First time caller. I saw the other post from Johnp which explained the orings on the actuators and his fixes for loader valve. At first I thought it was also the actuator o rings leaking. After replacing with varios wipers and new orings These seem to be not leaking now. I think it is the interface between the valve plates. Three bolts appear to hold this altogether vertically. I tightened them but they were anlready tight from factory. Paint intact. 2 hydraulic lines are entering the top from engine side and one at the bottom. It is possible im seeing some leaking at the bottom hose connection as well. But definitely seepage between plates. I can’t seem to find an exploded view that shows a seal. Are there gaskets or seals between loader and curl valve bodies? Anybody do a field replacement? Thanks!! Hopefully photos attach. H .
Welcome to HEF Gmspin . The Deere 310D Husco loader valves use only 1 o-ring between each section. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/2678/referrer/navigation/pgId/2336503 . .
Thanks very much dave. Model 813488 by the way. Will follow up if that works. That was not intuitive on the side view that it was an o ring. Thanks for helping me read this drawings. Learning. Thanks.
Those tie bolts need to be torqued to spec if over tightened the valve spool may bind. I believe there are two different diameter tie bolts also. Diesel Dave may be able to furnish you the toque specs, also there are some check valves and spring between some sections if my memory serves me correctly. They can easily fall out on disassembly.
You are correct Steve, two rods are 11/16" nuts and one is 3/4". I was barely able to nudge the tie bolts, which are factory torqued with a spanner and a 1/2" drive ratchet. I will take your advice on reassembly and caution on the check valves and springs. I was a bit worried about that considering i was having a hard time finding the exploded view of "between" valve bodies. (I do have the operating and shop manual and parts manual. 3000 pages--but not always helpful!) I cycled the beast this weekend with replacement "orings" instead of wipers and it works ok, but you are right, the spools seem to be tighter, and between the valve bodies appears to still be leaking. I'm not happy with the O rings/aftermarket wipers in johnp19 post as the combination is too thick and deforms the upper plate on the shaft end of the spool plate. It also seems to space out the lower/lower spool cover too much. A gap remains at the interface. I spent more time on orings.com and found several aftermarket seals matching the sizes specified by John Deere in DDave post above. I ordered both metric and imperial versions to see which worked better. I ALSO found some XSeals that appear very similar to the original wipers for this loader valve. Will post what fits. Thanks for the support! googling torque specs for husco valves. I found one instance where the Husco 6000 valve has both the 3/4" and 11/16" wrench requirements for their tie bolts. 3/4": 74 +/-8ft-lbs 11/16": 48 +/-5ft-lbs If anyone can confirm these torque requirements for the AT164552 loader valve, it would be immensely appreciated! cheers Garry
Use those torque values and check. You should be able to move each spool in and out without it binding. If it does bind, Loosen the torque a bit but keep it even between all 3 bolts.
Sorry, I do not have the tie rod torque specs. Maybe @mg2361 can provide the Husco loader control valve tie rod torque specs. 310D , last 6 digits of serial # 813488 .
The specs the OP posted are the typical specs for the Husco valves with two different size tie bolts, however, the Deere repair manual for this machine states 40 lbft for all 3 bolts. When tightening, make sure to tighten in increments (I use 15 lbft increments), and not all at once to help prevent binding.
