I made myself an extractor that works like a charm but am having anger-management issues with disassembling possibly 33 year old Deutz type injectors just removed for an F6L912. I need to open one of these to make myself a compression testing adapter consisting of just a female/female coupling that will join a gutted injector to one of those adapters in my kit that are in the box with the gauge. So, what tricks have proven to work in unscrewing the 2 injector body parts made in 1991 and possibly never since separated?
BRUTE Force
Sometimes they chirp as they finally break loose. In this case, a bit of heat may help- you’re not going to reuse it as a functioning injector anyway
I will if I can; I mean isn't the name of the game to make instead of buy? My local blacksmith cannibalised one of the useless adapters that came with the gauge kit to one that I can use 'with the actual injector'. Total cost $10, after I separate the injector and remove the guts and the end nozzle all I'll have to do is plug the return line hole and use the existing clamping apparatus.
...done. My blacksmith said not to heat because of the spring, and to tap with a 'small' sledgehammer round-and-round about 50 times before trying brute force This worked out OK, opened one and gutted it temporarily. All cylinders read 150-200 psi although there was some leakage that I could hear and the check-valve in my gauge packed up again; suffice it to say that they were all much the same. Tomorrow is probably next winter's warmest day forecast to hit 5c, I'll pressure wash the underneath and the engine area to prepare for some rare work while I otherwise leave it to the care of five months of winter.
Should crank it while gauge is connected until stops climbing. 150-200 is weak if was highest availed reading. Audible Leakage to any real extent is loss of rings seating.
It’s VERY weak.. it should read no less than 300 psi.. If u left the nozzle in the tester and just took the pintle out.. that would explain why.. If u took everything out and used it, then the compression is very low..
The adapters for diesel compression testers all have a check valve to hold and show a proper reading. If you're just cranking into an empty injector, you'll never get the correct reading since your gauge will drop every time the exhaust valve opens. A hollow adapter is good for a leak down test though.
Have u any tractor history. Have u ran it under heavy load since u got it? Tractors, especially older ones are often used for meanail jobs and a good hard days work can often work wonders for compression
It's time for pride to stand aside again in the interest of honest mechanical academe The first time I tested compression was in the 70's on a mustang 5 liter or equivalent. Then I in 2008 I bought a set for diesel but could never get good results with it because it had no check-valve and all I could do was guess just how high the needle went in a split second. Haven't used it since, until the other day, when I did notice an L-shaped adapter which I figured must be for hard to reach places, the way that grease-gun L-adapters do. I decided to try it and lo and behold IT is the check valve. So it's back to compression testing the next time the weather lets up. I haven't run the engine much seeing that I don't even have reliable oil-pressure indication but every time I do anything at all the run improves. Just cleaning out the one injector that I gutted to make an adapter made a difference after reassembly and reinstallation. I expect deliveray of an injector test kit in early December. The engine sure seems to need work but that will be coming ANYWAY, once I decide yes/no on a 913. The main thing is that it revs to 3000 and nothing seems broken or bent, pops and farts don't phase me at this stage. It means I have a good core to either build or trade for a blown (maybe cooled) 913 good core to build (another thread I think).
3000 seems high. I would have thought 2500 max. At 3000rpm maybe you’re getting valve float
Just wanted to see if anythingh was gonna come loose The huffing and (little but loud loud) puffing is at most speeds, especially cold or accelerating. Back to the injector test gauge, that L-shaped adapter wasn't the check-valve after all. There's no documentaion and nothing on the net. Check-valves usually have an arrow on them but not Chinese ones I guess. I found it today, it's on the input end of the gauge hose and it was jammed wide open. Got to unjam it and exercised it and added a bit of oil. Tomorrow it's scene-I, take XXXIII
Should be a Schrader style valve, but high pressure. If yours turns out to be faulty, I should still have the part number for a replacement (the standard tire style with the spring breaks; I learned from experience)
If you happen to be able to dig it up without it taking too much of you time I'd appreciate the part number. The one that' in there resembles a bicycle valve but I'm pretty ignorant about all this. The little stub was stuck full-in, iI wiggled it loose without using much force, and then exercised it.
That'all she wrote! In fact the lowest one is only 125-150. The oil pressure switch was found disconnected and the light was on. I reconnected it and the light went out. This morning I swapped the switch out for a gauge and it shows 0. There IS oil circulation in the heads though, plenty of leaks in witness, but I figure the last owner ran out of oil pressure and continued operating anyway. With not enough heart to spray the cylinder walls the rings got totalled, hence no compression either. What's the gurus' take on this? I can't leave well enough alone, don't wanna become a reddish brown stain under it doing my first ever tractor split outside in winter either, so it looks like an in-frame fixer-upper including the oil pump
Just to sorta close this thread (I will be opening others), I found that light tapping with a 5 pound hammer all around for about 50 taps in all works quite well, got all of them disassembled and cleaned. Not one failed or got damaged.
Those Deutz cylinder barrels are quite hard, so maybe only the pistons are scuffed. I would pull the oilpan off it as it sits and check out the bottom end before you go much farther and evaluate
Absolutely! Gotta get eyes on the crank first. I can't micro it in there but I can do plastigauge plus a good visual for a looksee. If the crank is done for then there's no point in any in-frame, at least I don't see how I'd get the crank out without doing a split. Started a new thread under Tractors & backhoes: In-frame the deutz F6L912 in a DF dx-6.05
No I haven't, not much opprtunity until next spring. Thanks for the helpful intent. The guy I bought it from bought a complete succession (a farm I presume) because when I opened up the dash space it was full of hay, some feathers, and mouse droppings. Most of the cabin controls are like new, no paint wear, but the rubber carpet and seat are toast. The front fork has popped out of the right-side support hole. The digital atrocity passing for instrumentation is almost completely dead but allegedly showed over 4000 hours which I can neither duplicate nor swallow until I see the cylinder ridges. I 'suspect' the machine originally sold (probably in the Netherlands, see dealer decal) did a lot of some very specific work involving mostly the front PTO and/or 3-point with a lot of in-and-out with muddy boots but working few other controls.