I have a Dresser TD7-H with a Komatsu (looks like Cummins) engine. It has a Lucas fuel pump. Type says 700? I think it may be a DPA. I noticed when I recently bought the machine that it did not idle correctly but it didn't concern me at the time. I finally got it all back together tonight and ran it for a while. It does not open up like it should. I am going to attach some pics of the pump. The pic was taken with the fuel control lever all the way at the idle position. When you pull it to WOT the fuel pump control stops against the high idle screw like it should, but it is no where near WOT. I do not have a tach. but it is barley above idle. Also, I should mention that I believe the top has been off of the pump because I can see what appears to be some orange silicon on the gasket. I have done mechanic work for years, but never been inside a fuel pump. My question is could this be something right under the cover that is out of time? or not splined correctly? I am just about ready to say the hell with it and pull it off to try my luck. Why not? It would have to go to a pump shop anyway. Right? Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.
Send a PM to thepumpguysc, he can advise you on what to do, add a link to this thread so he can respond here and others can benefit from the info.
FWIW, I'm not a injection pump technician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night... That's a Cummins 4B engine and a Lucas CAV pump. I can't answer your question but, before you f-up the pump: (Replace the spin-on fuel filter. Check for a filter/water separator before the lift pump. And for a finger strainer in the tank. (Check the lift pump. It's a diaphragm low-pressure pump like an old-time gas engine fuel pump. Should fill a coke can in less than 10 seconds. I have a couple of 6B engines like that with the Lucas pumps. I've never had any problems with those pumps, I've only had problems with the fuel systems... I hope that that helps!
The governor code is on the name plate..last line..I need to have it inorder to verify proper set up. example>>89/850/7/2200. The gaskets are kinda "unforgiving" so once we get the RPM problem solved, you'll probably need a new top cover gasket and "acorn nut" gaskets.. Don't sweat it tho..lets just figure out the rpm prob. 1st.
Just looked at the pics again..its obvious that the governor spring is hooked up wrong by the position of the low idle screw[ backed out] its an EASY FIX..
Numbers on the pump are A53L/800/3/2725. There is some movement in the control linkage. It seams like a bushing is out in the top cover where the shaft goes through it. Would this bushing be in rebuild kit? What about new vanes for the transfer pump? Also, I have seen these rebuild kits on EBAY. Would you recommend these or stay away from them. I'm not really dead set on removing the pump and going through it, just getting it where it will run right. It is pretty obivious that someone has had the top off I can't help but wonder if I should go ahead and go through it? I appreciate your comment about it being a simple fix. That makes me feel better.
Spring code is "3"...Top hole on the governor arm and last hole on the throttle[closest to the pivot] I dont like the ebay kits..aftermarket...and expensive...you can get one local 7135-110 for less than ebay and its OEM.
BTW> Bushing does NOT come in the kit and its a "field service" fix.. Delphi/Lucas/CAV does not aknowledge this procedure.. and you need a special reamer and epoxy to install it correctly. BUT it beats the hell outta spending 80.00 on a new aluminum top cover.. IF you decide to yank it off, you'll need a "puller" inorder to pop the gear from the pump drive shaft. and the transfer pump blades do not come in the OEM kit..P# 7123-388 comes in a pack of 2.
I removed the top cover and found why the throttle was not moving correctly. The pic shows why. The lever was outside of the spring. I unhooked the spring and hooked it so the lever was inside the spring and it fixed my idle and WOT issue. My question now is.....is this the correct spring?
Yes.
someone has surely installed the spring incorrectly......if you don't know don't go.......
I am still messing with this pump off and on. I have a question about the piece that the linkage from the machine attaches to.( The same piece that contacts the high and low idle stops) Mine has some slack between it and the fuel shaft coming through the top cover. I believe, if I could get this slack out my pump would achieve high and low idle like it should. I have run it some since my last post and it seams strong, also have repaired the leak on the top cover. I can make it either reach the high idle stop or the low idle stop. It doesn't like much, but it likes some. Where can I buy this piece for the pump? Do I have to use a local shop?My closet one is about 50 miles. Anyone have an estimate on what it will cost? Thanks to "Thepumpguysc" for all your help.
Are you saying the throttle lever is loose on the throttle shaft? or there is slack between the throttle lever and the detent ball ? If its the 1st question then, the throttle shaft is worn at the flat, where the lever sits on it.. nothing to do but change the shaft and the lever assembly. They can be a real pain to get centered correctly and you might have missed the flat..?? I need to have your pump # [top line] inorder to get you the right parts and prices..
The number on the pump is U3042 F210. My local pump shop priced it at $127.25. Seams a little steep for the throttle lever. This did not include the shaft that goes through the top cover. (The same shaft shown in the pics above where I had the leak). Can someone beat this price?
127.26 is LIST PRICE.. Theres alot of wiggle room.. just ask them..101.81 is authorized dealer price.. I could sell you 1 but w/ shipping costs, your back to the 127.00.. P# for lever assy, is 7135-75E The throttle shaft P# is 7123-770L and its an updated part so your going to need a special bushing with it also.. P# 7139-433B Shaft is 26.00 list AND BUSHING IS 3.50
That's really a little more than I wanted to spend right now. Thanks for looking up the prices. I will give it some serious thought and decide how I want to handle it. Thanks again for all the help with this.
I have a Lucas CAV pump on a Cummins 6BT 5.9...this Is a marine application. Normal Idle rate was around 550-650 rpm....now, & intermittently for the past few months the Idle has been 800-1000. I have Inspected the control linkage/cable, pivot arm & spring...cleaned around spring etc. to clear any buildup ....& all seems o.k. without any disassembly. I change the spin-on every 600hrs...& upstream from It I change redundant Racor filters every 300hrs or so,...depending what the vac. gauge tells me... I have put 8000 hrs+ on this engine since I have been operating It (2007). It Is the main Engine on a commercial fishing vessel...& I log most of the daily operating hours @ low rpm. The exhaust soots up as well..which It has always done. That may or may not be related to the Idle Issue. For now I would like to remedy the racing rpm when transmission Is disengaged & throttle all back. Any Ideas? I am new to this site so, If I am Interrupting this thread...please direct me......
