2011 John Deere 310J S/N 1T0310JXAB0201801 New to the Board I own a small equipment rental company in CA and searched for the solution to my problem and it led me to these forums. I have seen similar issues but mine seems to be a little more unique (I believe). Customer of mine was using the backhoe with the bucket and out riggers down. He went to go remove a small stump next to the trench he was digging and lost all hydraulics when he went to curl the hoe bucket. I went up and replaced the main pump behind that transmission thinking this had to be the issues but I was wrong. After installing new pump the back hoe still has zero function in the bucket, steering, out riggers and back hoe. Checked fuses as well. It will shift in FWD and REV. I can do some mechanics myself but when it comes to hydraulics it gets a little confusing for me. Location of the backhoe is in the middle of the CA sierras next to a little neighborhood of cabins and trying to get it up and running before having to send a mechanic up there to diagnose/fix the problem.
You changed this pump?
Thats the one.
Does #8 have voltage when enabled? If so, measure the coil resistance for open circuit. If not, check wiring and fuses. That's the solenoid that turns pilot oil on and off.
I will have to check that! Thank you.
Welcome to HEF Garrett ! Did you take apart the old pump to see if it is damaged? Does the shaft on the old pump turn? If the old pump is seized up, then the pump drive shaft broke (yes, the trans will still drive). If the old pump is not seized up see next comment. You said all hydraulics. Loader does not work also? If not, then replace the relief valve in the inlet section of the backhoe valve.
I already replaced the pump with a new one but I’ll check the old pump. do you have a part number and diagram where the pressure relief would go? I tried looking it up and got multiple “pressure relief” valves.
Just left the John Deere dealership and they are saying it’s probably a shaft broke inside the transmission. Not sure if they are trying to shaft me with a big mobile mechanic bill.
Do do I need to prime the pump after replacing relief valve?
No. It is a job you can easily do. It can be replaced with the hydraulic pump and 1 snap ring removed. If you remove the pump, you can check the shaft by trying to turn it. If it turns by hand (or by a pair of snap ring pliers expanded in the pump drive for grip), the the shaft is broken. But check your old pump first like I mentioned.
Went back up today. Took the outlet line off the main pump and turned engine on and no hydraulic fluid was pumping out.
Im Guessing its this Shaft that could possibly be broken? T379752 Closest thing I could find and it looks like it powers the PTO or in this case the main hydraulic pump?
Proud of them. Joe H
#22 would be correct. Part number is T379751.
Awesome any other secrets I need to know. Gonna head back up there this week. Can the snap wring fall into the machine or broken shaft fall in? I attached a photo of where I’m working. Barley any room underneath get around.
Snap ring or shaft won't fall into the machine. Take a strong extendable magnet to pull the broken half of the shaft out. That bearing on the end of the shaft is pressed on. You might want to order the other snap ring and bearing (items 23 and 24) and have the assembly ready to just put in. Otherwise, you have to press the bearing off the old shaft and onto the new.
thank you sir that’s exactly what I needed to know. Wouldn’t have been able to do that with the tools I have in my truck. Appreciate the help once again. Wish me luck!
Fix anything yet? Joe H
not yet waiting on parts. Hopefully next week
Finally got my parts in going Wednesday to put the shaft in and cross my fingers. I bought and extra bearing just in case. Should I get the bearing pressed on the shaft first or should I try and install shaft in existing bearing. Not sure if it will be pressed in and hard to pull out with existing bearing and shaft. I don’t want to get back up there and get stuck in the middle of the job if I can’t pull the bearing and shaft out of the tractor. Thanks I’m advance for the advice
Have the new bearing pressed onto the shaft first. The shaft/bearing assembly should not be difficult to remove. You might have to insert and spread a snap ring plier to pull or use a small pilot bearing puller. Two screw drivers prying can sometimes work as well. The bearing is a slip fit into the housing. Make sure you have a strong magnet to pull the broken piece out.
thank you! I got extendable magnets, snap ring pliers (both internal and external) I pressed the bearing on the shaft today. Headed back up there tomorrow crossing my fingers! This has been quite the adventure/headache. My customer isn’t too happy :-/
I cannot tell from the picture, but has the piston ring been installed on it?
No it has not. I did not see that part in the parts break down
#20 on the parts page.
Got the ring at JD this morning at 7am. The shaft behind the pump was free spinning but had difficulty removing it. Almost gave up and went back into town for a bearing puller but I turned on the unit to make sure it wasn’t spinning and the fluid(not sure what kind but it was kind of milky)that came out through the bearing actually helped push out the bearing and broken top of the shaft and was able to get two screw drivers and pry it out. All hydraulics started working and topped off hydraulic fluid from what has spilt from removing pump. The only issue I’m having now is steering is hard to steer but it’s back in my yard for further assessment. I owe you a bottle of your favorite drink or something because you were the only one to give me solid advice and I can’t thank you enough!
That's not how it works here, everyone who posted in your thread is owed a bottle. Joe H
Shoot I didn’t see that in the community guidelines. Send me your address now
Debris from a pump failure stuck in the priority valve. I hope you changed the hydraulic filter. Also cut open the old hydraulic filter to see the extent of contamination.
I want my own bottle just so I don't have to drink after some old nasty mechanic
I did but i was done working on it out in the middle of nowhere so i put it on the trailer and brought it back to my yard. Going to go through the whole machine, full service top to bottom. Going to cut open the hydraulic filter and see whats in it when i get a chance and take some of the fluid to get tested. Where would the priority valve be located? Do i remove it and clean it or do i need to replace it?
Part of the backhoe valve. When standing at the back of the machine looking at the backhoe valve, it is the section all the way to the right. Follow the main hose from the pump. The other end of the hose goes into the priority valve. I would try to clean it first, if you can get it out. If you can't, then the section will need to be replaced. Be careful. The caps on the priority spool are under spring tension.
Took the spool out it was tough to get out couldn’t find anything let the hydraulic fluid flush it out. Reinstalled and it started working. Found a lot of fine metal in the filter without even having to cut it out so not sure what do to now. If I should keep changing the filter or what.
Any metal is not good. Let's hope the filter caught the bulk of it. Drain the hydraulic oil. Look inside the reservoir and see if there is a lot of metal. Run a magnet across the bottom of the reservoir to see what you pick up. Post pictures.
What you do now is get into a relationship with a hot banker.
time to throw it in the auction
This is all I could get from my telescopic magnet from the full tube of the reservoir