ok guys I just finished putting a new Pressure Control valve in the pressure control unit last week.. and I had to buy a new 45 degree Elbow fitting that was 75 bucks that goes to the loader circuit as the old one kept loosening.... did I do it right? I threaded it all the way in and had to back it off 1 full turn.... to set the fitting in right and then I turned the nut down and I guess that pushes the O ring in place so now I wanted to do the O filters.... the rings are bigger then the seat on the filter housing... John deere says this is the right size its just tricky to put on... this seems BS... as if u try to tighten it up she pushed out of the groove and sits outside of the filter housing I almost have to cut the O ring remove a section and re glue it together or do you guys have ideas as this cant be right can it??? here some pics
It's been a long time but if I am remembering right, what you need to do is place the seal inside the housing and get it sitting square and flat, then rotate and wiggle the canister as you tighten the center bolt so the canister slips inside the seal ring.
hmmm but even then if you put the seal in the housing it wont have anywhere to seat as I cant compress the ring as it will still push out?? here I found one of my old rings I pulled out of garbage you can see it has a little bit bigger but not as much as the new one so now I not sure
so first pic is the Old o ring I pulled out of garbage 2nd pic is the new O ring... that's why I I cant see to get it to seat and I not sure if trying to get it to seat up in the housing will make it seat properly? this backhoe is that old I guess eh?
Seventies I think, or early eighties mebbe...
ah ok so JD asked me to measure it very hard to measure the O ring but I roughly measured new one is 5 7/16" and old one is 5 5/16" frustrating lol as I cant shrink this O ring almost have to cut old a section and crazy glue it together
so john deere said its the right ring you just need vasline... I told them I spent 2 hours + trying to get 2 O rings on this isn't right here is a video I made for JD you can see the O Rings the original one I had on there and the new version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gQSKqU_Gms&feature=youtu.be so youll say that's the right size even though its bigger then the housing
Don't know, you don't show the housing, just the can. You have to lay the o-ring flat in the housing (head) and then install the can into it. Grease helps. If it won't fit, it won't fit, wouldn't be the first time Deere or one of it's vendors screwed up. If the old rings are still pliable stuff them back in there or: WIX numbers for the filter: 51147 and just the seal ring: 15318 or 15595 you should be able to order some from any decent auto parts house, they can cross reference to whatever brand they carry.
ok my bad I was calling the "can" the filter housing that holdes it in place reason I say it it should fit on the lip of the Can.. as if it doesn't fit on the lip its going to leak as it has to sit on that ledge and not outside the ledge as its going to slip out if I put it in the housing as when you push the can on as you say... its going to push out since the O ring is bigger then the lip of the can there is no way to make it fit right? its very frustrating lol and I cant find the old other o ring ill have to find where I put it unless it went into recycling lol
The lip on the can only serves to stop you from crushing the seal, it meets up with and tightens against a flat surface in the head. The seal fits inside the ID of the head and the the outer ring of the can compresses part of the seal, there is a small gap around the can but it's not wide enough for the seal to push out with the bolt snugged up, UNLESS for some reason there's a malfunction causing too high a pressure inside the filter. Coat the seal with some thick grease, clean the head with some spray cleaner and let it dry, then try to push the seal ring into the head working it around so it sort of compresses a bit and lays flat without any bulges. If it will then you're home free, if it continues to bulge out then it would be best to try and find some different seal rings.
ok ill give it a try the new ring will fit into the "housing" that's on the backhoe all the way around pressing tightly to the outside of rim but what I guessing is as you seen in the video the new oring is bigger and you can push it ouside of the lip all I can think of is these cans don't have a big enough lip since the orginal o ring is smaller and the bigger one is bigger and can be flipped outside of the cans ledge that it needs to sit on to seal. as that's the part its coming off of the spot the o ring needs to sit on and seal it sits outside of the outside diameter of the ledge... re take a look at my video very frustrating lol as I don't think the o ring is supposed to sit right tight on the housing
so im guessing looking at the O ring on the can that really the O ring doesn't sit on the lip to compress it has to sit half on the lip and half outside the can housing as this ring doesn't fit you can flip it off the edge of the can
I uploading another video doesn't the stepped up lip on the can go on the inside of the rim of the housing... or does the Stepped up part on the can sit on the lip of the housing.... cuz then if that's true then I been doing it wrong that its ok for the O ring to be much bigger then the cans lip
Do you by chance have the part number of the ring that John Deere gave you. You can verify it's the right number by looking up the parts you're working on at jdparts.com
Should be R34733 according to the parts book, newest number.
