Hello, I'm new to this forum. I dont knowi I'm posting in the correct spot. I have a 2001 LB75B backhoe. I was using it one day and when I finished I shut it off. Went the next day to try and start it and it does nothing. No click or anything. I have replaced the starter, battery, battery cables and clamps and even bought a new ignition switch. Found out it still didn't start with the new ignition switch so I left the old one on it. I also replaced a few relay switches inside the engine compartment. I don't know what else it could be unless there is a fuse somewhere else. I checked all the fuses inside the cabin. None are blown. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
We'll Wew I can at least get a little bit of a click sound. Sounds like it's coming from a relay switch. I have plenty of voltage going to the starter. When the ignition switch is turned on the white wire going to the solenoid has plenty of voltage but there is till no power transferring to the lug in the starter itself. Could it be a bad solenoid. I bought the start brand new. I ran a jumper wire from the hot post on the solenoid to the main lug on the starter and it tried to turn over so I'm guessing it has to be the solenoid, but I'm wondering if it is something else not allowing the solenoid to function properly. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Is the shuttle in neutral ?
Yeah I made sure the shuttle and the shifter is in Neutral.
I just tested the relay that was clicking and it seems to be ok. I did a continuity test on it.
neutral safety switch ?
Is that the plug harness underneath the forward and reverse lever on the column?
Or is it an actual switch located somewhere?
I'm guessing the neutral safety switch maybe on the side of the transmission. I think I remember reading that somewhere.
Do you have a trans cut out switch on the gear shifter and another one on the loader control? One of them may be stuck or shorted?
I don't have one on the shifter forward and reverse but there is a button on the loader control.
Yeah there isnt one on the shuttle just loader control and 4 speed gear shifter
There is a button on the speed shifter for the gears of that's the one you were talking about. I think that allows you to cut out the transmission or swap gears. It's my dad's backhoe and I'm trying to fix it for him so I'm not as familiar with it. I do think that is what the button the gear shifter is for.
Those buttons could stick causing a no start?
I will see if I can try and take them apart and look at the buttons switches. Thanks. I have been trying to find online where the neutral safety switch is located exactly so I could try and bypass it also just to see if that could be the problem but there is hardly no information online about that at all. I even tried pulling one up to purchase just in case that is the problem and I can't even find a picture for that model. It must be a dealer specific item.
Does your tractor have the ground disconnect switch in the engine compartment? If it does try bypassing that with a jumper.
Yeas it does have the disconnect. I checked it with a volt meter and it does have voltage on both sides of the disconnect and at the starter. I disconnected it to make sure it did disconnect and it did. So the disconnect is working properly. Thanks
keithW1117, I just tried to start my NH675E tractor...It will start if the trans disconnect is pressed...that is the button on the loader control that toxic was referring too.. I would think it would be the same on your NH, but I could be wrong.
keithW1117, You should not have power on both sides of the disconnect if it is the ground disconnect, like mine is. The disconnect that NH575E is talking about is a main disconnect that disconnects the ground terminal directly from the battery.
Swetz, Yeah this is a main ground disconnect coming from the battery going to the starter. When connected it goes to the starter for the ground and when I turn it it breaks that ground to the battery. When I disconnect it it or turn it is does like it is supposed to and breaks the ground and then it doesn't allow voltage through. It's working as it should. So the loader control isn't the front bucket control with the button but your talking about the 1-4 gear shifter correct?
keithW1117, I was talking about the trans disconnect button on the shifter and loader controls. I pressed mine, and the tractor still started. I do not think this is your problem. I think it is more probable that the neutral safety switch or something in that part of the wiring that is the problem. do you have a wiring diagram for your machine? If so, I would trace out the start circuit, then test.
You may have answered your own question in post #2. You said that there is good voltage to the positive post on the starter. Also that there is power to the solenoid from the ignition switch. You either have a faulty solenoid switch or there is not enough amperage in the battery to spin the starter. Is there a voltage drop at the pos. starter post when you have the starter engaged ?
Swetz- yeah, I don't have anything on the backhoe. My dad said they gave him a operator manual for it when he bought it but he said all that shows is the basic operator function of the backhoe.
Tinkerer- I will have to get my son or my wife out there to help me turn it over while I check but the last time my son turned it over for me to test it, I don't think the voltage dropped while he was turning the key. If I remember right the voltage stayed the same.
The reason I was thinking it maybe something other than the starter is when I turn the ignition switch there is a click coming from a relay switch and there is no click on the solenoid. So I'm thinking the power telling the solenoid to power up is not being transferred. I don't know maybe wrong thinking like that but I will try and see if I can find the neutral safety switch also. How many amps should be going to the starter so I could test that and see if the amperage is too low. I have a car connected to the battery with jumper cables thinking I may boost the battery if there was a voltage or amperage issue. When the car was connected it was around 13.2 volts on the meter. Took the cables off and the backhoe has 12.6 volts which should be plenty I would think.
The ability to read voltage and pass current are two different things. A poor contact can read full voltage with no load but open when you apply a current load. Try connecting your volt meter to the positive terminal of the starter and the starter side of the ground contact on the ground disconnect. Turn the starter switch to the start position and see if the voltage reading remains the same. If it goes below 9 volts you have a poor power or ground connection somewhere. If it remains a full 12V+ reading then the signal to engage the solenoid is open somewhere.
Thanks NH575E- It stayed the same with 12.6 volts when I checked it a couple of days ago when my son turned the key for me. I did try and see if the voltage would change letting me know it was trying something but the voltages stay the same. Even on the white ignition wire going to the starter stayed the same so I knew there was steady voltage going to the starter and solenoid.
Are all the connections are clean and tight ? If they are and you apply if you apply 12 volts directly to the small terminal on the solenoid then the starter should (must) turn. If it doesn't you have a starter problem. Is there any chance the motor is locked up ?
Yeah they are all brand new cables with brand new cable ends. I ran a jumper for a quick second from the hot post on the starter solenoid to the main post on the starter and it tried to crank. I didn't do it long cause I was afraid of it blowing something else. All the connections are tight. I just had a crank issue with a farm tractor where the ground was ground to the engine but wasn't getting a goo enough ground so I ran the ground from the battery straight to the starter and made sure all the connections were right and that fixed the problem on the farm tractor.
It tried to crank ? It should have spun it like normal. Sounds like a starter issue. If you have access to a starter ammeter, you should be in the 250 amp range when the starter is engaged. There is an outside chance the hydraulic pump is in a bind for some reason.
Yeah i didn't leave it on long enough to actually try and crank. It did spin the starter over enough for me to know it engages. I was just scared of it blowing something. It also did turn the engine for that quick second it did it.
That indicates a defective solenoid.
That was a brand new starter and solenoid but I guess they can be bad brand new also. I may just have to buy a new solenoid and try it. I've never septated a solenoid from a starter I have always just replaced them both because usually it's an older starter as well, is it a big job to replace one as far as any kind of springs or issues to look out for when changing.
Are you near anyone that can test it for you ? I would do that before I did anything else. Changing solenoids is quite easy to do but may (probably) void any warranty on the new starter.
If the starter engaged when you jumped power to the exciter connection at the solenoid the solenoid and starter are okay. Something is open between the switch and solenoid. I haven't read through the entire thread. I guess it has been asked if you have the forward/reverse lever in neutral? If the forward/reverse selector is in neutral I would try cleaning the contacts on the starter relay or throw a new relay at it.