I have a Lucas pump #m072298006-b, I think is the same as the one in this thread, 4b 3.9 Cummins engine in a Waldon loader, engine would not throttle up and lacked any power, after correcting gross contamination (rust/water) in the fuel tank, new supply pump, fuel filters, removal and cleaning of regulating valve assembly including new nylon filter ( was 1/2 full of rust pasty crud), removed and cleaned pressurizing valve (had an orifice that was completely obstructed no ball/spring) now the engine starts easily and makes great power but when you get to 3/4 WOT the rectangular governor cover begins to spray/leak at the gasket, I have tightened the cover nuts but I'm afraid to go to hard at it fearing damage to the cover or studs/nuts, Is there something that could be wrong with the regulating valve or another component that could cause excess pressure under the governor cover? I do have a manual for this pump, but may not be 100% the correct one. Injection pump repair is new to me and any advise would be greatly appreciated, Kind regards, Jim Whyland
Its usually a return restriction.. causing excessive pump housing pressure.. DO NOT keep tightening the top cover bolts.!! they WILL snap off.. Look on ebay for CAV top cover gaskets.. they sell a "mini-kit" w all the gaskets needed to repair a leaking oring and rect. cover gasket.. BUT u gotta find the source of the restriction.. Unscrew the "return connector" off the front of the pump.. does it have a check ball & spring.?? They are REAL bad about sticking in the UP position & creating hi hsg pressure.. It usually blows out the front seals.. But have a good look at your filters, what micron are they.??
After tightening the cover acorn nuts a little bit more the leaking appears to have stopped when at WOT. I've not yet ran the engine for longer than 3-4 minutes , I do have the proper cover gasket but it has not been changed, I had removed the return fitting (pressurizing valve/ orifice)from the cover and it was completely blocked, cleaned it, it's a very small orifice (no ball and spring) all fuel filters are Cummins OEM, I've blown air back thru the return piping and hear it bubbling in the tank, is it possible there is an issue with the regulating valve causing the pressure? when the return tube is removed from the cover and the engine is started, the pressurizing orifice in the cover will shoot a steam 5-6 foot , are you suggesting that there may be an external return piping restriction?
Your taking the vent screw out.. the one in the CENTER of the top cover.. THAT has an orifice.. Keep going to the front & you’ll get to the return connector.. That will have a check ball in it.
Thepumpguysc can help you. I had a similar problem with the idle being too high on a Perkins with the CAV pump. It was a fairly simple fix but had to buy a complete kit for the few parts I needed. I think a shop made up a smaller kit with just the needed parts on e-bay but I just went to a local dealer and got the complete kit. Is your top cover leaking? If I recall that is a symptom and if it isn't leaking it will be shortly. Have to be careful taking the top cover off and see what holes the spring is in. Very important to hook up properly.
Pump guy, The line I am talking about is the only port in the governor cover, it has a 3/16" line that returns to the fuel tank, it has only an orifice, question remains, would any assembly issue or lack of internal parts movement in the fuel supply regulating valve cause excess pressure under the governor cover? additionally is there a specific pressure that should or could be measured on this cover port, I'm trying my best to avoid the possibility of blowing out the main shaft seal. Your help greatly appreciated, Jim Whyland
Jim, your going to have to provide me the actual CAV/Delphi pump #.. example> 3242F770 I'm fly'n blind here.. Doesnt the connector on the top cover have an orifice in it & T's into the return line..?? There is a pressure reading that we take from the side cover.. The cover is drilled & tapped for a pressure gauge.. Basically, its a home made special tool.. Most housing pressure readings are 7-12 psi at full load rpm.. I cant be more specific w/o the pump #..
Pump Guy, not often do find anyone so willing to help, Yes the connector on top of the governor cover has an orifice and "t's" into the same line that returns fuel with the fuel injector return line to the fuel tank, the full set of numbers on the id plate are as follows, first line 3908646, second line m072298006-b third line A53L800-3-2725, I have considerable machine shop capabilities at home and could easily modify that side cover for a plug/ test port, Kind regards and stay well, Jim Whyland
Pump Guy, After adapting the governor cover fuel return line to a 30psi gauge the pressure never exceeds 9psi, it actually falls of to 7-8 psi at WOT, so I guess the only true issue was a leaking cover gasket, I'll get that replaced as soon as it warms up a little. Your help and insight is greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Jim Whyland
THAT sure was a long way to go for a 10.00 gasket.. but to each is own..
Pump Guy, Having such a gross contamination of rusty/paste I figured I would have the worst case possible, I think the inlet fuel regulator has been starving the injection pump for quit some time, And now it has plenty of fuel/pressure, I didn't want to risk blowing out the main shaft seal, Thanks again for your help, Jim W
I have that very same pump, with a very similar problem. I guess I need to start looking into it, but I'd be happier if I can find one remanufactured instead. thepumpguysc, Do you happen to have one of the pumps, or know where I could get one? Delco has one, but they are out of stock so I wrote to ask them if they know when they will have one in stock.
Why not see what's wrong with your pump before condemning it? Pumpguy could likely rebuild it (if need be) for a lot less than a complete new pump. Maybe it only needs some relatively minor repairs.
Good question. Normally, I would go the cheapest route, but We live 4 miles up a very rocky and steep road on the top of a Mountain and the road is nearly unusable due to recent snowfall. Last week when plowing with our 2020 Cabbed LS XR4155 Tractor with a very heavy duty back blade, the tractor lost all forward drive. I had just started and had just gotten the tractor back from other issues. Its a love/hate thing with the tractor and LS. We got about 26 inches of snow total just prior, and I had to plow to even be able to use the road with our trucks which are all lifted, with chains and Mud tires. Since the road is barely plowed, I tried to keep going that night in reverse, and even though I just put new light bulbs in the rear, they would not work so I was plowing backwards, in the dark, late at night and ended up getting that stuck having to walk about 2 miles home, uphill a couple of 1,000 feet at 2am. Not a fun night. The State Park closes the main gate for the road we normally use from Dec 31st to May 1st, so we have no way to get the tractor out to get it repaired until after May 1st. Its still under warrantee. So, the next day, we went to look at a dozer, and ended up buying it because we are really trying to do something the tractor is too small to do. This road is extremely rocky, and some of the rocks are sticking out a bit, but can weight tons, so we are shearing off the 3 point bolts now and sub frame bolts using it to plow. The dozer seemed to run fine until I got it to the higher elevation at 8,700 feet. Since that night, I have spent 4 out of 6 nights towing out the other trucks and have been getting home between 11pm, and 4:15am. The road has never been this bad in the 4 years I have been up here. So, to answer your question, time is more important to me than the price of the pump right now, and I like to have backups for my backups because we have found these conditions to be brutal on the equipment and vehicles. I also had to take a lady down Saturday to get to an ambulance because she had kidney stones and was in severe pain. I grew up driving in snow, but this last snow was just to worst conditions we have ever had up here. It won't pack, and every couple of nights it was snowing 2 more inches which has made the road worse and worse. Part of my job here is to keep the roads usable in any conditions, and for the last 2 weeks, so many people have gotten stuck, I am trying to get this dozer up and running as fast as I can. I would be very happy to have this pump rebuilt, but because the tractor is down, and this dozer is what I'm currently using to pull out those who keep getting stuck, I can't be without it right now. Sorry for the long answer, but that is why I just want to slap a pump on this and then have spares for it by parking my old pump. I did buy a rebuild kit on Amazon for it, and I'm now researching all I can to be able to do it right the first time, but if I can buy a pump, I will certainly go that route due to needing to be able to fix the road ASAP.
