Good afternoon, I've got some problems with a 200-5 S/N 14H-01368. Machine has had issue with the 5V system before. Stick came up threw cleaned bunch of wiring off and fried the MC before I purchased it. All was repaired, very roughly by previous owner and machine was put back into service, that was roughly 5 years ago. Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago, was running machine, all was well. Shut off for the evening, can to start up next morning and battery's were dead, which is unusual, so boosted but would not start. Just whirled, traced down the problem to the EC motor being quite hot and not cycling. Ordered new, before I put new on I checked voltage and I have nominal voltage in the motor plug, so 24.5ish voltages. My old motor had a tag on it for 6 volt, which seems to make sense, running off the 5v sensor system. Anyhow, I did try that motor, of course just hum and gets hot. So I opted for manual cable on it. Got that setup and the throttle sensor? ( Unsure what proper name is angle sensor maybe?), got that set so the voltage was roughly even on left and right terminals while at idle. Starts up, engine runs fine, but now stalls and falls flat on its face. Bunch of corroded wires later, new battery cables, tracing and checking. Had to jump a couple plugs, machine now runs and functions 80% but my swing, left and right, along with tracking ahead and back is happening under full stroke. When I unplug the solenoid in the back door next to the pump, (one closest to engine) I can hear my pump de-stroke, if I switch that plug to the opposite solenoid, so the one closest the door, the opposite pump strokes up full. Now the other pig tail does nothing when I plug into either solenoid. They both have 24V at all times. Also to note my solenoid up on the valve bank, one close to the swing motor is hot, just at an idle. No others are. I understand that to control those solenoids the MC grounds that 24v going to the pigtail, I have continuity checked the Blue wire with Gr strip all way back to plug on the MC. I do not have con to ground with MC unplugged but as soon as I plug in I get Continuity from the BLU with GRN strip to ground. That pin runs up through the controller threw the second row on resistors, I do not see any burnt or discoloration anywheres on it. I'd like to know if you have any info about testing the MC itself. Thank you, any help is appreciated.
Welcome to HEF Fak . Are the solenoids that are circled in the screenshot below, the same solenoids that you were unplugging and swapping harness plugs ? .
Yes that's correct, I've been at it since I posted and just called it a night. But think I'm a bit closer to the problem. I popped the cover off the MC, nothing obvious burnt up in there, so just for ***** I threw the old burnt one on and plug it in. First thing it does is pop the 10amp solenoid fuse. So I check CON to Ground and I've got 130ohm, Soon as I turn the key to on. So I start tracing and pulling wires, the 10(maybe 12) AWG white wire that comes from the 60 amp fuse on the switch side of the main battery power switch. Feeds the alternator, then doubles back to the cab, plugs into a 2 flat pin connector. Then branches off and puts power to the fuse panel in about 4 different places., feeding around half a dozen fuses. So started pulling fuses until my resistance went to open limit. What do you know it's the #6 fuse for Swing Box. That's as far as I got for this evening, the mosquitos have just about got me on the edge of anaemic lol.... I'm hoping this isn't another dead end but it's quite difficult to chase without a schematic. The only one I can wrangle up is for a 200-5zx and I believe mine is closer to a -2 on the schematics? That picture you sent is exactly what mine looks like and I haven't been able to find that anywhere. I know that's a lot to digest, I appreciate the reply. Thank you,
I believe fuse #6 is for the SWitch Box. 14H sn# prefix indicates machine was made for the Japanese market not North America. That said, info is more difficult to find. Check your messages.
Maybe @LACHAU can help with an electrical schematic for your Japanese market Hitachi EX200-5 (sn# prefix 14H ) .
You're exactly right on that... Was looking at things for too long yesterday lol couldn't for the life of me figure out what more could be electrical in the *swing box*. I'll pull the dash up this morning and see if I can find a problem, thanks again.
