Just trying to get some of the prep work taken care of before I start to dig into this engine later this summer (3406, 92U prefix). So far I've found I need a timing pin for the fuel pump (pin p/n 8S2291 but it looks like it may have changed up to p/n 6V2112). Just wondering if there are any other timing pins or special tooling needed to do a basic overhaul on this engine. Basically just bearings, pistons/liners, injectors and reseal the front and rear structures. I will more than likely haul the engine to the dealer to have the front and rear crank seals done if they need an expensive installation tool. Thanks ya'll!
The front/rear removal and installation tools are very expensive so I would source that job out or see if someone will rent them to do that work. As for timing pin those are realistic in price and handy to have being you now have that A model. Truck Shop
Is it just the one timing pin that's needed for the pump? I definitely can't justify buying a front/rear seal tool for doing only 2 seals. I'll gladly pay the dealer an hour of labour to install the 2 seals. How hard are the cam bearings to do on these engines?
The flywheel timing pin is a 3/8unc bolt and for the pump you can use the shank of a drill bit. You will want to reseal the precups for which you'll need an 8S0225 tool.
I'm not 100% certain but I think this engine may have been converted over to direct injection. I have looked all over the head and I cannot see any glow plugs or glowplug wiring (I was told the precup engines had glow plugs and the direct injected ones didn't). I will definitely save that part number Cmark in case I need it. Thanks!
I wish my old boss would have belived in special seal tools it about woried me to death but they didnt leak. We did have the timeing pin.
It could be either PC or DI, but both have an adapter which will need resealing.
Respectfully, the A model 3406 uses a 3/8" pin with a stepped down tip for pump timing. A 3406B pump can be timed with a 3/8" drill shank. I can measure my "A" model tool for the OP. I think the tip was .250" diameter for .250" back from the end.
You guys have probably saved me a couple hundred bucks in tooling and a few headaches. Thanks! Think its possible to juice it up to 400ish from 375hp without any major parts changes?
Just give the rack travel and torque rise screws a 2/3 turn, on hard throttle you won't be able to see behind you but it will run a rabbit off the road. Truck Shop
I'm sure chopping 1 diff out is going to help get a few more ponies to the ground too. Although I went from a 5.29 rear to 3.73 so maybe not lol.
I had a pump apart and some how got the rack off. I told the boss it wasnt something i had the skills to do he said it would be ok. It wouldnt start and about then the driver came along and got in it and it started. I ask what he did and he said he pushed the gas pedal down. It seamed ok so he left on a trip. When he got back days later he said that truck never ran like that before with a big smile.