3908646 was the guys pump #.. u said u have the exact same pump.. plug it into Google and a lot of choices come up.. eBay has 1 too.. I can rebuild it.. but that’s on the back burner..
I am about 1 day experience now into this pump and he posted 2 numbers that match mine cept 1 letter as shown below. He posted this, "Numbers on the pump are A 53L/800/3/2725" And then he posted this: "The number on the pump i s U3042 F210" My pump shows this on the tag: Lucas CAV Injector Pump: U3042 F210 Type: DPA Serial: 1280060 Model: 11970 53L800/3/2725 Mine has that very same number but without the "A" at the beginning. So, I don't know, but 2 numbers are a match except for the A, and I don't know what that represents. I'm trying to figure this out.
Btw Welder Dave, I'm not trying to buy a brand-new pump, I'm not sure if that's even possible? I have been pricing reman pumps.
Ok, after watching this video: CAV Injection pump full strip down to re seal and stop fuel leaks And buying this rebuild kit: S.57135 Fuel Injection Pump Seal Kit Fits Lucas Amazon.com Im going to redo it myself. If anybody else comes to this thread for help with a similar CAV pump, just watch that vid, buy that kit and plan to do it yourself. It may be a 1-2 hour job, and unless you have no mechanical skills, this is a very easy pump to go over for the cost of about $13.
There was a thread a few years ago concerning Cav IP's and video's on repairing them. Thepumpguy commented on one of the video's being inaccurate or wrong. I can't remember which specific video but it would be a good idea to wait until he see's your post and advises on if it's accurate and the proper way to do things. He knows these IP's like the back of his hand. He's helped a countless number of posters with Cav IP's.
Appreciate the input Dave. Thank you. I will be curious to see what he says about it. I won't have the rebuild kit till later next week. This vid doesn't seem to cut any corners or do anything outside of what seems to be a simple remove, clean and reinstall. It focuses on just making sure to pay attention to how it was before taking it apart so that people can put it back as it was prior. I like to take pics and vid if needed when doing jobs like this, and he even recommends that. There are many compliments in the comments also stating that his vid was the reason they were able to fix a very similar problem such as the one I am having now. It's not about any modding, just re-sealing, and shows that this pump, unlike many of the popular pumps used more often for the Cummins, is a very simple design and appears to be a equally simple R&R. I'm starting to think this is better for my sake actually because the other pumps do seem much more complicated. There are many "don't do this, or that" in them and I saw many of the vids about the other types, and I probably overdid it (not unusual for me) because when I was done, I really didn't want to do it myself, thus the rush to find a reman. The vid showed me that it is much easier to do a R&R on a CAV pump then I would have thought. I will see what he says though, thx.
It might be a good video. I just remember him saying one of the video's had some wrong info on how to do something. I think one of the popular video's was accurate though. Just thought it would be good to mention it so you get it right.
THATS the video that keeps me busy year round.!!! I don’t recall what he does wrong.?? But you’ll be miles ahead if u find another video and use the 2 to redo the pump.. Btw, your pump # is U3042F210.. if u leave off the U.. you’ll get more options.. I always said, I really should send that guy a royalty check for all the money he’s made me.!!! If I had a dollar for every pump I did, that the customer said, I watched that video on line and now my pump won’t even pump.!! All I had was a leak.!! OH WAIT, I did get a dollar and lots of’m… And bought a new loaded F-150.!!
What’s wrong with yours.?? It won’t pump.??
If you had waited and asked, The kit # is 7135-110 The folks that made that pump are now called Delphi.. so don’t get spooked when looking things up..
I appreciate the info, and warning, but if you're going to call out a video and not state what the error is in it, well, that's not going to really help anybody is it? When I post and ask question in a tech forum, I am always thinking of the guy after me who may have the same problem. I will then go out of my way to make sure the next guy doesn't have to jump through hoops as I have had to do, it's just the way I do things. That guy in the video has tons (1,900+) of thanks for being so helpful, kind and clear with his work and as you well know, sometimes good info cannot overcome not so good tech ability's. I have seen many people put things together wrong, many times in fact even using a factory manual 1,000's before them used to put something together properly. That still doesn't make the source wrong. If that video is in error, or giving bad advice, don't you think it would be very helpful to watch it again, find the bad info, and post a comment under it to share your expertise with the others who will repeat this error in the future? I think you got the wrong video... Now, you've asking me to use that video , and another to redo mine? Sorry, that just doesn't make any sense to me. I'm sure you have helped many, and that's great but I did ask for help, and you told me "That's on the back burner" And then you told me I got a different pump, then you posted my pump numbers which happen to be the same numbers I posted. I'm sure your good at what you do, but you don't seem to understand that sometimes, there is a real good reason for a person to be in a hurry. Telling a new person here who is in need of help their project is on the back burner is not really a good way to start friendships. I will find other sources for my needs.
To help you along.. the A doesn’t mean anything to you.. The back burner was meant that u didn’t have time to send it off.. There r rebuild manuals available online for free..just be aware that they are meant for technicians working in a fuel shop that have the tools to knowledge to set it properly.. With that said, there’s things in the manual that u shouldn’t do. Should I go page by page and tell u which things they are.?? Sorry friend, I work 7 days a week and don’t have the time.. I come here on my break/lunch and often in the middle of the nite.. to scan thru threads to see if I can help.. So sorry if it’s not up to your standards.. Normally I would sign off with, Good luck with your project.. But.. right now, I don’t even care..
Thanks pumpguy. I knew there was a common video you had issues with. I was just trying to warn the OP. I think a search in the archives could bring up what you found wrong in the video. Waste of time to go through it all again.
