4 cylinder gas motor high low trans two wheel drive diff lock is stuck in. wondering what this would be worth. dont know the year hour meter is broken at 290 hrs has been over heated many times and i am currently in the process of putting a head gasket on it. will try to get more info on it soon
got back out to work on the twenty twenty and found the block cracked in three spots all from a coolant passage to the head bolt hole through it to the sleeves or cylinder.
A tractor without a loader, and a gas one at that, isn't worth too much in that condition, especially in this economy. Even though it's a JD, I would guess $500, and that's just a guess, I really don't know their value. Tires can make a big difference to the price also. If it's your own machine and you are going to keep it, consider what seals and where. I don't believe the bottom liner ledge needs to form a seal. Coolant will follow a stud or bolt up, to leak around the washer or thread. Phil
yeah it is cracked from a coolant passage to the head bolt to the cylinder. it started at the coolant passage cracking. It has the availability of a loader with hyd up gravity down no hyd tilt forward or back just a release to dump and drag it backward hook and go again. They also have a hyd up down and tilt for it. They have a twenty ten also is how they have two loaders. They also have a box blade straight blade 2 brush mowers and i think a few other things.
A loader with no down pressure or a 'trip' bucket is not good for resale and limits what you can do with it. The crack..... it's hard to say if overheating caused it. Looks like that engine uses head bolts, not studs, not likely someone used a bolt too long in that hole, but you could check, sometimes longer bolts are used in a doweled hole. I sense you thinking of buying it from the guy or wondering whether to advise block replacement. Keep in mind there is other damage overheating can do. If the block surface is flat, not warped, and the liner height is within spec, I would be tempted to put it back together and try it, if it were my own. Of course the cylinder head needs to be flat and crack free. I would use a sealer on the head gasket, like aviation non-hardening type, everywhere except the liner sealing rings. Oil the head bolt threads and hardened washers before installing. Watch the torque on the bad hole, it should be alright but it might not be. On the bad 'hole' do not oil the bolt's head and washer, make sure they are well degreased and use a sealer on them like Locktite 515. Monitor the engine for coolant in the engine oil. Don't quote me on any of this. Phil
yeah we resurfaced the head for free the owner has connections to a machine shop. he looked at it last night and said its pretty bad we are thinking of putting it back together and run k&w block seal in it and see if it will seal the cracks. yeah the hole that is bad had a diffrent bolt than the rest of them it was 13/16 head instead of 3/4 like the rest of them so i would say someone has been in here before and thats what got used to get farther downin the threads. the gravity down trip bucket loader is for the 2010 it just got put on the 2020 last it had the hay spike bucket on it.
I would run a tap in the bad hole and make sure the rest of the holes are clean too. It doesn't take much too crack a blind hole...too much oil(hydraulics), too long a bolt(bottoming), dirt in the threads, or too much torque. Screw the bolt in the hole by hand and make sure it's not too loose. If so replace the bolt with an identical stud and locktite it in place. Studs are much better for these threads anyway. Head bolts are usually a special grade and designed to stretch. Fortunately it's a gas engine, not diesel. If that bolt starts to have a funny feel as you near your final torque, you may have to stop. I only use the powdered aluminum type rad sealer. I wouldn't count on that alone to seal up the top of that head bolt, but a good idea to add it when the engine is fully warm and running. Many cracks in castings are not visible without the proper equipment. Phil