If you look at the picture you can see that the seal is stuffed up into the corner all the way around inside the head. Towards the center just inside the seal is a flat surface that the end of the can tightens up against. The seal is squished between the can and the head in two directions, it can't squeeze out. The only thing that matters is that the seal can lay inside the filter head flat with no bulges or irregularities before you install the can with the filter in it. When tightening the bolt you just have to make sure to wiggle the can a bit and rotate it so you're absolutely sure you haven't pinched the seal under the end of the can in one spot.
Just throwing in my 2 cents but I used to have the same problem with the fuel filter on our 81 JD 410. Every time I changed the filter the new O ring was way too big to stay in place and this used to drive me crazy trying to get the darn thing to stay in place until you tightened the canister. Oh I used to curse the idiots who designed such a stupid thing! Out in the bush somewhere trying to change that contraption with snow falling, etc. I just got into the habit of using the old O ring all the time! Never did use the new stretched version! And I too thought of cutting the new one to remove a piece but knew I could never get it to seal after that! Finally sold the darn thing and I swear every time I drive by I can see the poor devil fumbling with those big useless new O rings on the filters!
Hi just replaced my filters on my 310a, you have to put the O ring in the head it will fit in there then carefully put the can and filter on. As you tighten the bolt with a light MAKE SURE the can slips in the filter head which will seal. Just a note I bought Baldwin filters for this same hoe and they don't give you the O rings Jeff
Would anyone know if the accumulator on 310a is not working would that give you vibration in that high pressure line?? I have had this machine for long time and it has always made this noise when nothing is being operated,loader, hoe. I had assumed that it was the pump but when you put your ear to it with a screw driver it is quiet. I did check to make sure there were no steel lines touching anything. When I shut the engine down I can turn the steering wheel maybe half or one full turn. Don't know if I should rebuild it or not thanks Jeff
due to all these replies I guess it makes my video irrevelant now and you showed a pic of my filter housing I took in past to show the old filter o ring in there its just something you don't see that the canister that the o ring wouldn't sit flush on it.. and that's hwy I guessing it will sit half and half .... half outside the canister and half on the canister ledge but here is my video I took. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN6eafCcjXo&feature=youtu.be it seems irrevelant now since you guys said lay it in there and it holds perfectly in there etc I appreciate all the help
so I got them installed so far no leaks I wiggled them as I tightened the nut down added 2 pails of tdh and gonna add just water to the rad system as I probably have to pour it back out as im sure the pump in the tranny is bad reason I have no hydraulics or it was a damaged orifice that sits in the pressure control valve that I replaced now was nothing in there as then ill have another topic question lol
Hi that feed pump in the transmission is a gear pump which i have been told is the last to fail, I would look somewhere else before I split the hoe in half.Anything work at all?? Jeff
Probably just needs a recharge with gas if it works at all. When they go bad they don't work at all, but they do lose charge over time. I think it's mainly for the brakes.
ah ok its because 2 yrs ago I was using the hoe and then boom all the hydraulics stopped working... yet I could drive it out of my field... then was told it could be the tranny pump that charges the main pump pressure pump or its the main pressure pump but I started to tear it apart to take the tranny apart but I read about the pressure reliefe valve.. and you guys helped me pull that apart and I replaced the valve as the insert in the valve was missing maybe that was the only thing... I do know couple years ago the hyrdraulics are weak as sometimes it cant lift itself unless you do one side at a time for the outriggers etc... but I going to test it tomorrow and how would you recharge the transmission pump you mentioned just needs a recharge? and do you guys know what the pressures should be on the main pump there is 2 pressure gauge inlets I been told a charge pressure and the pumps pressure you guys wouldn't know the pressures?