Just because you're in a hurry doesn't constitute an emergency for the pumpguy. He's up to his eyeballs in work for a reason. You won't find anyone more knowledgeable or reasonably priced. Just do a search of the archives on here of how many people the pumpguy has helped and saved a lot of money.
If there is a specific question u have, without writing a novel, I’m sure I can answer it..
I have been on, in, and an active member of forums dealing with race engines for a very long time. Blowers, Turbos, Nitrous, Tuning, Setups, etc. I have also been the "main guy" for info helping a multitude of people and I just don't agree with how a new member got treated at this place. I also joined about 6 other diesel forums and all were a very, very different experience. I felt shoved off with my 1st request, so I shared that with you all, then I was called out about the numbers, which turned out to be the same. I'm not new to this guys, I'm just new here and didn't feel a very warm welcome. Its all good. I have learned enough to be able to do this myself, and I will certainly go out of my way to help anybody I can with that knowledge whenever possible. Knowledge does not make a person special, his character and how he treats those without that knowledge is what determines that. I have been lucky enough to build Patriot missile parts, Nuke sub parts and F16 landing gear so I'm fairly confident I can handle what appears to be the easier of the rebuilds of the injection pumps out there. I meant no harm, but I will always speak the truth, even if it's not popular and coming in here did not feel in any way like I was received in a way that these forums were put in place to offer to the new members. Peace.
I do have a rebuild manual I found online, btw. That helps much, thanks.
I’ve just got to weigh in on this. Most youtube videos on how to fix stuff are misleading crap done by people who just want to generate views passing themselves off as experts when in fact they have no training. The good qualified tradespeople are usually much too busy to make videos and if they’re not, they should be
Video's from a manufacturer or supplier are usually good. There are some good video's from trades people but they can be hard to tell if they're good or not. Welding tips and tricks is an example of very good informative video's done by a master welder.
I want to apologize... For the last few weeks, I have been running ragged with a multitude of issues and after re-reading the responses to my post today, I certainly owe some of you an apology. I am sorry fellas. I have had very little patience, and probably took things the wrong way and not as they we're intended. I appreciate your feedback, and wisdom and responses, and patience. I am sorry for that.
Sometimes all the other stress you're going through puts you in a negative mood. There's a lot of knowledge on this forum so if you have any other issue's just ask.
I appreciate that Dave. I now have the pump manual, and the full dozer service manual, so I'm going to first replace the lift pump (I think that's what they call the mechanical pump on the block, its leaking) The guy I bought it off keeps telling me to replace the fuel filter, and I was able to get one yesterday so on Monday, I'm going to replace that, then I'm going to play with the timing. Once the seal kit comes, I will have gone through the manual to make sure I am familiar with the parts inside, and the adjustment screws and bleeders, so Im going to see how it goes by then. On a side note, A employee I once hired to manage a place came to me one night and said, "If everybody thinks I'm an a-hole, then maybe Im an a-hole". lol He did the overkill on being a manager and offended some of the crew, but he made good on it, and it never happened again. I kept thinking about that today, so I posted what I posted. Again, thanks.
Lift pump leaking is fairly common. I've got a 3 cylinder Perkins with the same style IP. I've replaced the lift pump a few times in 40 some years. If it doesn't pump just turn the engine over a bit to put the cam in the right position.
Definitely replace your leaking feed/supply pump.. Once u get your kit u can attack the pump.. Personally I wouldn’t bother with the timing.. If the lines are lined up on the mounting ear and block, chances r good the timing is ok.. besides, there’s an easy way to check it.. I say “easy” if u have the appropriate tool.. the engine barring tool.. “THAT” makes working on that engine enjoyable..(easy) If your pump won’t pump, remove the top cover, PAYING ATTENTION TO WHAT HOLES THE SPRING IS IN.. and see if the metering valve is free..(stuck) That pump has an electric shut off solenoid on it, right.?? MAKE SURE your getting 12v and it’s working.. On the older style shut off solenoids, the guts came out..(spring and plunger) which makes it easy to determine if u have a voltage problem or/and a bad solenoid.. by taking it out of the system entirely .. & simply using it as a plug.. That should keep you busy for a smidge.. IF u take the solenoid out of the equation and the metering valve is free.. u need to start thinking about timing and pulling the pump..?? There is a hidden filter in the inlet.. but I’ve written enough for tonight.
Hehe, Also deal with pumps myself… usually Bosch systems. 90% of times it’s debris in fuel system, debris , clogging , plugging and so on… Is always wise when bringing in a old piece of steel, start by cleaning the fuel storage, then swipe hard lines, replace flex, service mec lift pumps or test if electric. service water strainers and new fuel filter. Pumps always have a last line of defense filter, if not removed yet, it’s good idea to replace it, or trash it. This screen filter is inside injection head, and or just downstream of the fuel inlet line. Replacing or removing this one , requires some IP expertise. Running IP almost never fail when in operation, and when they do usually is catastrophic. good luck
Appreciate the input. Im going to just check the timing after I replace the fuel filter. I have a new lift pump in route, so I am replacing that as soon as I get it. When I do things like this, I take pics along the way, to make sure I put things back the same way, plus having the manual is helpful for the same reason. The Manuel shows me where that multi-hole spring goes based on a number on the tag, but yes, I will make sure it's put back in the same two holes. I do suspect the gov pin is gooped up, so I will pull the top cap soon, leaving the pump on.
I also found a bolt missing that holds the back side of the pump which I assume is a 2nd way to hold the timing. It is slotted on a radius and looks like a regular alternator adjustment slot. That is part of the reason I suspect the timing may not be correct, but that should be easy to determine. I first thought I had to pull the front cover to check, but I believe there is a mark on the backside of the timing cover area. About the Solenoid, I just went out to look, and it looks like it does have it, and it's pointing down with 1 wire going into the harness. I will check for voltage there with the ignition on, good point, thx. I didn't see it up top where it seems others are, so I didn't think it had one.
I have the Engine Barring Tool on the way also. I saw where the filter is inside there too. Thanks.
