relay and heard it pull in, but it would not pass current through to the element. I ordered a new relay but I cant make the signal wire energize utilizing the key switch and preheat switch method. Do you guys know if theres any sort of thermostat where it wont let the machine preheat if its too warm? just trying to cover all my bases before the relay arrives. Thanks!
Hi I hope this helps, it looks like you have a pair of relays the first of which is controlled by an ecu, so it's probably best to start there, also annoyingly there is a switch which isn't listed? SW25B which could cause a problem
This does help thank you! Im going to check relay 12 as relay 40 is the large one on the side of the engine which ive already ordered. thank you!
Was looking over the schematic and noticed that SW25(L9) sends power through wire W/BL to ECUEA19 which outputs to RE12 Relay as you have already posted. FU 13 - 5 amp fuse feeds also. Seen a few diodes up above on schematic. Today I worked on a Customers Arctic Cat Side by Side that the 4 wheel drive never worked for 7 years since he got it. He put in a new Actuator for the 4X4 and switch. $300 spent and nothing. I blew off the fuse panel tested all the fuses only to find a diode in backwards. NO it can't be the problem! Jacked up on stands and full 4WD with lock up now working. He was in disbelief. Check everything and if unsure someone will be able to sort out your problem. Your RE40 looks suspect as it will be carrying all the current to the heater, but it does have to have good functional control circuit. If unsure how to test any of it I could maybe help. Simon C
do you know the purpose of the 2nd small wire on the relay? the first one is the trigger or signal wire telling the relay to pull in. is the 2nd one with the 5 amp fuse just for the indicator lamp on the dash to tell the operator that the system is working?
Relay RE12 is triggered by pin 86, which is a yellow wire by the schematic. Fuse FU13 is the main power for that relay. Just be aware that Relay RE12 has a Diode built in or on the side of it as is seen on the schematic. When that relay switches, it becomes the signal for relay RE40 that feeds FH3 and HE1 preheating coils. I generally test the relays under load off the machine with a battery and bulb to make sure it can handle load. Make sure to check diode 3.1 that is just to the right of Relay RE12 on the schematic. I am guessing this thing is 24 volts or is it 12 volts. Any questions fire away. Simon C
In answer to your other question that I missed, FH1 is a 5 amp fuse that feeds LC13 control lamp on the dash is my guess. If LC 13 is lighted up you may have a problem in the the pre-heating coils. Simon C
I think the good news is that the lamp on the dash does not light up, hopefully meaning the coil is good. I wouldnt have the first idea how to test that diode honestly. This machine is definitely 24 volts. the only thing i found that is 12, is the am/fm radio feed.
If the dash bulb is burnt out you wouldn't know if it was powered. Go to connection before grid heater and when someone activates the relay, take an incandescent test light and check if any power comes out of relay. If none then relay or control circuit is the problem. Everytime the relay kicks out the contacts inside the relay arc until there is nothing left of them or too much carbon within. You know that that grid heater can easily be wired through a Cole Hersee relay easily for I bet a fraction of the cost. Just wanted to say it is an option. I have done a few. Simon C
As it turns out, i was over thinking everything. the relay/ solenoid was bad for the intake heater. volvo wanted 485.00 for it, so i decided to try one from friday parts for 70ish bucks. everything fit, wired right up and worked flawlessly. thanks for the help guys!
Glad you found another relay that can do the same thing. In case the new one does not last long be mindful that relays are duty cycled and some can withstand much more amps than others and for a much longer time. I have used some high capacity Cole Hersee ones that can be seen on their web site. Always be mindful of the voltage. amps capacity, and on/off time. The low capacity ones do not last very long. Pollack is another company that sells some high capacity solenoids. Hope it helps. Simon C