First time here..looks like the perfect place for me! Recently bought a case 1845 , 1980 year, so the 188D diesel motor. IT's had a lot of good service done to it, but needs to get the coupler between engine and hydraulic pump replaced. saw one in another thread HeavyEquipmentForums anyone have good source that's not oem? I'm thinking to dig into part numbers and piece together...or perhaps a used one from 1835 or 1845? No pictures yet...i'm assuming she isn't pretty...but well taken care of . cheers, Hayes
Looks like a drive line shop could make that up. Sometimes surpluscenter.com has some good stuff at good prices, too...
Are you looking for the complete assembly or just the U-joint? If the yokes are in good shape any good automotive or heavy truck parts supplier should be able to match the U-joint for you. If you need help changing the U-joint a good auto repair or machine shop can press it in. Just make sure it moves freely on both axis before you reinstall.
I would check loader parts source. Great customer service and seems to have a good supply.
Thanks! Thanks for the advice. My friend is a heavy equipment/coach mechanic (failure to mention that is not good i suppose). Think we were looking for a part that we can repair in advance of the job. But will probably end up opening machine up, moving the engine the 3-4inches or whatnot to allow for removal of the coupler and then getting it rebuilt if that's possible. could be that the splines are messed...but a driveline shop is 500 or so vs the 873+tax at the dealership... we did see one on ebay that looked like splines were good to go...and it sold right away. Will check in here with pictures etc when it finally arrives at my property. my first job for it will be scooping firewood form my pile to new wood'shed'. thanks again, Hayes
If you suspect spline slippage, sometimes that can be corrected by cutting a slot in the female half, and adding a clamp bolt, but it is best use of labor, to replace both halves with new...
--- we will replace the female side, hoping shaft on pump is ok, TBD i suppose. We have part numbers pretty much now. looks like ~200 dollars vs 870+ from dealer . 'ill let you know how we go with it. thanks Dave, Hayes
Dave.. have you called Dale at tractor stuff?? He's the go to guy for used Case parts.. 1800-428-8183
My experience is splined joints wear together. Consider replacing as a complete unit. If you're a good fabricator, maybe make one up if you can find parts that you can make work (here). http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/cat_driveshaftcomp.html . I think there are some other places on the internet as well if you search out.
Well. We have finished the fix. Ended up having to buy the motor side flange (motor to u-joint) from Case. 280 cdn. ugh. (Strongco in Ontario). the u-joints are standard spicers, the h-section in middle the driveline guy provided. He also cleaned up and put together ujoints and the pump side flange which was still good (splined coupling). here are some photos.
Here are pics of machine in various states of engine out to do the fix etc.
And, picture of the machine itself. My friend (the guy who did the fixing part..it wasn't me lol) is going to be bringing/shipping to my country property for snow duty in next couple of weeks. So much good maintenance done on machine already (wheel bearings, injector pump etc). It was a steel for sure. Cost of the repairs for parts alone for that drive shaft? 650 dollars without labour. Thanks for all the inputs. 'I'll be back' i'm sure. Cheers!
Yeah, not cheap (is anything from Case?) ...but nice to know Case still supports older machines, and nice to see pics of a classic skid steer. Can I ask what you had to give for that old girl, out of curiousity? Does it have aux hydraulics? Your mechanic may have done these things already, but if not, be sure to have him: - Check and adjust drive chains if needed - Inspect drive chain sprockets for wear - Change drive chain case oil, and/or even flush out the chain cases with a diesel/oil mix. Especially before winter because water in there could freeze and prevent your skid from moving. - Change fluid in both hydraulic drive planetarys. At least don't let it leave his shop w/o him checking there's 'enough' lube in there. There have been a few sad owners on this site that didn't know they had to check them and the bill for planetary repairs will make the drive shaft repair look extremely inexpensive. - New filters (I'm sure he's changed those) - Inspect all hoses for excessive cracking and put those that need it on the replace list (so you don't have a mid-winter failure) - Lube all points and oil control linkages with light oil to prevent them from freezing up - Change any suspicious cooling system hoses, belts, water pump, idler bearings, etc ahead of time because it's a lot cheaper to do now (a coolant issue that operators can't see back there can and 'do' cause motors to crap out). I had my radiator out this summer and, though they're not cheap, I changed the old mediocre-looking hoses to avoid problems. Cheap insurance. - Ensure all emergency brakes, safeties and seat belts are in good working order. Always wear your seat belt and shut it down before getting in/out. Put in a new seat belt if yours has been removed. Some guys used to catch their pants pocket on the control arms when getting in/out and sadly get run over by their own machine. I tell my neighbor when he borrows my skid steer to shut it down when he needs to get in/out because I'd rather buy a new starter than a new suit for his funeral. - Speaking of the Starter - Maybe, if your guy can still do it, take the back off the starter and see what the brushes and commutator look like, or, have a starter/alternator shop go through it. If not this year, maybe next. It's not too expensive to re-fresh a working starter vs, fixing a damaged one, worse yet is having a stuck machine that you can't move. Especially given that your unit is a 35+ year old machine. Ensure all battery cable connections are good and clean/tight. Just throwing out some ideas there. Good job on the new skid!