I spent some time today messing with the motor and pump. I bled all the connections, just to be safe, injectors too. I then took off the cap and cleaned it up, documented the holes the spring was in on both sides, and also checked for power at the Solenoid with the ignition on, well with the motor running and it was 14v. I can only mention two things that seemed off and Ill post the pics below. 1.) The timing mark for the backside of the timing cover was off about a 1/4 inch. It was clockwise from the back too much. I don't know yet if that's advanced or retarded but I put it back to the line on the cover. 2.) When I bled the air out of the lines coming out of the pump itself, back side the top two squirted pulses which looked normal to what I have seen on videos, but the bottom two did not seem to have nearly as much fluid coming out, they didn't squirt, but more drooled and the bottom two nearly stalled the engine when I barely cracked them separately. I don't know if this is normal, or a sign of something so I figured I'd post and see what you guys think about that. It certainly ran better after I bled the lines and put the timing back to stock. I got more mid-throttle afterwards but still from 1/2 throttle up, nothing. It's as if I don't even turn the throttle, nothing changes even if I do it directly at the pin itself manually. No rpm gain at all. The throttle pin seems to be pretty tight but it fully moves from idle to full throttle but it doesn't change anything after 1/2. I haven't taken it out of the cap yet, but I have injectors arriving shortly, and the re-seal kit too. then I will feel better going deeper. I didn't see anything that looked off or broken and I stuck my finger in and slid the pump in and out, and the little pedals seems to move just fine with no resistance.
More pics.
The lift pump is one thing I forgot to mention. It is not right. When I push it up and down, the arm, it does not feel like I have any resistance, and feels way to lose to be doing anything manually, but the new one should be here tonight too, so I will replace that.
The lift pump feels that way because it’s on the cam.. if u bump the engine over you’ll find it gets better. I see the problem with your throttle.. but 1st.. why the he!! are u tearing the pump down that far.??!! Anyway.. the problem is, the spring and the arm.. The arm HAS TO GO INSIDE THE CENTER OF THE SPRING.. It’s on the outside in your picture.. If u put everything back together, you’ll find it works much better.. I thought u had gotten a manual.?? “I stuck my finger in” sentence is no where in the manual.. if u would use the correct terminology, we could help more gooder..
I have the reseal kit now, so I planned to redo everything under the cap hoping something obviously wrong would show up. I felt ok doing this, and I took more pics along each step to cover myself. Are you referring to this pic? I can't say if it was that way before I used needle nose to disconnect it from the bottom, but I can say I was extremely gentle with it, but I just don't know... I can check that spring tomorrow to see if it's been worn there from dragging. That would be a nice easy fix. Thanks for pointing that out, and I promise I will have the manual in hand when putting it back together.
One other thing, this cover plate with two screws (lower left in pic) had a gasket that had slots inside the inner edge and they were both very deformed and heavily bowed in towards the center of the pump. It didn't look like that had any purpose, almost like it is the wrong gasket. I'll get a pic tomorrow.
There are 3 different covers.. Once u get yours off, you’ll see/understand which gasket to use.. I take it your looking at it from inside the top.?? Your kit will have 2 different gaskets..1 cork and 1 rubber.. the rubber will have cut outs for the “nubs” that r made into the cover..
Just to b on the safe side, can u post the last line on your name plate.. it’ll have the spring code (where the spring is SUPPOSED TO GO)
If your going to change the orings on the shafts.. DONT put the throttle shaft in the cover.. U can get the spring in its correct location, THEN push it up thru.. Idk what ur using for lube but don’t use grease.. it’s not soluble.. and possibly clog up the works.. clean oil is good, Vasoline is good, he!! even the wife’s cooking oil is ok.. I’m not sure how u swing so even if u have any “anal ez”… anything but grease..
Was married for 20 years, 2 Daughters. 6 Grandkids but thanks. I have that spring hole routing info somewhere, I saw it, but don't see it now so here's the tag. 3. I got nearly everything in last night, so I'm not sure yet of my plan. I want to test the injectors, but if I put the pump back together and test with new injectors and it's the same problem, Ill have to pull the pump to go through it fully. I guess Ill get another gasket kit just in case. The lift pump did not come in yet. Appreciate the advice on the throttle spring. That makes good sense. What would you think could be off in the pump to cause no fuel after 1/2 throttle? Could that be just bad injectors? I think this thing sat for a good while, and you can see fuel level rings in the cover that show several depths of fuel which I think point to that. We are having a weather break out of the blue up here. The snow is melting, and the roads are now ok. The pressure is off. These guys are no longer getting stuck so I can take my time from here on out.
The spring code is 3.. Which is third hole on the throttle (where your spring is now) and 1 (top) hole in the gov.. (tomb stone)
Ok, thanks. That's good to hear. Its the same as it was when I took it out.
Is the spring being hooked up wrong stopping the throttle from going above half?
Heya Dave, I have to go look at it closer. The Pump guy mentioned that also. When I took the cap off, I was mostly worried about not over stretching the spring so I can't say if it was that way before I removed it. I had to stretch it a bit to get the needle nose in the top spot to get the end of the spring off it, so I may have done that. I don't think it was that way, but I now know that the side 2 holed timing inspection cover is not the one that matches the gasket, so I suspect somebody was in there before I was possibly, so I supposed its possible. I'm going to check for a rub line at that contact point, and that should tell me if it was that way or ended up that way because of taking the top end off.
Yes, the spring being on the outside of the lever WILL DEFINITELY cause the rpm problem..
DONT LOSE the peg and spring that’s on the other side of the spring.. I always wrap it around the main gov spring a coil or 2..it’s easily misplaced..
I put all parts in a Ziplock, and then put that in a closable bin. That peg was why I decided to do that.
So, today I checked the Ziplock bag, and sure enough that little peg is not there. I have not moved the tractor, and have a telescopic magnet, so Ill have to do some searching tomorrow. I did drop a acorn nut that day, and because of the bottom skid plate, it can be very hard to find anything down there, but Ill do my best. Btw, I checked the throttle spring very closely, and it seems impossible for me to have caused it to be outside the throttle arm. It takes a lot of force to make it go past the tip of the throttle arm. It is a pretty tight spring, and I now have to think it was that way, which would certainly be wrong, and explain the issue. Now, looking at the spring, I can see a small flat spot perfectly polished right where it would contact the side of the arm, and I Mic'd it, the Spring diameter is .060", the flat spot is .058" deep. It rubbed .002" off of the spring there. It was assembled wrong by whoever took it apart last. I have a reman pump coming from BD Diesel early next week, and this one I am sending to the pump guy to redo. I may talk to him about setting this one up for a Turbo though... Because of our altitude, 8,700 feet, we have 30% less oxygen and 30% less power at this height, so I am considering getting a turbo, to take this 76hp motor that will be at only 53hp up here, back to 110hp, so I end up around stock hp. We bought a 2020 LS Tractor XR4155 with 55hp Diesel with a turbo, and it does not seem to lack power at all. Because of the air compression, the loss is not quite the same ratio.
