I just purchased a plow truck 1997 international 4900 s/a I am having a problem with the dash.. from what I hear it's common. But I also cannot find the air brake warning buzzer. The truck is in real good shape but needs a rocker panel. Is there any place that they can be purchased? Or am I going to have to make it up myself? Any place to get a repair manual? Thanks in advance
What is the problem with the dash? The warning buzzer should be in the fuse box on the left side under the dash. It plugs into one of the sockets. Its taller than the cover so there is a notch cut out for it. Terry
The tach and spedo don't work and most of the lights in the dash don't come on either. Now seeing it the buzzer doesn't work cause some one removed it. Thank you
send it to the place in Virginia to get it fixed, i can't remember the name of it exactly but they fixed the dash in my 4700 for around $200 bucks.
Does the tach and speedo needles do the test sweep when you turn the key on?
They each go up one quarter then go down. Then the tech Stays at 0 and the speedo at fastest
A common problem with the International instrument panel is the solder joints on the connectors on the circuit board that plug into the dash harness crack and make intermittent or no connection. This is caused by the harness connectors vibrating and bouncing when the vehicle hits bumps. The Instrument panel has to be removed and the circuit board removed from the panel and the connectors re-soldered. I have fixed quite a few International instrument panels over the years that had this problem. Every one had different symptoms. I strongly recommend replacing all the bulbs while you are in there as they do burn out. Terry
Thank you for the help. I got hold of a guy out of mass. 250 all completely rebuilt. I am very happy with it.
I am also looking into why my truck isn't starting. It cranks over for about 3-5 seconds then stops but won't start. Now this is when I have jumper cables hooked up. But the service light is flashing really fast. If I remove the number 4 relay the light is steady and nice and bright. IDK if it's a ground problem of a batt problem. Anyone have any advice? Thank you
I have replaced the batteries they were bad. Still doesn't start. Found out the wiring plug behind the key switch is melted and one wire is not connected. I guess from what international says the computer is trying to protect the motor. Two relays mounted on the center firewall by the cpu are clicking like crazy. Found out the ground is flickering
I replaced the key switch and the wiring still having relays clicking and the neutral switch is clicking also. Does anyone know what the relays are that are with the ecm above the engine
The brake warning buzzer plugs into the fuse box under the left side of the dash the fuse box cover has a cut out for it so it can close with the buzzer installed. There should be two fuses in the battery box for the engine make sure they are good. There is a three pin plug in the battery box as well that the fuses connect through the third pin the white wire is the ECM ground. Make sure that these connections are good. There are ground cables that goes from the starter ground stud to the frame and engine block. There are two power wires coming off the positive post on the starter that feed the cab make sure all these connections are good. Also follow the wires and make sure they have not rubbed through. Holes in the insulation can result in corrosion eating away the conductor inside the wire. Yank on the wires and see if anything lets go. I was taught that all wires and terminals should stand up to the 10Lb tug test if something lets go you found the problem. Terry
This is the component locations for the engine electrical. I can email you a larger copy if you PM me your email. The website has reduced it's size for some reason. Terry
Thank you for the reply's I will be doing some checking
Here is a link to a better pic of the component location. There may be a exhaust brake relay mounted by the IDM on the firewall that is not shown in the drawing. Terry http://i.imgur.com/yrzimBi.jpg
So it goes map sensor then there are three relays on top of my engine. According to the pic the inhibit relay is going to be behind the air cleaner. I have 3 relays and the map sensor on mine
If you remove the top cover on the dash in front of the passenger's seat you will find more relays. The crank inhibit relay is in there. Do you have an exhaust brake? That's probably what the third relay by the IDM is. Terry
Thank you very much for the pic and info
I do not know about an exhaust brake. I did say that this is a 97. I am new to trucks like this
The exhaust brake is an air operated butterfly valve located in the exhaust pipe behind the turbo. If you have the third relay you probably have an exhaust brake. The exhaust brake doesn't do a lot but it helps. Terry
Ok I have been checking on everything. I have been checking grounds and everything I can. I tried starting it this morning it was cranking over but wouldn't start. Then after about three or four tries it won't even turn over now. Relays are still clicking. And so is the part on the transmission. The positive on the trans"can" is flickering and the ground on the relays is what is flickering. I don't know where to go first. Would the inhibitor relay cause all of this? How to you test it? Thank you in advance.
Ok I tried taking the dash apart on the pass side. It only has the heater box there. I know this is a stupid problem and something simple. I don't know what the three relays are but with them clicking like crazy I know it's stupid. I have tugged on every wire I can find no change. The only change I get is if I unplug any different sensor on the truck then the clicking will slow a bit
When the relays start clicking on and off it is usually a connection problem somewhere. When the key is turned on every thing powers up creating a load. The load exceeds what poor connection can supply and the load drops causing the relays to click off. Now there is no load so the relays power up again. The cycle keeps repeating. Is there any other circuits that are affected? heater or lights? You said there was a burnt wire at the key switch. Check and see if there are large voltage fluctuations at the Batt and IGN connectors at the back of the key switch. Check for the same at the fuse panel under the dash. A bad ground can cause this too. My best guess. Terry
Ok I will check the key switch. And wires thank you for responding I have been hunting down and cleaning all grounds that I can find. I tried this morning and the truck now cranks over for about three seconds then cuts itself out. But it won't start. Like no fuel. But the relays are going nuts. Once I find the cause of that I think that's my problem.
