Just bought truck and it runs rough has a bit of blow by and has low oil issue. I know these have a history of bad pistons. Anyway to confirm before pulling engine. Does cab need to come off to pull engine??
One of my sons is a full-time mechanic. His first boss is a master tech with all kinds of experience and certificates. He's done excellent work for us. He won't work on a 6.4 at all. Too many returns. He advises customers to go trade it in at a Ford stealer. His second boss loves working on 6.4s, and when I asked him why he said they always come back and spend more. This was just one of the ways he was dishonest, and my son quit. FYI and I wish I could tell you better news.
Best candidate for 12 valve cummins there ever was. I'm doing one now.
I've always wanted to try a c7 cat and a fuller 10 speed in one but so far haven't figured out how to make the wiring all talk to each other more ideas then time I guess.
C7 had to be about the worst engine Cat ever made. Use an 8.3 if you absolutely need big cubes but a 5.9 is fine.
Currently swapping a 24 valve into mine.
I couldn’t possibly agree more. We had several C7s in service trucks and every single one was garbage. They were no where near as reliable as the 3126 engine they replaced.
Ok if it happens I'll find a 3126 just can't be a ***-a-part much to Truckshops dismay
Yeah, Step 1 remove cab.
Ford is closing the Superduty order board for MY22 on April 1st. MY23 orders may not begin until September.
At night when it's really windy in Texas and sleep is elusive, I dream of dropping an 855 BIG CAM in a Super Duty. It would only require a new frame, lower cabin, hood, and drivetrain. I guess I could start with an F650 to save some time.
Warmed up 12 valve works really great with the 5r110. I've got a 06 one ton with 4.10 gears and a decent running 12 valve. Gross 35,000 a lot with it and pulls it great. Doing a 08 I bought with sick 6.4 and putting a fresh 12 valve in it. Under 100,000 mile truck, had a new 5r110 in it. This one should last me out for work truck. Should be around 450 to 500 horse with the combo I used. It can be done without taking the cab off, hardest part is getting that mess of parts out. It's amazing how well a cummins fits in them.
How do you control the 5R110? Last I heard, Furd kept all its TCM code proprietary, and it's a complex shifter prone to grenading if not exactly controlled. Do you run the Furd PCM and it accepts ECM signals from the Cummins? I do like the 5R110. We have one 6.0 in the fleet. It's been reliable. Stud/delete and no tune. All the rest of our trucks are 7.3 psd or idi. We drop ZF5s into the IDIs.
There are a few programmers out. The 06 has been programmed when it was put together. It could work a little better but I've learned to work around some of the odd stuff with the throttle. The only think I would like to work better is for it to shift sooner and lock up quicker when loaded. The 12 valve cummins seems to work better if it's kind of lugged. But all in all I'm happy with it. Once locked in overdrive it pulls 35,000 gross fairly well and that's asking a lot I feel. I don't have the 08 running yet, hopefully soon. It's a shame what ford did with the 6.0 and the 6.4. The 06 I bought had cracked heads but ran great. The 6.4 truck had 93,000 miles when a turbo let go and ran parts threw the motor. I would run either motor if they were dependable but I can swap a 12 valve for the same money or less than fixing either motor.
Our new F 600 has the 7.3 gas. They went back to in block cam and push rods. Seems to have loads of power, but she likes her gas.
We have a few in pickups that are pretty well maxed getting between 10 and 12
I'd like to drop that new 444 gas crate motor in a CVPI Send money please....
So any ideas how to ensure it's piston? It has blow by out the breather and exhaust. Assuming it is piston Im thinking to simply check temp of exhaust manifold to narrow it down to which side. Is it possible to get cylinder head off without removing cab? Looks like oil pan will come off. This way I can do this in frame. Then sell this truck!
Compression test? I guess the piston can crack in half on them. If you mess around with the glow plugs, be careful I guess they can give you quite a zap.
Compression test? I guess the piston can crack in half on them. If you mess around with the glow plugs, be careful I guess they can give you quite a zap.
That's the 3rd time I had a double post since the update
I've been told it's about the same time taking the cab off and digging in from the front. It's just a lot easier with the cab off.
I think you can get the glow plugs out in the wheel well, and do a compression test. I've seen the cabs off them at the dealer. Mind you they have a hoist to make it easier
Sell that POS as is and save yourself alot of heartache and expense. My SIL had a 07 model and was constant working on that engine.......it was tore down more than it ran.
I know this guy is a little controversial but I find him informative and agree mostly with his major points. I think he just gave up on 6.4s, they are becoming orphans.
I've seen them go 300,000 without a problem but it's rare. My opinion would be to abandon it. Friend of mine just had the turbos go out 3000 dollars for them.
Snap-On diagnostic tools can do a cylinder contribution test on a 6.4
I learned a lot from that guy a few years ago. He talks too much but there's good content there too. His 7.3 tips are spot on. Diesel Tech Ron was even better, RIP. Wear your seat belt. My master tech buddy won't work on any 6.4 anymore.
Your 6.0 was overheated. You can bet that the oil filter pedestal was melted in the housing too, which is the first thing you look for when evaluating a 6.0 (the second thing is bulging expansion tank). The stock Furd EGR system caused the overheating. Your head bolts are probably stretched, and those cracked heads are surely warped. A 6.0 can be made reliable. A 6.4 cannot. 1. Stud with ARP studs 2. Delete all the EGR crapola 3. If your state is nanny about that, move to another state like Texas, or you can spend $6k on genuine BulletProof EGR parts 4. Don't run any tune that gives you more than +60hp 5. Run a good console like Edge CTS3 to monitor your motor
I did compression test today. 3 cylinder were under 300 psi the other 5 over 450. Can this be overhauled in frame without removing cab
You can't do any major service without removing the cab. This is not an inframe motor like a big truck.
You can't get the heads off with the cab on. Either cab off or engine out. Cab comes off in an hour and a half.
Yep. Pull the cab. A very skilled wrench can replace bolts with studs on a 6.0, but not pull the heads. The 6.4 is basically a 6.0 that Furd made even less reliable, suing and feuding with Navistar.