comet424, No, I was responding to Flyingpssage's question about the accumulator.
oh ok what is the accumulator? so I have good news bad news and things I not even sure lol so I got the pressure control valve insert and all that assembled... I got the 2 oil filters installed... plumbed in any hoses and got it to fire up.... works after 2 yrs sitting.... I got the hoe and out riggers to work she works not bad lifted the backhoe in the air and such not the best.... then had a oil line blow off on the bottom of the oil cooler due to forgot a clamp in there lol so I got more oil and today I put the gauge on the Inlet I got 50 psi idlying and when I reved engine to 1500 (15) it was at like 120 psi but if you let the backhoe run at 1500 for 10-15 min the PSIs actually dropped below 100psi? and at idle was below 50 psi ... what does that mean here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuG7xgemJD0&feature=youtu.be here you can see the PSIs have dropped after 10-15 min of running at 1500rpms https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwJOu0DSCOg&feature=youtu.be now the hydraulics wont work... at low or high... if I move the levers in the one direction side ways I do hear a buzzing or so but nothing and 0 psi here is video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhqzhhu0QfE&feature=youtu.be now I figured cuz I added more oil then the the dipstick it was the reason it wasn't working... as I over flowed it but figured it would go in the hoses so I not sure
Oh forgot to add turning steeribg wheel was tough as you can see in video And since pressure dropping let me guess the screen or filters is plugged. Not what I wanna hear
I would guess, and it's only a guess... that either your new pressure control valve is stuck open, or the pump stroke control is not working. Something happened when that oil line blew off and I'm guessing I would check the pressure control spool first. Your inlet pressures are probably fine, wouldn't get worried about that at this point.
Hmm and it was return line from oil cooler on bottom where its awkward thats where blew off but when I fixed that hoe still worked Just yesterday not working. So how can I test control valve at back pull out cap spring washers drain oil. And push my finger in thereto see if it moves? As for stroke what you mean and can I fix that So do I need to split backhoe to replace pump in tranny or is that ok
I was thinking maybe floating part in there since had no orifice in there before I replaced valve. So I not sure. Guess there is no way to flush all lines really
john deere 310a hydraulic filters leaking / backhoe wont move hello i am having same problem as comet with hydraulic filters , its poor design ,they should have used spin on filter. my hydraulics work now that had reverse control vavle rebuilt , but cant get back to move even jacked up back . i need to see how the linkages are connected to clutch , something not right . the backhoe moves a little when put in any gear but its like clutch is pushed in or revere vavle shaft is backwards not allowing pressure to go to reverer clutches .
hello comet424 could you send picture on linkages from clutch pedal to the two armed linkage controler , something is backwards or hooked up wrong on my 310a , my clutch hardly moves when pedal is pressed.
hi Red.. i took a video but i didnt take a video of the other side on the Brake side and i cant now its raining so hope this somewhat helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wfin3uo6P0&feature=youtu.be
as for my problem i was trying again i was just tapping the pressure control valve housing and the pump housing with a hammer but still no hydraulics but the steering is harder to steer and if the valve was stuck wouldnt i automaticlly get full no problem steering? instead of havign to turn it harder to get it to turn would that mean the pump is blown?? and or can i not adjust it to get the pressure up?
john deere 310a hydraulics / clutch movement linkages hello thanks for video of linkages! the linkage that moves clutch is barely moving ? my hydraulics would not work unitll i had the reverse control box rebuilt at local hydraulic shop. mine was spraying fluid out bad ,new gaskets and piston , also make sure you dont have 12v going to pump after it starts ,will not build pressure.
