There is a small groove starting to show. Is that acceptable or should I be looking to replace? Thanks
those bearings usually do not exhibit radial lay like that. They get some end play and that is normal. You could change out the cartridge before it lunches completely. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com...embly-00-01-59l-dodge-cummins-auto-trans.aspx
Need a better view, if your talking the groove at compressor wheel, that's factory. There will be radial runout but that is also controlled by oil psi-if compressor wheel is not interfering with compressor housing should be fine.
If the compressor wheel is starting to wear into the housing then I'd look into replacing it.
Thanks guys for this. It spins ok but if I put any pressure with my thumb the fins will grab a bit . If that’s normal I’ll leave it for now. I put new +50 hp injectors into it a couple days ago which has given the truck a little more pep. Does anyone make an upgraded turbo that would increase my boost that’s reasonably priced? I’m not interested in 600 - 800 hp ones just something that’s one step up from the Holset HX 35
Sure it's probably getting a little tired, imo I don't see any issues at this point. Worth checking from time to time. Others might see it differently.
All it’ll take is 1 good grab and she’ll gernade.. It’s too late to save that wheel anyway, so just replace the turbo as a unit.. not just the cartridge and hope they don’t gig u on the core charge.. I know getting a cartridge is hundreds of dollars cheaper BUT, the aluminum is already peeled up.. Unless u wanna get a flapper disk and get the aluminum straightened out.. get a turbo.. The assy number should be on a tag on the turbo.. Good luck.
Did you use something to clean/wipe around the front side of that housing at the step? Not doubting the pump guy but I don't see it, the compressor wheel should show.
I do see it on the wheel.. That’s why I said I hope they don’t gig him on the core charge..
Your correct pump guy, I missed it. I expanded the photo and sure enough.
I'm not seeing much other than some carbon tracing on the impeller. I usually look for the rolled edge on the impeller blade ends or scratching on the housing under the impeller blades. Are you guys using the trifocals or am I blind?
I saw it right off. That's definitely unusual, those turbos usually last longer than everything else.
After a real long re-look- I'm at a stalemate, inconclusive. I'm not seeing what I really should see to determine it defective. I have spent a half hour looking at it expanded view, I've changed out my fare share of turbos through the years. This one bugs me, a vid would help.
To me it almost looks like the middle of each vane has just started catching the housing. Looks like a little bit of wear on the vanes in the middle. Could be carbon buildup too for all I know though.
Thanks guys for your input. It is suppose to warm up to freezing tomorrow ( 32F/0C ) so Ill open it back up and try a video. Talked to an outfit up in Calgary today ( Alamo Industies ) and he said they could rebuild/upgrade the turbo with more capacity. He should get back to me in a day or so.
Pulled the turbo. Alamo in Calgary said they could upsize the compressor wheel to 60mm from 52mm. Not sure on the turbine side. Once it gets to them they will check it then order parts. Looking forward to been able to pull my 34’ tilt deck up a bit of an incline.
Adding too much power to a 21 year old truck can be catastrophic. You will be going from 20 plus PSI on the boost to 30 plus PSI which if not careful can hit 35 PSI taking the head studs with it. Don't know what else you have done with the truck or mileage, on the bright side more power lower EGT's. Hope you got a boost gauge.
Have you ever considered that in simple terms rather than try to squeeze a quart out of a pint pot you really need to upsize.? In other words, is your *** too small.?
Spud Monkey, Nige….. I hope I haven’t went to far with this. My hope was to increase power a bit but not way too much. The motor was fully rebuilt by my mechanic friend 25,000 kilometres ago so it would be close to stock power but it still a pain pulling my trailer with it. I will make sure everything ( fuel, air, boost ) is balanced properly. I do have another truck that’s bigger but it could use some work to be usable for heavy pulling. It’s not registered yet but I hope further down the road to have it up and running. No rush. I appreciate both your concern, thanks. Here’s a picture of the International that has a big rear end, six speed with a three speed splitter box. I have driven a 15 speed in a semi but this one is a challenge for me to shift. No synchro’s . This truck has a 12 valve 5.9 Cummings that was also rebuilt.
Just go get an aftermarket Exhaust Gas Temperature set-up.. AND a boost gauge.. Not terribly hard to install AND you’ll KNOW what your engine is doing.. (and if u get them, I know a guy that can tell u how to crank some ponies outta that dog..w/o melting your pistons down..)
I really like the turbos off of the 05 or so common rails. He351's, they spool great but not a simple bolt on. Down pipe and new intercooler pipe from turbo. I've also put a 60 mm wheel in a hx35 which is what I'm guessing you have. works good also. Can you grab the nut on the compressor and wiggle it up and down or in and out? Is this a 12 or 24 valve?
Thanks thepumpguysc. I'll start looking for the pyrometer and boost gauge.
gwhammy. I could wiggle it up and down, not in and out. 24 valve.
Glad it was rebuilt, though I would look into some ARP head studs in the middle of this if they didn't include it on the rebuild. Even new Cummins back in the 5.9 days would be looking towards some aftermarket studs for insurance when increasing boost.
you can run 35 PSI all day long on a stock build. once you touch 40, it gets dicey. My 96 12V made 35 PSI on the stock turbo after adding a boost elbow and fuel plate and injectors and governor springs and down the slippery slope we went. What it likes to eat after that is the automatic transmissions, or stock clutch parts, or the 5th gear nut on the manual transmission if you dare to tow in 5th. That engine has 240K on it and is going into a suburban build. My 2007 is a stock build plus cam, and the smarty touch. That also does 35 PSI with a stock turbo. I have stayed off the slope, thanks to that camshaft. It cooled the EGT's enough to make me happy. The next move would be studs and twins. They are amazing for keeping the EGT under control.
Update. Alamo inspected turbo and found hairline crack on compressor housing so they brought in a new one and rebuilt the unit. I then installed a Fass fuel filter/lift pump and Edge Attitude CTS3 with tuner. Got everything hooked up except for trans temp sender witch I'll get to when I change tranny oil. It has 5 power settings. I will leave it in 1 for everyday and 2 for towing the trailer. I tried 5 for a couple seconds on the highway and let off. Don't want to break anything. Im planning on picking up around 16- 4' by 8' bails of straw later this week. Should be over 20,000lbs gross and a good test.
If that's a 01 automatic I believe it had a hy35 on it. Those have a 9cm exhaust housing on them which spool really great. They do choke on the upper end thou. I've towed a lot with one just watch the exhaust temp. I don't know what you are wanting but there are upgrades for that turbo to put a bigger exhaust wheel in it with the same size housing to help free up the exhaust. Have you made it this far with the stock lift pump without having a vp injection pump go bad?
gwhammy, Its a manual 5 speed. Yes your right on the HX35 Holset. i had the rebuilders upsize it. The VP-44 is the original. I'l keep running it for now. The hottest EGT I've seen so far would be around 1350 degrees going up steep hill under load with loaded trailer. Just a few seconds at that temp. I would back off and downshift to lower temp. Thanks for this.