I've had my 310SJ a couple of years. The Converter seems weak to me. The engine goes to full rpms and it does not seem to have the power that it use to. I have the service manuals. I have not seen a definitive test procedure. My test: pull up to a pile of dirt that I know cannot be pushed, full throttle and watch tires in 4x4. They do move but slowly and then stop. Tried first and second if I remember correctly. You guys got a better test? There is a slight slight possibility of not exactly the right fluid in it. I think it was J-20C but, it came from Carquest.
I should have said the Converter seems weak now . It use to have more power.
If you have the Operation and Test manual for your serial number the procedure is in 9025-25. Trans temp at 165-185*F (75-85* C), foot firmly planted on the brakes, park brake off, 3rd gear forward, full throttle. Spec varies depending on the engine tier level.
To add a little bit of info for understanding, the spec mg2361 is referring to is engine rpm. Check the engine rpm at high idle with no load and then again when you stall out the converter. You should lose a couple of hundred rpm when stalled out. I also watch the torque converter temperature gauge and see how fast the temp rises. As I recall yours is a newer tractor so it might have an air cooler instead of the water to oil coolers of the past. On the new stuff, the temps might not rise at all while on the old style machines it will come up slowly and drop down quickly if the torque and systems are working correctly. Depending on the machines, I will also stall out the hydraulics at the same time as the torque and check engine RPMs again. On most machines the engine speed will drop around 500 rpm or more. That test will give you an idea of the horsepower your engine is putting out. You should check all the cheap stuff first as your description sounds more like an engine power problem than a torque converter issue. Air and fuel filters plus strainers have driven many a wrench to partaking in alcoholic beverages.
That trans is the heart of the machine. I usually am not one of those JD oil only guys but in this case I strongly recommend you drop that fluid out and get the oil JD specifies. I would suspect that trans from JD if you can get, would be $20K new.
Sorry. I missed that in the manual. I will do the procedure and get back to you. JL Sargent, I fully agree. I have purchased the HY Guard and a new filter. If I read the manual correctly I can only get 2½ gallons out and the Converter does not have a drain hole...
I thought of one other thing. When I performed my red neck test at the pile of dirt, I had my foot planted on the accelerator pedal pushing in 4x4. The rpms were steady at 2400 if I remember correctly. No rpm drop. When I lifted the fel there was an rpm drop. I will do the test procedure tomorrow. Thanks guys.
I did the first part of the test procedure today. With the machine in 3rd and full throttle the rpms were 2160. This is well within spec. I am going to change the fluid and filter but, I think the converter is ok. Recalling when this first started happening, the fuel filter had been changed. There was no immediate change but after days of running the machine stopped performing as it had been. I blamed the converter. It very well could be a simple engine problem. I appreciate all the input I received here.
I would check the air filter. Inspect turbo. All kinds of possibilities.
If you perform the combined stall and you are still in spec is is not an engine issue. Just make sure your hydraulic and trans temps are at spec when performing that test.
I think the tests that I ran gives the engine and the tyranny a good bill of health.. It seems there is no problem at all. This is my first machine this big. Maybe I just got used to it. Sorry for the trouble over nothing. I do feel better knowing the converter is in good shape. Thanks guys.