The only thing I have noticed is the round can on the transmission is clicking and the relays. And the warn eng light in the dash. Other than that everything else seems fine lights and heater seem to work normal
here are links to the wiring diagrams for the ECM and IDM relays. 1 http://i.imgur.com/aH5Pq5t.jpg 2 http://i.imgur.com/woZkiBL.jpg 3 http://i.imgur.com/VegOU7Z.jpg And The Transmission. http://i.imgur.com/4WGtQ2M.jpg
Thank you. That's what i need exactly. Thanks again
https://youtu.be/PzWEUMuRXug here is a video of what I have. And I did find more relays behind the passenger side dash. Brake relay start relay and AC relays. Which I don't have AC
https://youtu.be/bso0hRQNEhQ
There are 2 fuses in the battery box that feed the clean power harness to the ECM and IDM. There is also a ground wire coming from the batteries. The ground has a splice just inside the frame where it becomes 2 ground wires. They go through a flat 4 pin metripack connector just above the starter. The clean power harness continues up near the steering column and there is the same 4 pin Metripack connector. Unplug the clean power harness near the steering column and load test both the power and ground wires. I use a head light bulb using both the high and low beam filaments. The 2 circuits should have no problem powering both head light filaments. The clean power connectors look something like the picture below.
Thank you again for your reply I will try that
Here is another diagram and the pin out for the 379 ECM connector. http://i.imgur.com/vzkjusk.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uv0coxG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/h2uEJ1g.jpg?1 There is a small plastic cover at the top of the firewall on the drivers side. The ECM connector Chassis Connector a Deutsch connector and a ground stud are located under it. unplug the connectors and make sure there not corroded and make sure the ground connections are good. Terry
Ok so I have done some testing and the pin out of the ecm number 33 is flickering. I also can't seem to get a ground at number 31 that one is for the cmp
The ground stud in the plastic area is good and clean also
I doubt you would be able to find a breakout connector for the ECM. The following checks have to be done with the ECM connector connected to the ECM. I would start by checking the grounds at the ECM pins 20, 40 and 60, With the ignition on. See if they are flickering. I hate cutting into wiring harnesses but you may not have a choice. If you take a large sewing needle in a pin vice and carefully slip the tip of the needle between the wire and the rubber seal on the back of the ECM connector you may be able to probe the connectors. Put the lead from your test light on the positive post on the starter and touch it to the needle. The test light should light if it flickers there is a ground problem. If it lights up the grounds are good. Move your test light lead to a good ground and next check the ignition power at pins 57 and 37 with the ignition on they should have 12 volts. Are they flickering? I would check pin 1 keep alive power as well it should have 12 volts key on or off. Terry
Pin 57 flickering. 20 40 60 all good groubds
Is pin 37 flickering too? You need to follow the wire from 57 and 37 back to where they get power. I will look and see if I can find a diagram. Terry
37 has a ground and so does number one
According to the wire schematic you sent me before 57 and 37 go to the relays that are clicking.
Your right my mistake. 37 and 57 are powered by the ECM power relay. Without going back and reading this whole thread again. Did you check the power and grounds ate the ECM power relay?
Yes I had power at the relays but the grounds were flickering. I had tried shaping relays to see if it made a difference but it didn't. Unless both relays are bad but the grounds at the relays were flickering
The IDM relay looks to be grounded through the ECM pin 33. The diagram does not show where the ground for the ECM power relay is connected. Probably a body ground somewhere. It might be an idea to make up a new ground connection for it. Make sure you ground the correct relay. Terry
I will try that. I am confused at what the third relay is but I will check it now. Thank you
Ecm pin 33 solid ground with the key off. Turn key on and it flickers
When the ECM relay clicks on and off the ECM powers on and off so the IDM ground supplied by the ECM will go on and off or flicker I suspect. Try grounding pin 5 on the ECM relay.
Pulled the ecm relay one had a solid power and three grounds solid with the key on and the relay pulled
How are you testing the grounds?
I am using a test light with it hooked to power on the batt
Try grounding pin 5 on the ECM relay.
Ok I'll go try that
After testing everything the truck won't crank over now
I am not a
I am not sure what pin five on the relay is. As in which one there is a 87 30 86 85 87
It will not crank with pin 5 grounded?
It won't crank with nothing done to it. Not positive on which pin is pin 5 on the relay
When I get home from work I will post some more diagrams. Terry
I appreciate your help very much. Thank you
Check Your Private Messages. Terry
Ok first off I was checking the ecm plugs backwards what I thought was pin 41 was actually pin 1 so with that said pin 57 and pin 1 only have 6.68 Volta with the key on. With the key off pin 1 has only 9.3 volts. Battery's have 12.5
Ok at pin 1 if I put my test light into it and test for power there is only a couple volts. If I run a jumper wire to the test light from the power. To give pin one full voltage it has no more clicking on the relays and when I tried to turn it over it was actually trying to start
Just wondering if it did start would there be a problem with it where I couldn't shut it down or would that wire be feeding something else
You may have to take the jumper off to stop the engine. Pin 57 gets it's power through the ECM relay. It's possible that the relay it's self is the problem.
With that jumper on everything works correctly so I am going to chase down the wire and repair it cuz it must be broken at some point thank you so much for all of your help I would really appreciate it