It looks like you have zero pressure at the pump, no pressure = no steering. As red68racer says, which I forgot about... make sure if you have a solenoid valve on your hydraulic pump, or a manual valve stem to screw in, that there is no power to the solenoid or the valve is fully open. The regulator valve will dump oil back to the transmission case if there is too much pressure, which is actually never supposed to happen with the pump design, but it's that way just in case. If for some reason the valve moved too far and stuck open then you won't get pressure. The other possibility is the pump is not pumping any oil, if that's the case there may be an issue with the stroke control valve which is bolted onto the pump head. I am fairly sure this is not an adjustment issue, it's a serious malfunction somewhere. Also pretty sure it's not the transmission pump as you still have pressure on the inlet side of the pump yeah?
john deere 310a hello when my hydraulics would not work , went to lowes bought some 1 inch vinyl tubing , few 90 fittings , clamps , hooked to nipple where screen filter is and ran around to where the filter connects so i could see ? also put peices where return lines off pump ,so when i started it up could see fluid moving
sorry for delay been helping a friend move yes my pump has a solinode on the side... so you want my to un hook it?? and i was playing with the screw on the top turning in and out it did nothing i did notice yesterday there was a little pressure it moved up a little from 0 as for the pressure control valve ya i not sure if there is alot of pressure? but wouldnt the spring push it back so it cant jam ? and what does the solinode on the side of the pump do.. someone told me but i forgot and how would i unstick the the valve in the pressure contol valve as i figured maybe the missing orifice in the valve in the previous valve might be floating in there and jammed ... so i not 100% sure what to do?? and ya i still get the 100psi now from other day not sure what i get now on the low side
as for Red... i hope the video helped you ... least you got the problem fixed
ok i figured the problem but here was the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO-ftptmGaY&feature=youtu.be it was the power connector as you see in the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-qReUXtKlA&feature=youtu.be i cant remember since it has been sitting 2 years... do both the pump and charging wire go off that one brown connector as i dont know the other connector... do you guys have a wire schematic... as i got the pump working now once i plug the wire in the other connector and since i adjusted the top wire what is the pressure supposed to be?? once i get the gauge back on etc?
That solenoid valve is supposed to get power only when the starter is cranking, it shuts off the pump to take the drag off so the starter can turn the engine easier. Standby pressure at the pump is supposed to be between 2,300 and 2,400 psi. Here's a link to a helpful sheet: https://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/construction/non_current_products/backhoes/310A.pdf Note the pump inlet charge pressure spec is 55-130 psi at full throttle. Yours is healthy by that standard.
hmmm so which wire should it be wired off then the brown wire or the other wire as if i reverse it then the damn charging light stays on i guess i need multimeter to see if it comes on when the starter comes on? or i need to run a new wire to it from the starter?? the 2300 2400 psi is that at idle speed or 1500 rpms least we getting somewhere better now after all this headaches
so its basiclly working at 1500 rpms i get 2000 psi i loosen that top screw nothing happens even though its a tight do you tighten to increase pressure?
Sounds good. Going from memory you tighten to increase pressure, yes.
ah ok ill try it tommorow i keep loosign oil with the hose as i dont have a special adapter since just a hydraulic hose screwed into leaks so what is a stroke valve i read you have to pull it out and clean it too to increase pressure too?
llooking on the JD site the stroke valve its another atachment to the pump? and there is a filter on the bottom of the pump i take it?? and so is that nut on the top of the pump isnt that the stroke valve? oh and what is the plastic line on the bottom of the pump for ? what does it do? and if i wanna clean the screen in the pump can i just remove the 4 bolts and spin the pump or am i going to have to pull the rad out out to undue the coupler and and remove the pump?? as i dont think there is room under there to pull out the screen???without loosing lots of oil etc
The stroke control valve is all built into the head of the pump. The plastic line I believe is a drain for the shaft seal. Unless it's absolutely not working, just leave it be. There is a strainer screen you can clean by removing a plug on the bottom of the head, but there's also lots of fiddly parts in there with it, easy to lose something or get it back together in the wrong order.