Gents. Sorry for the delay and appreciate this forum immensely! I replaced the large orings between the valves bodies. They fit perfectly and were the exact same size and durometer as T118165 by Diesel Dave. But from the O ring store B70238. For those trying to do this at home, I removed the entire step and battery housing and moved the shroud next to the wheel back as far as possible to access the bolts just in front of the wheel with 1' of extension. Otherwise the step is a challenge to get off. Once you have the step off, I loosened or removed several hoses to give it some flex. Once you unbolt the upper valve body from the frame, there is enough movement to remove the center valve body completely as shown in the photo, and hang the top valve body to give you some access. Be careful as there is a spring and shuttle on the bottom of the middle valve body that will pop out as Steve Austin kindly mentioned above. I also reinstalled the old wipers on the spool pieces as I was not happy with the O rings I ordered from before. These actually seem to be fine and not leaking. I carefully cleaned everything off and reassembled using 15ftlb increments up to 40ft lbs on all three tie bolts. Started it up and exercised both dump and lift. Still seeing clear dribbling between top and middle valve body, best I can tell. Loosened all three tie rods to finger tight and started it up, hoping to flush any debris that may be between them. I was fully expecting a bath, but no fluids came gushing out from between the plates despite there being a 0.030" gap between them to accommodate the non compressed new orings. I was not able to cycle anything because it wasn't getting pressure. Which clearly means I don't understand the internal workings of these and the shuttle was not sealing somehow... Anyway, as it was running, I tightened them back up again, circular pattern up to 40ft lbs. My wife raised and lowered, dumped with no problem after retorquing. But still dribbling. I went ahead to the 75/48 ftlbs listed above for the large and small bolts respectively. no change, still leaking between top and middle valve body. The sliding mechanisms/spools seem to work fine, and there is no binding that i can tell. I re assembled the step, and resigned myself to defeat. Head hung low, Tore out out some trees, and unloaded a 3000# load of landscape timbers with the loader to test it. Same leaks as before, probably dribbling a quart an hour I would guess. Disappointed but hoping ya'll have some pearls of wisdom. I hesitate to go to a liquid gasket, but I also want to be able to use this thing without a diaper. cheers garry
Thanks MG. Admittedly, I had my Dad take this photo early on as I was elbow deep. It was just after I had cracked it open. I hosed it all down with brake cleaner to try to get it cleaned off before re-assembly. Further, I did not crack the upper cap you are pointing at. only the bottom two. I completely dis assembled both spools behind the lower two caps and re assembled with the old wipers. (side note, the lowest cap seems to have a small gap between the plate and the cap. I have reassembled several times to see why it is bottoming out and even retracted the spool to try to get it tightened up. Still maybe a .020 gap there, but not leaking) The main fluid flow is on the front side nearest the rod bolt in the photo above. sort of a continuous waterfall coming off of that face, but between the middle and upper blocks. There is likely fluid flow on the tractor side as well as it is dripping from both sides. Maybe next go round is to get some emery cloth or steel wool and get the rust and grime off completely. Have any of you experimented with perhaps some plumbers grease to lightly lubricate the o ring groove and o ring? Or some assembly lube for engines? Not anything too stiff as to prevent proper torqueing? A crack could make sense. It is easy to get the center block out for detailed inspection, but the top one has the two main hydraulic lines coming in and is hard to get to for removal/inspection. The bottom one may come out like the center by removing the hoses and back bolt connecting it to the frame? Prepping for round three... now it is a matter of pride. This leak developed after me running it for about 200 hours (new owner) and it has 4400 on it. Otherwise, amazing tool! Again sincere appreciation for guidance and consultation! G
A gap on the boom spool cap is normal. I also highly recommend complete valve removal if you are resealing. I never reseal in place. Too much risk of contamination.
Many times, I have been misled about where the leaking is coming from in hydraulics. I have taken my loader valve block apart 3 times before I realized it was a damn set screw plug that was leaking. The O-rings have over 40 thou to seal and do their job. Very rarely is it the Orings leaking, it’s usually a crack or something else.
Thanks MG and HH. Obviously trying to do my best in the field and will need the big kid wrench set to get the top block off of those hydraulic hoses. pearls of wisdom here appreciated on the top block removal. HH, which "set screw plug" are you referring to in your endeavors? many thanks! It will be #3 for me too. MG thanks for the comment on the 0.020 gap on the boom spool cap being normal. It was driving me crazy. I will also check the cap you point out in the photo above. Any sealants or lubes you recommend for the o rings or just "get it clean"?
Absolutely NO sealants. A little grease is OK on the o-rings, but not necessary for the "between section" O-rings. Lube is recommended for O-ring's on moving parts.
