Hello, new to the forum and to Compact Tract Loaders in general. Bought a JD 333G (PIN# 1T0333GMJKF359864) with 3,200 hrs. at auction for use around our farm. Got 2 active codes ECU 108.10 and ECU 102.13. RPMs seem to be limited to 1900. Done ALOT of reading and research via the internet and I'm leaning toward the EGR Pressure Sensor on the Intake being a likely issue. I peeled back the loom on the wires for the Dosing injector as I read in another thread, but didn't find any breaks/issues. Question is.... am I on the right track as far as the EGR Pressure Sensor being bad (or the wiring leading to it)??? AND where the heck is it??? I've seen some diagrams that show it on (what appears to be) the valve cover of the engine. Do I need to the remove the exhaust/DPF on top of the engine to get to it??? Thanks for any help, I've already got a lot of good advice from the historic threads on here, you guys seem to know your stuff....nice for those of us getting started out without a big company budget!!!!
Welcome to HEF JK ! Your most likely issue is the sensor mounted on top of the valve cover on the flywheel end of the engine (and a real joy to get to). But first, make sure the wiring is OK and the connections are clean and tight.
THANK YOU!!! mg2361. Guess I know what I'll be doing for the next few days . I'll try and remember to take some pictures as I go for other's future reference. I'll update when I'm done with results. Thanks again!
Sorry for the slow update, it's been almost a month since my first post, but life (and the holidays happen) LOL! Here it goes.... I disassembled just about the whole exhaust system on the top end of the motor on my JD 333G to get to the problematic EGR pressure sensor. I ordered a replacement sensor from amazon for $100, since the one from John Deere was/is almost $500. Installed it and reassembled everything. Overall (except for waiting for the new part to be delivered) took me about a days work to disassemble and a day to reassemble. She started right up and ran perfect, no codes, throttled up to full speed and everything SEEMED good. Over the holidays I ran the machine and "played" around our farm testing it out for total of about four hours. THEN.... "check codes" came up again three codes indicating EGR sensor again and finally the de-rate code. Attached are some photos of the location of the sensor for reference of other novices (like myself). As for my continuing story, I removed the sensor again (this time going in from the front of the motor). Accessing from under the cab, I removed one of the heater hoses from the heater core and the breather/level indicator hose from the hydraulic tank thus giving me JUST enough room to get a hand in (one at a time) from either side. Took some patience, but was able to remove (the second bad sensor) in about two hours. I broke open both the original JD sensor and the amazon sensor, just to see if I could understand what was happening. The original sensor had some corrosion of the little pins coming in from the plug seeming like the likely cause of the original failure. Also the green circuit board inside the JD sensor was well protected with plastic and a siliconized (???) coating to prevent damage from the heat coming in (I assume).... The amazon sensor was simply the circuit board inside of the housing, NO protection from the heat that comes in from the motor, appeared that the circuit board melted as a result. Moral of the story (so far) go with OE JD parts, even if they are ridiculously over priced. Gonna try one more time to keep the machine as it was from the factory.... if the JD part fails me, I'll be going the way of deleting/tuning. Will update ASAP with the results. Thanks again for the help! Hope this helps others understand a little better.
I think you're about always better off using OEM electrical parts. Even though some are very expensive they will cost you less in the long run. Like buy a aftermarket, it fails shortly, then you have to replace it again, and you end up getting the OEM anyway. I've been burnt like that to. Anymore I just swallow hard and get OEM.
Make sure the terminals in the wiring harness connector are clean as well. I recommend Deoxit. Make sure to follow the directions. I make sure to blow out the connector before final assembly.
contact me if you would like me to remove these dtc's from the ecu to get machine out of de rate.