Ok so have pulled the dash. Isolated the *Short* to ground on the 20 pin plug in for the switch box. The yellow and green wire that feeds it from the fuse panel branches to 3 before it ties into the plug. I have disconnected them before the plug and found that I have no CON to GrD in the YG wire on far left of that plug. (Note the plug must be inserted into the Switch box for CON to Grd) The remaining two YG wires are stacked on the plug in pin 2 and pin 12. (Assuming far left pin is #1 with plug facing you and tab at the top) My resistance is coming from those two wires. From what I can make of the schematic that is main power for the cluster and also feeds a converter? Which I'm assuming runs your 24v down to 5 for the low volt system. Can't seem to locate the converter on the board. I also took a whole dash unit from a 230lc which everything appears to be identical and plugged it in with same results. Now am I chasing a dragon with no tail here or am I just that unlucky to have another dash with the same problem. I can't imagine CON to ground being a good thing in that circuit especially @ 130ohm. Also I think that would cause my issue with the swing solenoid staying wide open on the control valve... Which would in turn call for the pilot pressure down by the pump to turn on? Thanks ahead for any insight...
Errrr pump the breaks for a second here. Just flipped my donor dash over and noticed it had Chinese symbols on it. It must be the original from this machine. My donor does not run and came with the machine l. So someone has already done this swap. So looks like a need atleast a dash that works, so I can see if any of the wire repairs I have done may have cured the problem. If anyone knows where that converter is on the board or the *main power supply* it's called in the schematic that'd be great. Calls for R1A but can't find that anywhere on the board. Thanks again...
In your post # 1 you said , “ Also to note my solenoid up on the valve bank, one close to the swing motor is hot, just at an idle. No others are.” Looking at the screenshot below which solenoid of the 5 solenoids on the manifold block is getting hot ?
Far left with that view. Hose #22 feeds from it.
I stripped the switch box today, found a diode blown..same in each of my switch boxes. Swapped with another and put switch box back into place. Minus the two YG wires, pin 2 and 12. In the 200-5 schematics (I'll post them) they run into *main power* and seems to show nominal going in and 5v coming out. With those two unhooked and the last YG wire hooked machine will run and function, and the solenoids are not engaged all the time. Swing is slow and track is slow on left I believe.... Idler ahead. I'd have to double check that. But as usual if I curl the bucket or run some other function it will activate the second pump and everything runs fine. So my thoughts are I'm going to round up a 24v - 5v step down and put two diodes on the 24v side just like it shows in the schematic. Hopefully that will work. In the mean time I can atleast hobble it around a bit without burning things up. I'll post an update once I get it rigged up. Side note I'm thinking the cause of this whole problem is the window was broke out of this machine long ago, it used to have a grapple and feed a chipper, so windows didn't last long. When it was replaced it was a shotty install and never sealed right, floor was usually damp on right foot after a hard rain and parked the wrong way. It's been raining harder then heck here the past couple weeks on and off. This machine would 50% of the time not engage the opposite pump but after 5-10 minutes would come out of it. Things must have warmed up enough in that switch box to work. Must have finally gave up,
Hose #22 leaves the port at the “power boost“ solenoid and terminates at the top of the system main relief valve temporarily raising the pressure by approximately 6-700 psi. Power boost is activated by the button on top of the right hand side joystick. Maybe the button is stuck down.
I don't have that button anymore there was suregrip controls installed and wired for aux solenoids under the air breather compartment. Those have been unhooked just to eliminate any shorts.. did all the 200-5's have that button? Maybe the wires were tied together or something foolish. I did fix around a dozen wires as well. Corroded plugs, flat spots, cracks in casings ect.
Yes , Deere 200LC and the Hitachi EX200-5 ‘s had power boost on the right side joystick. There was also an optional right hand 3 button joystick to run auxiliaries plus bower boost. Does your suregrip have a trigger switch ? sometimes the power boost was wired into that.
Evening DD, I've still got no luck with this this thing. I think I found the power boost wires, mine are white with brown hatches, they are not hooked to anything. I have two pieces under the switch dash that are very hot. I can't seem to make them line up with my schematic so im unsure what they are. I'll attach some pictures. I can make them cold if I unplug the yellow and YG wires under the switch board attached to pins 2 and 12.. Also when I plug those in my load dump relay clicks on. If I unplug or swap the load dump relay it makes no difference. The coil on the valve bank you had circled in red is still hot and engaged but my solenoid down by my pump is not on constantly now. Swing is slow, and one track is slow, track speed picks up if I use another function.
