My main hydraulic pump bit the dust. I have removed the pump and taken it to my local hydraulic shop. They told me that it had suffered a catastrophic failure and is unable to be rebuilt. A new one from Deere is $8-9K. They quoted me a reman for $6K with a warranty. Where could I possibly find a used one that I could have rebuilt? Also, I have found pumps online priced from $900-$4000 but I don't know if they would be warrantied or if I can trust the venders (it appears they would be coming from China). My shop also told me that I needed to flush the system to remove any metal that could have been left behind from the failure. What is the best way to flush this system? (several oil and filter changes maybe?)
It is not a simple as doing just that. All of the oil in the system has to be removed and replaced with clean oil. You should start by draining and flushing the reservoir (tank). That will prevent dirty oil from getting in the pump. You will need a lot of new (or clean) oil available to keep the hydraulic tank full as you flush each cylinder. The engine should be run only long enough to quickly flush each cylinder. Having someone help you will cut down on the run time of the motor. The 410G service manual should have the procedure in it. If not, do a forum search. Here is link to one of several different threads about it. HeavyEquipmentForums
I plan to drain as much fluid as possible from the cylinders and hoses (with air) with the machine off. Also will flush and clean tank while it is empty. Then install the new pump and connect pump hoses and fill my tank. My plan then was to try to use the new pump to push new fluid thru the various hoses and reconnect one at the time until the system is refilled. I know I will have to keep the tank full while I do this. Once the system is refilled, and new filter installed, run the system for x? amount of time and drain the tank and refill, install a new filter, and run again. Do this couple more times. I know it's a lot of fluid, but I want to be comfortable with the final outcome (no more 6k pump replacements!). Is this a feasible way to flush this system? Can I use a cheaper ISO46 fluid for this cleaning process and do a final fill with HY-Guard? Will I have a problem with air in the system if I do it this way? (I was planning to reconnect the cylinders and push fluid thru them as I flushed the hoses)
Shouldn’t have a problem doing it that way. Yes i would use a TS cheap hydraulic fluid for first flush. Just be damn sure you don’t run out of fluid, as it’s going to go fast. Don’t want to run expensive pump dry, at all.
Thanks to Tinkerer and HarleyHappy for your input. I have my new (reman) pump. I have drained the tank and flushed (washed and rinsed it with industrial Dawn detergent 10 separate times and then flushed, flushed, flushed with water hose. I have been flushing the water in to 5 gallon buckets and checking with a magnet. I feel good about the micro metal that may have been in the tank, but I don't want to have a larger piece that may have gotten lodged behind something in the tank get into my new pump. Could I install a piece of medium strainer mesh in the large suction line from the tank to the pump to intercept any rogue piece of metal that may not have been flushed out? (I know I would have to drain and check this strainer at times) Would filling with new fluid and running a filter cart help with any possible left over metal that may be left in the tank? The last few flushes have been clean but I don't want to take any chances of something left behind.
Installing a screen in the suction hose sounds risky. I think I’d try and leave a magnet or two in the bottom of the tank. Don‘t forget to flush the hydraulic oil cooler. I believe the cooler returns directly to tank.
Thanks Diesel Dave. I was thinking the screen may be too much restriction. If I go with magnets, what kind and size would you recommend? Would I put them in the tank or could I put them under the bottom on the outside of the tank? I have several large old speaker magnets that would not fit in the tank but I could attach them under the flat bottom of the tank. Also, would the magnetic field that this would create cause any problem with mechanics or electrical system? I wouldn't think so.
I can’t see the magnets creating any interference issues. . As a strength test, install a speaker magnet on a 1/8“ steel plate and check how much magnetic strength is felt on the other side. If the speaker magnets don’t pan out , I have no recommendations per magnets other than being flat and will fit in the tank.
Thanks DD. I'll give that a try. I'm still open to other suggestions. This forum has given me a wealth of knowledge. Thanks again.
You can get neodymium magnets on Amazon that I would consider putting on the drain plug and theoretically you could just drop them in the tank, leaving them indefinitely. I can’t believe your return could upset metal around those magnets. Depending on what went on your pump, it may not be magnetized.
I'm finally installing the new hydraulic pump on my 410g. I know i need to fill the pump before it runs. With the pump bolted on I filled the tank return port before I hooked up that hose. I have connected the large suction line. I figured it would fill that section of the pump when I fill the reservoir. Is there any other place/plug on the pump that needs filling before I turn the motor over? I thought I would disconnect the injector pump electrical connector so I could turn the engine over without it firing up. Will that suction supply fill the pump sufficiently while I'm cranking the engine? The other hoses have been connected also. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.