I don't think you can normally just add a turbo. You usually need different pistons and/or injectors and there's different compression ratios involved too.
I expected to have to do some things to do it, but as I'm reading up on this there are a lot of different opinions on what is needed to do it. Looking into it tonight, I may be able to tune it up enough to offset the loss, or a part of it anyway. Some say it's simply a few parts, and some say it's not worth it. I would have to be sure I have piston cooling nozzles, or I really couldn't do it with this engine. Some 4B's do have them, but not many and not all do. The 4B has a little higher compression then the 4BT does too, but I believe it's only small difference. I read that I can use my engine serial number at Cummins site to see exactly what I have now in detail, so I'm going to check that out. I think it may be wiser to just look into how I can get a bit more out of it, if I even need it and since I have yet to run it with full power up here, I may be fine. Honestly, all I had to compare it with was our Turbo Charged tractor, which weighs about 5 tons and has 55hp, and the dozer very much surprised me with how effortless it seemed to move around and move dirt. Since I am going to have a spare pump, the thought had crossed my mind after speaking to the BD Diesel guy and hearing that the pump can supply the 4B and 4BT in low boost anyway.
The dirt we have up here is so fine, by late summer we are walking in about 3/4" of what can only be described as baby powder like dirt. Every step makes a puff of dirt. Because it's so fine, when it gets wet then re-dry's, it is nearly concrete. We have many spots on the roads that are off-camber, and every winter people struggle in those same places so this summer, I used the backhoe with the tractor to level one out, and it worked, but it took everything it had to do a 25' span, and I'm really needing the dozer to be capable of fixing those areas. That is why I am hoping I'm not down too much on power with it up here and why I'm looking into my options with this motor.
You can't compare a tractor to a dozer. There will be a world of difference when you get full throttle. That's how torque converter trans. work. They need RPM to have full power. I don't know why you need a spare IP pump if yours can be fixed reasonably but it's your decision and your money. Way too early to be thinking about a turbo.
BTW reading from above i´m absolutly sure u´ll never be able to turn fuel up in that pump by yourself, so adding a turbo to the engine will not add power unless fuel is turned up. the best way is the Bosch VE pump. Just find a VE pump from a Cummins 4BT turbo or not matter litle, pretty sure pump is plug and play, then u can adjust fuel output on the outside screw, those lucas DPA are a pain in the ass to add fuel to it. Where i am we have almost none 4Bt´s in tractors , almost everithing is perkins, perkins use the very same Lucas DPA, pain in the ass to tune.... but some perkins came with the VE... thats where things get interesting. The forum member that does pumps , may help u with the VE for your engine, as in US there are tons in tarctors. As any from a tractor will do. Not from pick ups or road veicles as the governor is not suitable for tractors. As for the turboing , it will work if u keep power level´s low, lets say 20% more will do no harm in any diesel. Talking from experience, belive me...
He needs to get full throttle before he even thinks about needing more power. If he has trouble figuring out how the spring goes on the throttle lever, there's no way he's going to be able to figure out installing a turbo.
I found the Little Peg and Spring today. Thanks Mquinista , appreciate the kindness and advice. I'm going to wait until I see how it runs at this altitude with new injectors, lines and a reman pump before I do anything further. Dave, the reason I was looking into my options now is because I did have plans to have a 2nd pump here soon. But, I think Ill just send back the core and get that money back instead, glad you posted. Do you think it's better to sort my plans out after the pump is redone to stock or before? Umm.... I know how converters work, Stall speed, lockup, etc. and it was just a point about the dozer felt far stronger than I expected, and I believe I made that point pretty clearly. I don't know why you have such a negative tone, but I have worked with Turbos, and nitrous, and centrifugal blowers and roots blowers, injectors, fuel pumps, and done the tuning to account for the fuel needs as well. I posted this already. "If he has trouble figuring out how the spring goes on the throttle lever, there's no way he's going to be able to figure out installing a turbo." I didn't have any trouble with how the spring goes on the throttle lever, I had not yet seen how it is supposed to go to know it was not correct when I took it apart. Sheesh. Please, unless I ask for your advice, which is quite unlikely at this time, don't respond to my post. I'm asking those who want to help others, not those who only seek to find error in what others, especially newer to Diesels post. Have a great day!
Mquinista, Is this not accurate info for increasing the fuel for the Cav pumps? I copied it from another forum. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Adjusting Fuel 1.Here is the injector pump we will be working on. The fuel cover plate is in the middle of the injection pump, and has two bolts that are on a slant, holding it on 2. Shut off fuel feed from tank. The valve is assessable from the rear of the tractor, on the left side, at the bottom of the tank. 3. Using an 8mm wrench, remove the fuel cover plate. Be careful to not tear the rubber gasket behind it. Fuel will pour out of the injection pump until it is empty. Looking inside the injector pump, you will see a thick disc with letters stamped on it, spaced out around the outer edge. You will also see the two bolts that hold it in place. 4.You will need to rotate the engine by hand, in order to access one bolt at a time. Remove the first bolt with an 8mm wrench (they are very tight) and use needle nose pliers to draw the bolt out of the injection pump. DO NOT drop the bolt in the injection pump, or you will have to fish it out with a magnet, and it's very hard to do. 5.Rotate engine by hand to gain access to the other bolt and remove it with an 8mm wrench. You may need to use a small screw driver to hold the thick plate up, so that you can remove the second bolt, as it continues to loosen out. 6. Look up above the thick plate, after it has dropped down the splined shaft, you will see a thin plate with four large slots in it, and two holes for the bolts to go through. 7. Viewed from the top of the injection pump (opposite of driven end) rotate the plate with a screwdriver clockwise. You have to do full turns because the bolt holes in the plate have to line back up. 8. Reinstall bolts one at a time. You will need to use a screwdriver to push up on the bolt, and use needle nose pliers to screw it in at the same time. Tighten one bolt down tight, then turn engine over by hand to access other hole. Reinstall and tighten second bolt. 9. Rotate engine over by hand again, and double check tightness of bolts. 10. Reinstall rubber gasket and fuel cover plate, along with the two 8mm bolts. 11. Using a 16mm wrench, crack all of the injector lines on the top of the injection pump open. 12. Open fuel shut off valve on bottom of fuel tank. 13. Bleed air from injection pump by cranking engine over until fuel shoots out of fittings. 14. Tighten fittings back up and start engine. Enjoy your new found power. I have read, that opening up the exhaust on this T6.3544CC Perkins engine and turning the fuel up one full turn, will give you an additional 30 hp. It was also recommended, to not go more than two full turns up on the injector pump if the engine has more than 5000 hours on it. I assume this is because as the injectors wear, they allow more fuel in at the wrong time. So if you keep your injectors good, you can turn it up more, but I would recommend a pyrometer if you want to do this. This was posted by another fellow, on the great lakes coal rollers site. I found it about a year ago, when working on a perkins in a Massey tractor. The instructions seemed a little dicey at first, although well written, and if you are looking at the pump, it makes perfect sense. Up til last summer, it had been the better part of 20 years, since I last worked on a Lucas pump. Funny, I didn't miss them one bit. Good luck with it. ----------------------------------------------------------------
I wasn't trying to be negative. I just think it would be best to get the IP fixed and see how the dozer operates before looking at trying to get more. The comment about the spring was only because it should have seemed obvious it was limiting throttle movement. Maybe it was difficult to see or you needed someone to work the throttle from the seat so you could see what was happening at the pump. Sorry if that could have been worded better. I was trying help you avoid paying a bunch of money unnecessarily.
