well it looks like i have to replace the seals in my track adjuster on the 320. having never done this on the 320 i thought i would see if any of you have any tricks to complete this without breaking the tracks sn is 5br00839 thanks
If it has enough wear you can push the idler all the way in then push the track off it to the inside enough to slide the idler out. Then with a little monkeying around with various chains and pulling on the right spots pull the track back on. If you have a thumb it helps. Hard to explain but it is easier then splitting the track if you don't have a master pin and have to press it apart.
There have been a couple of threads on track adjusters recently. It all depends if you have the type with the dimple on the end of the adjuster or the type with 2 bolts in it that fasten it to the track frame. Here are a couple of links. I know they are for slightly smaller machines than your 320 but the same principles will still hold true. HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums
Big Iron, see the below post. Mine is 311b, but I suspect your 320 is similar and from my experience, you do not have to remove tracks. In fact, after removing/rebuilding both mine in last 10 days, I think it can be done by only loosening tracks a small amount. You certainly should not have to remove the idler - unless your 320 is significantly different than my 311b. Respectfully to all, Stacy Whetzell HeavyEquipmentForums
Big Iron, you might want to check out this slightly later post HeavyEquipmentForums Best Wishes slwbid
One thing to be sure of, and one reason for grease lose is track has got too much wear and letting seals get to close to end off adjustment. A small amount of wear in each pin adds up. Check and see how far idler is extended out. If you need to cut track to remove link and it has a master pin (has a small hole in center of pin) remove pad, so you can heat pin and rail with a rose bud, cherry red, then pour at least 5 gal. of cold water on it. You can drive pin out much easier by doing this, the cold water locks the surrounding metal while it was hot and expanded. you can then cut next link out( cut the correct part of rail ). Reseal , position idler back on bottom track, lift with whatever you have ( a come-a-long will do) slide in, drive pin back in, replace pad, grease fitting, tighten track. Keep eye on pin and if it moves tack with welder but that shiney metal will rust tight over night. If you every heat a sprocket or a flywheel ring to make it easier to install dont use water, let it cool at room temp. or it will slip. I know this is a late reply but maybe it will help someone in future. Because it works.
This was a Kobelco i resealed not a Cat.