I know that a starter off a 6.9L can fit a 207 case motor. But what is the difference between a automatic vs a manual starter for the 6.9L and would this interfere with the starter being able to mate up with the fly wheel.
That is an interesting question. A IH 420 Cubic inch engine starter actually fits a 207. Not sure what you mean by automatic vs a manual. Transmission ?? If it does mate up with the fly wheel be absolutely certain that the pinion gear is an exact duplicate of the OEM 207 starter pinion. I know from a bad experience that although they may look the same and also mesh with the ring gear, you can destroy a ring gear real quick. The number of teeth is the most important thing on those pinion gears. Is there a reason you want to go with the 6.9 starter instead of staying with the OEM 207 starter ? Just asking.
price is the biggest......Everything bolted right in the starter gear was the same on the old starter. They looked like clones. But I'm thinking there might be a difference in the motor voltage because I'm just getting a real loud solid click from the starter. Do these starters really need 24 volts to spin.
price is the biggest......Everything bolted right in the starter gear was the same on the old starter. They looked like clones. But I'm thinking there might be a difference in the motor voltage because I'm just getting a real loud solid click from the starter. Do these starters really need 24 volts to spin.
If you can post the numbers that are on the metal tag (if it is still on it) someone may be able to tell you.
Well it works but I have questions when the tractor is running what volts should I be getting out of the alt. Also I was only showing 11.8-12 volts at my battery would that cause me having to push the start button a million times before the starter would engage. I'm seeing the same at the starter. The old starter would click a million times to so I'm thinking something in the start circuit is going bad
I think the hoe needs 12 or better volts to start. It starts every time now. knock on wood. Im getting 2.61-2.78 out of the top green wire on the alt. and 12.07 at the bottom green wire and the back red wire. This is the starter that I bought http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...rter-Remfd-Standard/_/R-RSE2440208_0324561990
If it works it has to be 12 volts. First things to check are clean battery terminal connections. Next would be the ALL of the ground connections. Don't just look at them but take them off and clean them and make sure they are tight when they are back on. There are a lot of other things that will cause it to click a lot before the starter turns , but you have to eliminate one thing at a time. If both starters clicked a lot, that points to a connection problem. There is an outside chance both starters have a solenoid that is failing. You could take the starter to a rebuilder and have it checked and serviced if it needs it. They usually check them for free .
I have a 580c that just clicked when the button was pushed. I could jump the solenoid with 12 volts from the starter solenoid battery connection and it would start every time. I installed a relay by the starter and hooked up 12 volt supply from the starter to the relay than ran the wire from the original push button on the dash to energize the relay when pushed. I haven't had a problem with it not starting in two years now.
If you are seeing only 12v when the engine is running you have a bad alternator. Should charge in the 13.6 to 14.2 range when running (more or less) 13.2 would be fine too. You also need to check voltage drop at the starter while starting to see if unit is dragging or has another issue. Starter is a starter and you trouble shoot the same way, car or tractor, tractor's are generally just a bit more robust. You likely have a starter/alternator repair shop locally that can spin the unit and tell you it it is good or not. Nothing more frustrating than a machine, that won't reliably start or charge the battery. It becomes a lawn ornament at that point, but cutter than a lawn gnome to me.