"I just think it would be best to get the IP fixed and see how the dozer operates before looking at trying to get more." I have come to my senses and am going to do just that. When I posted those pictures of the spring, I posted right from my camera, and had not even looked at them yet, I just got done taking the parts out, came in and posted them wanting you guys to see them because you have a trained eye. The manual would have revealed that to me, but I had just downloaded it the same night. It's kind of funny because this thread was started by a guy who had the exact same issue, with a picture too, and I did not realize that at the time. It's not fun coming into a place and being so new, and knowing little about the main topics, but I have never had too much help, so this time I'm trying to make it easier on myself by reaching out in advance. I will certainly make mistakes, and that is to be expected for me, but that's how I typically learn, which is the usually the hard way. I guess I'm rushing too much, but the environment I'm in has caused things to break that most could not imagine could ever break, and that is why I wanted an extra pump. I have been backlogged for a long time now, so I'm trying to get up to speed on these as soon as I can to have a working dozer instead of a dead dozer. I have been trying to make my post smaller, but I guess I'll explain this fully one time in hopes that others will understand why I am going in fast forward with this, in several directions, and why I'd like to have an extra pump. We cannot get a vehicle out for 1/2 the year up here, and it is extremely hard to get things during that time. We have to keep a spare truck down there, and the neighbors don't agree with our deed that gives us access to all previous through roads, so they built a gate, locked it and now plow the snow in such a way to make it nearly impossible to get through for part of the winter so there are times that I cannot get in or out without great difficulty. The park service denied our application to have access through the park gate for unknown reasons. I have to wait until after May 1st to get the tractor out to be repaired since it stopped moving forward and that puts all my effort into getting and keeping the dozer running until I get that fixed. I have no way to plow right now, and we can get a ton of snow this time of year. We have elderly up here too, some on oxygen, some bedridden, so I have to have plowed roads to be able to get them in and out in an emergency, and we've had 2 of those in the last 3 weeks. Last week, a lady fell off a ladder going into a loft, and she broke 3 ribs, and her upper spine, and I had to get her down the road to get her to the hospital. Luckily, I was able to do that before taking the dozer apart, barely. Others have gotten stuck about 12 times in the last Month, and I'm the one who gets the call to get them out so having a way to plow is extremely important to me, and having whatever parts may fail on hand is equally important to me because it's far easier to prevent them from getting stuck, then to go get them out at all hours of the night. I have extras for everything, and when I first looked up these pumps, there are so many videos, I felt that they must not be too reliable because there are so many rebuild videos. That may not be accurate. but we seem to always have the exception up here. That is why... I was lucky to have a Drag Racing dad who built racing gas engines for 30 years, and I went to work for him at 16, and learned a great deal about machining, welding, programming, engine disassembly, re-assembly, race parts, forged parts, honing, boring, line boring, cam profiles, CNC machining, and anything and everything related to an I.C.E., but Diesels are new to me so I don't have even the basic knowledge about them outside of the short blocks. I hope this explains where I'm at, and again I apologize if I was too pushy. I'm just trying to get this up and running, but I am only looking for some help to save me from bigger mistakes because I can't afford to be down for long here.
No problem. The Cav pumps are pretty reliable in my case. Have had a 1965 MF135 since about 1980. Never had to do anything with the pump except fix a leak on the throttle shaft (I think) a few years ago. I had a friend who's a good mechanic fix it for me in 10 minutes. I knew what parts I needed from the pumpguy and he also told me the kit number because you can't buy the individual parts seperate. There are some people selling a small kit with just the parts needed on e-bay but that's in the US. As far as your neighbor, if you have an easement that allows you to go on part of their property in order to access yours, they can't prevent you from using that access. Just for emergency vehicles is the biggest reason. I would be making a complaint to your local jurisdiction about your neighbor denying access and how they plow the road. People could potentially die because of severely restricted access. I'd also think your insurance could be voided or you couldn't even get insurance if a firetruck couldn't access your residence or property. I've read of some massive disputes over things like this but if you have an easement your neighbor has to honor it. Easements have also been grandfathered in and it's transferable to a new property owner.
I am starting to realize that these pumps are quite reliable, but at first, I thought quite the opposite. Appreciate that info. Yea, we have been through a lot over this in the last few years. We have had this property for 27 years now, but each time people inherit some property connected to the road that goes through the middle of our property, they don't honor the easement because roads go through their (private) property. People come straight through ours every summer, and we offer them drinks if they stop to say hello, but some refuse to do the same so we have been fighting this for a long time. The main Citys records are also a part of the issue, because many deeds are not updated online for the public so we give anybody who ask a copy of ours, but if they can't find it online, they think it's mocked up or void. Recently, a new family inherited the property by the gate. We only have to use that exit during the winter Months, so we just started showing up and cutting through there, and that offended them, so they plowed the snow to block us, and I had to bring the tractor back up, so I fixed the snow to make it possible for us to back up to the gate. Well, I used a spot next to the gate to come up, which I have used many times and the next time I went down, after a big snow, they had blocked the cut through that has been open for years, and put-up a new fence, and then plowed the snow the way I described. We had to get an ambulance to meet us there after that, and those guys could not believe we could not get access to our own property, and recommend we knock down the gate due to the emergency, because they had to walk through that snow and on the side of a hill to get their patient, and they found it to be unacceptable. Since that all happened, which is when I started coming in here, I met the guy who did that, and he told me why he did it, but after speaking to him and showing him the deed, he promised to remove the snow and is trying to get us a key to the gate. That was a week and a 1/2 ago, and it's still blocked. He said somebody was cutting the locks, and stealing firewood, but he seemed to be a nice guy, and has seen me transfer firewood there several times now but I'm hoping he will make good on what he said that day. I have his number, but it's also melting pretty quick right now, and his tractor is not too big, so I'm not even sure if he could move it because most of it froze together, and it takes a lot to move it once that happens. I'm hoping for the best, but the Sheriff was called, and he said that it could be criminal if done deliberately, (not that one could prove that) due to the recent emergency(s). We don't want to do that, so I am hoping this guy does what he said he would do soon because it's a nightmare to bring propane tanks, firewood and food up here right now, and that is one of my main duty's here.