oh ok so not worth cleaning screen while pump is on machine as its too awkward then so ill try tightening the top screw then turn it clock wise as at the moment i have it counter clockwise all the way i guess and it was running at 2000psi ill try to tigthen it down to get the 2300-2400 psi at 1500 rpms if it doesnt increase is it still ok to run at 2000 psi thats what i had before i guessing im guessing thats why it cant lift itself easilly without the extra 400 psi?? if i cant get the 400 psi extra i will have to see if i can order a pump its cheaper in usa but that pump here at john deere is 3500 canadian dollars and with our dollar so bad too lol but ill give that tightening down soon
oh i was reading some other articles when they talk about the SUMP with the hydraulic pump what is a sump? and i read they talk about changing the screen in the resivour is that the screen in the transmission?
i really need the proper adapter with the O ring on these test ports just threading in a hydraulic hose its not good enough keep loosing oil spraying out but i running it at 1500rpm a bit more and just around 2000 psi if i tighten the nut down she does nothing till i get close to end and it goes down to nothing... i release it i get back to 2000psi... i can not get it any higher i guess its good enough for now but it needs a screen cleaning or it be one of those valves or so
Okay, I think that's the destroke screw and not the pressure adjustment then. you'll want to leave it all the way unscrewed. Look at the bottom of the pump head, or feel if you can't see... looking for an adjuster screw with a locknut which will be the pressure setting.
what does a destroke screw do?? so you want me to unscrew it all the way loose or leave it where it just came up to be 2000 psi ? ill look tomorow too dark now
hello comet434 the reverer control box took my hydraulic repairman 4 hrs to take apart clean replace gaskets . i not sure he got it right , the shaft coning out to clutch pivot point moves very little , and now my clutch pedal only moves some, and the shaft that comes out of main clutch/release bearing area hardly moves, dont see how clutch can engage /release properly
hello lantraxco how much does the clutch /release bearing shaft need to move ? i think mine is stuck , hooked linkages up per comets video and double checked jd parts, if i cant get in gear shuttle shift want work .any ideas ?
It manually does what the solenoid does, essentially puts the pump in neutral so it's not pumping any oil. Yeah, screw it back out until it just stops. I think it you leave it in it may limit the pump flow when you're operating the machine, but I won't swear to it.
Red68racer, Sorry, if I ever adjusted that linkage it was in the late 80's and I have no recollection of it. Maybe somebody else here is familiar, or better yet has the manual for instructions. As I recall from the book, you push the pedal down until you hit greater resistance, at that point the reverser should neutralize. If you push it all the way down, the mechanical clutch disconnects the drive train from the engine, which I believe is only to help get her started.
ok i finally got loader on today took 2.5 hours to do it but she on... hopefully i got the hoses hooked up right been 2 yrs lol but here is video of the bottom of the pump that nut do i turn that nut and thats what adjusts the pressure? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL35c7WHG0o&feature=youtu.be
Yeah, furthest away from the camera, you got the big fitting nut, the small nut up against it which is the jam nut, and the screw sticking out just a thread or two. Loosen the jam nut, the adjuster screw will be either allen which I think it is, or possibly slotted for a screwdriver. Go half a turn at a time tighter and snug up the jam nut each time before checking with your gauge. If the pressure doesn't change don't go more than a turn, you'll have to look for other problems.
oh ok why what happens if you turn more then 1 turn i gotta try to get a new fitting i read the side ports use a 3/8" -24unf fitting and i just been screwing in my 1/4" hyrdaulic hose with gauge on the end.. no wonder it always leaked out the oil testing lol.. but it worked today snow good thing i worked till 10pm last night just to get the hoses hooked up etc
I'm just saying that if the pressure doesn't come up as you adjust, stop and look for another problem. It's a fairly common thing on systems with gear pumps for people to screw the relief valve adjusters all the way in trying to get the pressure up when the problem is a worn pump or a bypass somewhere. When it gets bad enough they finally fix the actual problem the relief valve is still screwed all the way in and something breaks the first time they fire it up due to the now high pressure.
ok thats not a problem i just asking thats if i can even get an allen key or what not in there ill have to try a mirror tommorow and try.. so just turning it like a quarter turn should bring it up to pressure right and what worm gear? or what relief valve would that be on the pump or the pressure control valve i replaced... and new o rings on the relief valve where the oil filters are on? also do you know what the 2 sizes of Snap rings? as i need 2 of these U10457 ea. $17.36 U16068 ea. $16.91 i was trying to find the sizes but JD wont tell ya and those are the prices from JD as im sure they cant be that expensive but wanted to know if you guys knew the size?
