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289D wheel speed sensor

Kressisking ยท 2025-10-15 18:35

Wires got pulled out on our 289D of the wheel speed sensor on the right side at the connector infront of the pump, wires pulled out on the harness side. On harness side i have a white,yellow,brown, and light blue? On sensors side i have two yellows,white,purple

Replies15
  1. #1Simon C2025-10-15 23:02

    Would be a good idea to post a serial number as there is a lot of variations of your machine. Then you can get exact answers for which wire to which pin on connector. Simon C

  2. #2Simon C2025-10-15 23:25

    Was looking at a schematic from a D machine, but not guaranteed yours. Need serial number before I would say something definitely. Just a little suggestion, for all my customers I take pictures of there machine serial numbers, and put them in an Album on my phone so I can get info fast. Simon C

  3. #3Nige2025-10-15 23:44

    Can you see any numbers marked on the insulation of the wires on the machine side.?

  4. #4Kressisking2025-10-16 04:50

    thank you for the responses the serial number is CAT0289DJTAW11211, i cannot see any numbers on the harnesss side i found in another part of the forum that someone said yellow and white are the power and return, i think white is ground and yellow is power since i have continuity to ground on the white wire? and that the signal wires are the brown and the grey on the RH side so i would just have to figure out which way those two go. if anybody has a schematic with wire colors or anything its much appreciated!

  5. #5Nige2025-10-16 05:03

    Can you confirm that the connector in your photo is on the speed sensor pigtail please.

  6. #6Nige2025-10-16 05:09

    Actually I think I have it figured out. The connector on your photo is the speed sensor jumper harness. There should be another connector a distance away from that one where it connects to the motor speed sensor pigtail. So please do a test. On the machine harness test the voltage between the yellow and the white wires with the key ON. You should have 8.0 +/- 0.5v DC at that point.

  7. #7Kressisking2025-10-16 05:38

    yes correct 7.95v between yellow and white wire on the skid steer harness side

  8. #8Nige2025-10-16 05:41

    This should help you. I think this is the connector you are looking at. The pins are numbered from the back side as per the 2nd illustration which seems correct because the two yellow wires in the connector are in the upper positions in your photo. That corresponds to Pins 1 & 4 when the lock is at the top and fits with what is shown on the schematic.

  9. #9Kressisking2025-10-16 05:46

    gonna go try it now, your a god send nige!

  10. #10Kressisking2025-10-16 06:02

    alright got that setup and tried it and im still getting the 2688-8 (right drive motor speed sensor #2 abnormal frequency pulse width or period) i do have the wires just twisted together at the moment for testing, i also tried swapping the yel-yel and yel-brown wondering if when it got yanked it messed up the wires at the wheel speed sensor? do you have access to a pinpoint test for the wheel speed sensor?

  11. #11Nige2025-10-16 06:39

    It's possible. Was the 2688-8 Code there before the wires got ripped out.? If you swap the two signal wires (YL & BR) around you should also get a 2687-8 Code as well. There is a "trick" regarding the 2687/88 Codes, and the corresponding ones for the other side for that matter. The machine has to move enough of a distance for a "genuine" signal to be received by the ECM before the Code will change from Active to Logged. This could be 20 feet or 20 yards, or even more. Have you tried that.?

  12. #12Kressisking2025-10-16 06:44

    Code was not there before, i was replacing a hose and i think my foot grabbed that harness on the way out and thats what pulled the wires out, i will confirm the code changes when the wires are swapped and try driving it a decent distance, do i need to disconnect the battery and let it reset after i swap wires and try to get it to go to logged?

  13. #13Nige2025-10-16 06:51

    AFAIK it is solely based on getting a genuine signal so disconnecting the battery will probably not do any good. See attached the troubleshooting procedures for 2687-8 and 2688-8. Note the bold text in both of them close to the bottom of Page 1.

  14. #14Kressisking2025-10-16 08:18

    yep you were right i drove it some and now the light is off so ill repair those wires and move on, i also have a 2211-6 (auxiliary valve #1 port B solenoid current above normal), i just changed three hoses on the right side track so i need to look into that code now, not sure if you have any info on it before i start searching online

  15. #15Nige2025-10-16 08:30

    See the attachment. You will probably also need an electrical schematic. Check your message.