The sheriff should be able to talk to him in a non demanding but firm voice explaining he could be charged if something happened to someone or emergency vehicles/crews couldn't get to your residence. It's absurd you've been there the longest and new owners are trying to make their own rules.
Yea, maybe that is a good way to do it, but I feel I need to stall a little longer for some reason. I have a backup option and it involves cutting through a yard that has a vacant house on it. A couple of years ago, I came up here, and went to leave at 9pm, and found out I was locked in, so I found a way to get out through that yard, but they trespassed me for that one, but it's still an option in an emergency. I just can't get back up it because it's too steep.
You shouldn't have to trespass on other land emergency or not.
Thats bull **** and thick... Lucas CAV , DPA pump has no fuel screw ... its some plates that limit injection stroke, its deep inside the pump core, most outfits the window to get access is not visible , cause is on the wrong side of pump. almost always have to remove pump. and if this is not enough the injection system output capacity is very often close to harware limit... BTW even diesel shop guys don´t want to mess with that... Get a bosh VE , preferably one with a 12mm plunguer, from a tractor then u can adjust in a screw.
Ok, good info to know. Ill see how it does when I get it back to running and go from there. Thanks.
I see/read a big problem with the write up on the CAV.. YOU DO NOT have to take out the screws.. just loosen them up.. AND.. tapping the plate “clockwise”.. they ARE NOT THE SAME.. some turn clockwise and others turn counter clockwise (anti clockwise according to Delphi) So NOW your sending the core back.!!?? good thing I wasn’t holding my breath..lol
Is it dependent on the pump's rotation? Can the engine be cranked to see the direction 1st then turn it opposite to add/subtract fuel or am I way off? I really don't want to have to do that, but I would like to know if I have any options to fine tune with this pump. What about all these "Injectors make more power" threads? Is that only for the more tunable pumps?
On the adjuster plate there is a notch.. the notch is where u put your “tool” (screwdriver) to turn the plate.. there are 2 different size notches.. I don’t know how to tell you the difference, I’ve never measured them.. but they are obvious to anyone who’s done a lot of them.. On the deep notched plate, u move it clockwise to increase the fuel.. And the shallow notch plate u move it c.c. to increase the fuel.. IMPORTANT NOTE: the direction of pump rotation is ALWAYS taken from the drive end.. Just out of couriosity, is B&D going to calibrate your exchange pump to your altitude.??
Ok, appreciate the info. Saved. Yes, B&D asked me those questions when we spoke, and I told him the altitude, and he wrote that down for the guys to make sure they know it's a high-altitude, no turbo app. That's the thing, if it shows up here not setup for this altitude, I don't want to have to remove it and send it back to Ca if I don't have to.
Quick update, The reman pump was sent out today and should be here Thursday. It was 55f here today so the snow is no longer a problem, but it's coming back from Friday on. Not sure if I'll have time to put this one back together or not, but I'm still planning to. Tomorrow will be 48f or so, so it is nice weather right now and this time of year that is very unusual. I'm going to read up a bit and see how it goes but if this pump is ok, I may leave it in and keep the reman as my spare. I now have new injectors, the new lift pump (Cummins), and I have new lines coming too. So, we'll see how the next couple of days go.
I did put it back together today, and it runs the same. No leaks, and I primed according to a good vid I saw and it started the 2nd try. It has a tiny bit more RPM, but that's it. It still barely moves out of its own way. I did not do the lines or injectors, just the pump and lift pump. I get the lines tonight, and the reman pump also. I drove it around a bit, just to see but it's pretty much the same. No power really. I had to adjust the linkage for the throttle, so Im pretty sure it was outside the arm the whole time. We are about to get some snow, so I have been working on the tractor all night, and I was able to get it to go forward again, by pulling reverse backwards. That tells me it's linkage, but the guys I usually have here with me were gone today so I had nobody to press the pedals so I could watch it underneath. That will cover this snow, and buy me some time to take it slow and easy putting the pump on, lines and injectors. The rubber fuel line from the tank is so old, and I can crush it with so little effort, and I can't see how it can handle any fuel flow over idle. I did not have a chance to look the length of it to see if it's collapsing, but it almost has to be. It's the worst I have ever seen. I have 10' of new line coming tonight with new SS clamps. I'll be changing the line tomorrow first, then test again. It starts, restarts and idles perfectly but won't go over 1/3rd throttle. I'll update when I change that.
Is the throttle arm moving to full throttle? Did you get the spring on the right way? It's too vague to just say it won't go above 1/3rd throttle.
The Pumpguy told me a good way to put it back together, so I did what he said and it pivoted perfectly, and made it easy to keep the spring correctly on the throttle arm. What I'm saying is, I can rotate the throttle from idle to full throttle smoothly and I even adjusted the throttle limit farther to see if that was off, but after about 1/3 throttle, even though the arm moves freely, it does not give any more fuel to the motor. I have to replace the bad fuel line and then test again. It takes so little force to collapse that line, it very well may be sucking itself closed after 1/3rd throttle. I have the line now, so depending on the weather, I will be doing that next then trying again.
I also changed the rear filter just to see if it could be clogged, but there was a very small amount dirt in that.
I changed the fuel line tonight, no difference. I let some fuel run out the nipple on the tank shutoff valve when I had the line off just to make sure it flowed normally, and it flows just fine. I do have the pump now, but we are under a winter storm and are getting a lot of snow, so I have been plowing all day and night and plan to setup the dozer to get ready for the pump, injectors and lines when I get a day to do it.