Set screw plug was on a 450 ton hydraulic press valve bank. I had to set up staging 3 times, as the valve bank weighed close to 200 pounds. I was so sick of pulling it off, thinking the o-rings were leaking between the valve and manifold. I was getting ready to deck the manifold, thinking it has to be warped and a machinist square confirmed it was slightly warped but within oring limits. So on the third time I looked around the back of the valve bank and there was a 3/8”x24tpi O-ring plug that was finger tight. It was leaking about 15 gallons a shift and I was sick and tired of cleaning up hydraulic fluid every shift. We tried the dye process but it was leaking so bad, the dye was just everywhere. LOL
I'm adding this section of the manual which is the diagram of the loader valves. I wish it had the magic o ring plug mentioned by HH, but there are a lot of opportunities and O rings which will still be checked, but hopefully this helps someone else. One error I see is the loader priority valve on PN470 does not have the the third tie rod hole which is curious-the others do. Maybe i'm missing something. I now see the gap on the boom valve cap mentioned by MG on page 474, and I'm realizing I probably loaded the backup rings for the spool wipers backwards as it appears the lip faces out in these drawings. Hoping this leak is coming from the Spool cover on the loader priority valve as mentioned by MG in the beginning. Or maybe the system relief valve. There are a lot of orings there! Thanks in advance. I will use some nice assy lube on the next round for the spool pieces. And a pressure washer before I start. Sheesh.
Good Morning! Thanks Harley for the encouragement and MG for the guidance on sealants AND full removal. Tore it out and took it to the shop. Soaked parts the parts in cleaner and compressed air etc. Much more satisfying than the field. Turns out Harley was about right. It was the steering supply port O ring leaking. The bottom quarter of the O ring disintegrated when I took it apart. Ironically, the first disassembly found the cap on the opposite end of the same spool that had an O ring issue as well. The supply port is toward the back of the machine, so it was not visible to see it leaking there. It now makes sense it appeared to be leaking between the top and middle block since the steering supply is on the upper end toward the back of the machine and was supplying a constant stream of dribbles to the whole interface perimeter. For reference, the oring for the steering supply port and the cap on the other end among others is below from the O ring store. $6 for a hundred, so if you need a few, let me know and I will put a stamp on some and send to you. 100 x AS568-020 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring (B70020) SO, my last question is I got a little carried away with disassembly, and when I took apart the steering load sense relief valve, I lost count of the number of turns to screw it back in. Sheesh. Any guidance on this for a field adjust? (note, MG, I noticed you commented on this in the post: "JD 310C has no steering" back in 2020, but hoping to get some adjustment guidance). I have copied the relevant section in the manual describing the function of this sense relief valve: To limit steering system pressure a steering load sense relief valve (S) is built into the priority valve. When the operator steers the machine fully the steer cylinder will bottom against the steer stops. Pressure in the Load Sense Circuit will increase. When the pressure in the load sense port (b) increases enough to push the steer relief valve (S) poppet off its seat, oil in the load sense circuit flows to return. Load Sensing pressure is limited to the pressure setting of the relief valve. I'm guessing: to adjust the steering load relief valve, If machine steering bottoms out and the hydraulics whine a lot, then it is too tight, and back off on the screw. IF I'm not getting enough pressure to steer, then crank it down a bit?? Many thanks to the forum. Reassembling this weekend. Finally, I hope. GM
Yes that is how to increase the pressure on a pressure relief valve. I like to set with a gauge but by ear if you bottom out steering and it bypasses, you should be good to go.
Thanks Harley. Re install went well. No leaks so far! 150$ of hydraulic fluid, and a 0.05$ o ring! Can you share your wisdom on setting with a gauge? do I install a gauge at the "inlet gauge port A" which currently has a plug shown in photo, two posts above? What pressures am I aiming for to set the steering load sense relief? Many thanks! GM
Yes if it’s convenient. Depending on what your system relief is supposed to be, you would hit your steering stops and slowly increase pressure to relief setting and it should hit the relief within 100 to 250 main relief setting.