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1999 Volvo L90C contronic display not working Serial no.00V63088

James Sorochan · 2021-12-30 09:09

Hi everyone. Has anyone ever tried getting the display repaired on one of these? There is power coming from the harness but nothing on the display. I input the make and model no. on my computer and one of the hits was an outfit called ACS Industrial service out of Hickory, SC in the states. I see on the site they repair this kind of stuff. The display shows all the temperatures and pressures etc. of the various components on the loader. I have not tried the dealer up here ( Strongco ) because anything I have tried in the past when it comes to price has been out of this world. Has anyone has gone this route? Thanks.

Replies25
  1. #1mekanik2021-12-30 09:30

    I can't see why you couldn't get it fixed. It might be a simple repair. There is a place in Canada I contacted about repairing a Cat monitor. Thy quoted me $450 to repair it and no charge if they tried and could not. A new monitor was $2000. We opted for a new one as the turnaround time with shipping was too long.

  2. #2funwithfuel2021-12-30 11:01

    Silly question but did you press the 2 buttons simultaneously to get her to wake up?

  3. #3funwithfuel2021-12-30 11:05

    I believe the 2 button closest to panel which should be arrows , press and hold 2 seconds, see if that doesn't turn it on. I have no first hand experience with ASC , but they are a dealer for Volvo down south. Good luck.

  4. #4James Sorochan2021-12-30 11:14

    OK, thanks funwithfuel. I'll give it a try.

  5. #5mekanik2021-12-30 11:32

    James I just noticed you are in Canada. This is the person that figured he could repair the Cat monitor: http://www.autoelectricconnection.ca/

  6. #6James Sorochan2021-12-30 12:14

    mekanik, thanks for this.

  7. #7James Sorochan2021-12-30 12:58

    I tried pressing the arrow buttons simultaneously and only got a ticking noise with no screen.

  8. #8funwithfuel2021-12-30 13:15

    Well that bites. Yellow/red wire ignition power. White/ black wire, ground. Green/ red should be tied into the instrument lights. IIRC , there is a Phillips screw, super tiny, like eyeglasses small. Where you could turn it to make gains in contrast. It's accessible from the back and the only thing remotely serviceable. Good luck

  9. #9James Sorochan2021-12-30 13:23

    OK, thanks. I'll crawl back under the dash and give it a try.

  10. #10James Sorochan2021-12-30 16:08

    So far I have unplugged display and checked power on the red/yellow wire at 28.2v. The green/red right next to it shows nothing. I’ll try getting the unit out so I can try and adjust the phyllips screw.

  11. #11funwithfuel2021-12-30 16:09

    Green/ red should be hot with lights turned on. You have good ground at white/black?

  12. #12James Sorochan2021-12-30 17:02

    I believe so. The yellow/red showed 28.2v. 29.9v with lights on. Green/red still nothing. Where to now?

  13. #13James Sorochan2021-12-31 11:49

    I’m looking at the gr/r in the wiring diagram. Can someone explain this for me. This one has no power to it.

  14. #14funwithfuel2021-12-31 11:57

    That comes from schematic 8 find the flag on 8 that points to current drawing. It should lead back to the light switch and fuse 8, I think. I believe that is only for backlighting.

  15. #15funwithfuel2021-12-31 11:58

    Sorry I left ya hangin.

  16. #16James Sorochan2021-12-31 12:15

    No problem. I will run out and check fuse 8

  17. #17James Sorochan2021-12-31 12:52

    Fuse 8 looks ok. I’m not sure what to do now. Here is I think the diagram. Do I have to chase that g/r wire and see if it’s broken?

  18. #18funwithfuel2021-12-31 13:27

    See how fuse 8 feeds switch 20 then onto fuse 27, where it goes through resistor 8, and then off to schematic 24. To help, it's helpful to know what the boxes mean. 30 is battery voltage, 31 is ground. 15 is ignition switch controlled voltage, in some instances, you will see 15A, 15B or 15EA . This will sometimes tell you which relay controls that power. Pointed flags point you to the schematic where that circuit continues. Thick black lines are printed circuit on the fuse board. Broken lines surrounding is indicating that is the border of the circuit board or other component. I hope this helps it all make a little more sense.

  19. #19James Sorochan2021-12-31 14:03

    A friend who happens to be a electrician just stopped by to help with a generator. I’ll ask if he can help. Thanks funwithfuel.

  20. #20James Sorochan2021-12-31 15:17

    Opened up the display unit to take a peak since we had it out. Don’t see anything obviously wronged bad soldering, hot spots.

  21. #21funwithfuel2022-01-01 08:04

    Did you find the contrast gain?

  22. #22James Sorochan2022-01-01 08:41

    Yes. It took a small flat screwdriver to turn it. Nothing.

  23. #23funwithfuel2022-01-01 09:07

    That's all I got. Does it even light up? Did it go out all at once or fade out over time?

  24. #24James Sorochan2022-01-01 09:16

    Came that way when I pick up machine last summer. I have a buddy in the Peg that works for an outfit that builds wiring harnesses and components for equipment. He works in the research and development department. Maybe I see if he can take a look at it.

  25. #25John C.2022-01-02 11:57

    Map directions? Drive for about five minutes till you see a fir tree on the left side of the road, take the second left after that, then go through the zig zag and past the yellow house on the right, don't turn there, turn at the next left with all the cows in the field, then go up the steep dirt drive way until it turns to gravel, stay on that road and follow the beaten path to the logging site.