Hello everyone I'm new to the forum and have a question. I have a old 310 Case track loader (gas) that I use around the farm for small jobs, it don't have a lot of power for anything to large. Question: I was pushing some dirt for my driveway and a track became loose. I don't have a manual, and I have recently purchased this machine about a month ago, so I don't know how to tighten the track up. I can't find a grease fitting to adjust the track out, so I guess it must be spring loaded or something of that nature. I'm not familiar with dozers of any kind and could use some advice. Thank you.
And you're not gonna either. That machine is old school. Here's the link to Case's parts page for one variation of that machine: http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr68029ar783313 (I imagine all 310 crawlers are pretty much the same.) Zoom in and see parts 10 and 11. One is the track adjusting nut, and the other is the jam nut. I don't remember what size they are, but I do remember that on the one I owned they were so rounded off I had to use a pipe wrench to turn them. Back off the jam nut and turn the adjusting nut whichever direction makes the track tighter. (BTW, if the bottom rollers are the original design, you will find grease fittings in them. Don't neglect them. They're a pain, but they're a worse pain when the bearings go out of them.) Oh. And welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums!
Thanks for the 1 reply, I guess my question was rather mundane, however, I was in need of some advice. I will be sure my next post captures the interest of my audience. In any event if anyone ever needs advice for tightening a track of a 310 Case this is how you may want to proceed. See attached photos, notice the the adjustment nut ,(far right) backed by 2 other nuts, well this far right nut was rusted in place, I tried heating it along w/ all sorts of lubricants to try and free it would not budge. The only way to loosen this adjustment nut is to hook a chain to the front wheel and pull very slowly, this will take pressure off the adjustment nut as well as tighten the track. Now you have the adjustment nut free of pressure, as well as the the track tightened. Now you can heat and lube this nut until you free it. Once it is free and it may take awhile, you than tighten it until it bottoms against the idler arm, don't forget to tighten the jam nuts tight against it.
Well, it does have 83 views, as of this reply. I think it's probably more a case of not many members feeling qualified to offer the advice you were looking for, as it is a pretty old machine. Thank you though. Your pictures and text are much more informative than the parts link I posted. And they bring back many (not so) fond memories of my own struggles with those particular tracks.... :notworthy On edit: After taking a better look at the pics, a question--How much thread do you have left to work with on the adjusting rod? It looks like there's plenty in the pic of the left side, but I can't discern any sticking out in the pics of the right side. My 310 was well used when we bought it, and the rails were way worn out. The previous owner had actually removed one link on each side of the machine, and we still had trouble getting them tight enough to stay on. Eventually I found a used set that was better.
If track came loose suddenly while operating the machine it could have broken the recoil spring which would account for sudden loose track. Just a thought.
Hello digger, Yes sir I understand your point regarding the replies and do apologize. I believe the right side is at it's end there is no more thread left to adjust out, if the track loosens again I'm afraid it will require some major work and replacement. In the meantime I"ll use the machine to do minor work on my driveway and other small projects around the farm. The engine was overhauled by the previous owner a couple years ago and really runs great but is limited in power, but for a gas job you can't expect it to be a power house. Also it's a small machine and not intended to clear trees and such but for $2400.00 dollars I figure I can't get hurt to bad. Thanks again digger for your input.
Atco, I don't think the spring is broken, but sure is at it's end it appears it is suppressed to the limit with no adjustment left for future track looseness.