These are the yellow and green I'm talking about. To the left of the red line makes no difference and I do not have continuity to ground with left of red line plugged in only. If I plug the two wires in to the right of the red line then, those two blocks under the switch dash get hot, my solenoid engages on valve bank and I have con to ground @ 170ohms. I can't make sense of the schematic because colour coding only seems to match half of the time.
Picture
Are these the 2 pieces under the switch dash you are referring to that are getting hot ? See highlights in screenshot below. .
Yes those are them, I see my pictures didn't upload I'll try again. But both of those are real hot the the touch.
Picture
Picture
The Deere 200LC manual lists them as , The top block is R4—Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Resistor (150 ohms) . The bottom block is R5—Fuel Gauge Resistor (220 ohms).
Hmm... I did replace the red lead for the temp sensor up top, about 12 O'clock center right behind the fan shroud. It was flattened out. Maybe I try and unhook temp sensor ? And fuel sensor see if that makes any difference? Where can I find a schematic for 200LC?
I’m not sure I would get too excited about the gauge resistors getting hot. Check your messages.
Can you verify hose # 22 terminates at the top of the main relief valve on your machine. It’s possible the order of the solenoids in the screenshot is incorrect.
It does yes. From solenoid #1 (hose 22 runs from) wiring is as follows #1 Grn & GrnWhite stripe #2 Grn red stripe & Grn Blk stripe #3 Brw yellow stripe & Brw Blk stripe #4 Brw white strip & brw red stripe #5 Blue White stripe & blue yellow stripe
I understand what you’re saying now ,is it physically possible the way the harness is laid out that some of the (5) identical solenoid wire harness plugs are installed in an incorrect order on the machine ? Did you ever investigate trying to buy the Troubleshooting tech manual for this Japanese market Hitachi machine ?
Huh. I've run a couple 200s, never noticed a "power boost". Late 90s, early 2000s machines.
I don't think the pigtails are plugged in to the wrong ones, they lay pretty well as they are. It'd look obvious (I think) if you were to mix one up. I'll try and double check tomorrow. I did make some headway however. I'll try not to drag this on, in hopes someone here can pick up on something with the info I lay out. With the 200lc schematic things started to make a little bit more sense. Did some testing and those resistors I was talking about getting hot, one of them was down 100ohms from spec. I swapped with one good from the donor. But noted the same one was bad on that switch dash. (The temperature gauge one, Orange and Grey) Once I put that in they ran noticeably cooler, then I did a couple tests on the temp sensor. Found it to be OLimit, and also had CON with the green and yellowstripe wire coming from the alternator plug. So I un-did the temp sensor wire. Got down to the plug-in under the switch dash and the schematic lost me again. From what I gathered I was not supposed to have continuity between those two wires, I also had continuity in a different set of wires under the switch board, one was for *memory* power and the other was the ground for the temp sensor. I un hooked memory power and when I did the machine worked ok. A little fast on the swing and track but manageable. I also regained hi low track selection. Ran it for about an hour and shut it off to go grab something. Hopped back in an hour later and back to the same old story, wildly fast swing and tracking , bucket curl.. hopefully someone can make some sense of that mess I just blurted out. .
Is there a way to get binary codes for the MC? Is that red light supposed to flash constantly? I thought I had read somewhere that it was but I feel like when it was work well it wasn't blinking... Could be making that up though..
Under normal circumstances the red power light on the EC and the PVC should be flashing about once per second.
Mine is not a two part unit, it's all in one.
That’s true…sorry about the # of controllers. If you are talking about accessing service codes in the MC : You can check for codes using the red light on the MC behind the seat. See the link to an older thread below. Post #14 shows how to enable the self diagnostic which sets a light flash sequence, (if there are any codes). HeavyEquipmentForums . . if there are any codes ,the light on the MC will blink in a pattern of long and or short sequence.
Excellent thank you. I'll try that tomorrow,
It is a sneaky bugger, that switch. On the older units it is not a physical switch you can see, but a soft spot in the top of the right handle, with a switch under the soft spot.