Part No U10457 Part Name Snap Ring Deere Source 827Y Branch Source T Dlr Pkg Qty 1 Critical Code 52 Year Out C Monthly Ret Ind R Shipping Weight (lb) 0.06 Largest Dimension (in) 4.0 Middle Dimension (in) 4.0 Smallest Dimension (in) 0.1 Shipping Weight (kg) 0.0272 Largest Dimension (cm) 10.2 Middle Dimension (cm) 10.2 Smallest Dimension (cm) 0.3 Part No U16068 Part Name Snap Ring Deere Source 827Y Branch Source T Dlr Pkg Qty 2 Critical Code 20 Year Out C Monthly Ret Ind R Shipping Weight (lb) 0.0099 Largest Dimension (in) 4.5 Middle Dimension (in) 3.5 Smallest Dimension (in) 0.12 Shipping Weight (kg) 0.0045 Largest Dimension (cm) 11.4 Middle Dimension (cm) 8.9 Smallest Dimension (cm) 0.3
ya i seen those... are all those sizes just the packaging it being sent it it doesnt say that the outside diameter is say 1" or the inside diameter is 5/8" as an example as i trying to find equavalent
havent gotten a chance to adjust screw or find what kind it is but another issue i guessing the front shaft seal is leaking... how hard is that to replace can it just come out or you gotta dismantel whole thing in that event it just worth getting replacement pump?
ok I got the pressure up to like 2400 psi or 168kg/cm3 as it idles its lower in this video you can hear a vibration or funny pump sound I not sure if you can hear it right... but if you touch the loader controls slightly the nose goes away but let go she sounds funny..... is that normal? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=130XNvEO0Co and you can see the front seal leaking the oil underneath but I reve up to 1500 I guess it around 168 170.... but I also read somewhere to run backhoe at 2500 rpm I haven never ran it that hight ... they call it work load rpm 2500 here you can see when I reve engine up goes to the proper stand by pressure.. and I don't know how much I turned though as its in an acquired spot was hard to get allen key in there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jScanYJCqxg also the outriggers don't lift the backhoe up fully either with the new higher pressure... the Right side is much faster then the left side when you push them down at the same time... and I cant lift them all the way up gotta still use the hoe to lift up and then push out riggers down... here in video it just shows how high I couldget it without the hoe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJN5A2v4354 as for pump seal leaking can I replace that seal or the seal behind it without pullin everything apart?
Hi I have a 310a and have had it 15+ years now and have always had that same noise. Use a function the noise go's away??? I always thought it was the front pump,I had replaced the round rubber at the coupler which was worn out but the noise was still there. The other day I put a screw driver to the side of the pump when it was running and the pump sound quite normal,but as I went back on that 3/4 high pressure steel line the noise was the loudest at the Y were it go to the accumulator. I don't know much about them I know mine has little nitrogen pressure left in it for when you shut down your engine you should be able to turn your steering wheel ,not sure how much you can get out of it when your off but I can get maybe 1/4 turn one way with the wheel. That accumulator is charged with 500 psi nitrogen gas as I'am told and is there for emerg. steering in a stall situation and to cushion the hydo. system??? So I will remove it and have it charged JD told me 50 or 60 bucks. Of course make sure you don't have any steel lines hitting things like the tractor frame or anything solid. Jeff
hi what does the accumulator do? and what does it look like and how do I test that... when I shut the engine off it makes a funny sound too... ill video tape it tomorrow... like it makes funny sound at idle and the whole backhoe vibrates yet when you kick it up a bit on the rpms then it stops vibrating I need to change the seal on the pump so I not sure if its the inner seal ... so I posting a new thread on asking how to rebuild the pump as well