Ran backhoe last snow and made through. During storm, twice, when stopping to speak with crew members, backhoe would not go forward or reverse. After playing around and shaking bucket/snow blade, it kicked back in. This happened twice during snow storm. Parked for two days, now I am getting no forward or reserve and shaking blade does nothing as it had before. Tires act like they want to go (slight movement) forward and back but cannot and do not with low rpm's or high. Lifted front end and put in 4x4, still nothing. Can spin front tires by hand. And axle turns 1/4 turn by hand before stopping. Park brake shows on wether button is clicked over or not when starting up tractor. Anyone dealt with this issue and have some advice? Check tranny fluid and was low. Filled up and run till good and warm and still nothing.
With park brake off, if light is still on, try to push the tractor back and forth with the loader bucket to check if the park brake is actually holding. If is actually activated with the switch off then you may just have a corroded connector under the tractor where it connects to the park brake release solenoid.
It could be a short in the clutch disconnect switch on loader control. I have a 2001 310SG and had a clutch disconnect added in the rear floor (like a dimmer switch) that malfunctioned. I thought the trans went out no forward or reverse. It rolled freely I could move it with the rear bucket. Luckily it was a bad switch and not very expensive to fix. I don't know if this will help you.
The brake does not seem to be holding and here's why (although I could be unaware of a safety brake feature coming into play.) If I lift rear end off ground and throw into two wheel drive, tires move between gears and with increasing speed with rpm's. Once I throw into 4 wheel drive with front, rear, or both off ground I have no movement at all. Again, I can hand turn front and rear tires by hand despite not going when in forward or reverse. Hand turning one front tires gives me reverse movement on other front tire. On my machine, I have gear shifter on left hand side - up and down for forward and reverse with twist for gear shift. Clutch button on loader control and is not used, obviously, due to the aforementioned. Checked buttons for park brake, fuses and relays in dash, and all show continuity. Is there anything I am missing here? Thank you all for your responses!
BJS, just to clarify your symptoms. With rear wheels off the ground forward, reverse and all gears are working but tractor will not move when 4 wheel drive is selected. Is this correct?
Deon, I went back out to mess with this some more this evening as I'm worried about down time I'm looking at with this. With all four wheels in air, gears work and will speed up but it does seem to go slower. This works in air with 2 and 4 wheel drive going. When placed back on ground, tractor acts like it wants to go but stops with like 1/16 of a wheel turn forward and backwards. In speaking with a few of the local farm boys, I've heard them say maybe it's a solenoid, maybe electronic clutch isn't letting go (but that doesn't make sense as wheels spin in air), and that hydraulic link or some short in line switch may not be pumping enough flow through. After thinking about it, the flow make sense if linkage is off or a valve will not open as it would not have enough power to move all 16,000 pounds, but would show movement with no weight. Any suggestions to further diagnosis before I have to spend money with a dealer mechanic? I also went ahead and pushed backhoe along with excavator and it takes quite a bit of pressure than I would think needs if in gear or neutral, but does push. I'm unsure if hydraulics are all tied together or if different systems with shut offs, etc because rest of hydraulics are working great.
Update: Ended up calling in the mechanic from an authorized dealer and after about 5 hours he was able to find a bad electrical problem after tracing electrical wiring down. I was not given the specifics (job security, I suppose) but it took taking apart dash, steering column, shifters, floor panels and all to completely test all connections step by step. I am sure this would have taken me a week or more to with any confidence so I am glad to have had the help and I am not having to rebuild anything! Thanks to those who had input and hope this helps someone else.
Glad to hear your going again. Unfortunately the electronics that make these machines nicer to operate make them less reliable and more difficult to repair. I know a guy that got a new case 580 3 years ago and it has been going into neutral after using it for a few hours every time he took it out. The dealer sent a tech guy up about 5 times under warranty with new solenoids each time. It took 3 years and a new dealer to finally solve the problem. There was a connector that was not completely snapped together all this time.
Glad you got it fixed. I usually try to fix them myself or get a mechance buddy to help. Usually in the end I am better off getting the dealer to fix it anyway. It sucks paying the dealer service rate but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet.