Have a tricky one here, our D10 dozer was running the other day, then either it died or was turned off. The next day went to start and it couldn’t start ended up burning the starter motor out. Have replaced the starter motor. Cranks over fine but there is absolutely no life to it, have run diagnostics and check all fault codes. Have checked signal coming out of ECM plugs. Have checked power and ground for ECM. Computer says engine is only cranking over at 130 rpm
The chaps on here will definitely want the serial number to that D10 before they can get going on it for you. Feel free to post pics as we all love a D10
As Nicky says a Serial Number is necessary. This isn't a HEUI engine by any chance is it.? That's a problem right there. It should be cranking minimum 150RPM and preferably closer to 200.
Those Huie pump motors are a headache
Yes it is a HEUI Engine, I was aware the the injectors won’t turn on until the cranking speed is at least 200 rpm as another dozer was cranking at 150 rpm and wasn’t firing until it had a faster cranking speed
It doesn’t quite work like that. In the ECM there are two parameters, desired injection actuation pressure (IAP) that is calculated by the ECM and actual IAP as measured by the sensor in the cylinder head. The ECM will not activate the injectors until Actual IAP equals or exceeds Desired IAP. You have ET, pull the parameters up on the screen (they are in the Config screen), crank the engine over, and see how they compare. If AIAP never gets up to DIAP then the engine isn’t going to fire. At that point you are down to finding out where you are losing pressure in the HEUI system. Another suggestion would be to pull the electrical connector off the IAP Control Valve on the back side of the HEUI pump and see if the IAP increases at all.
Okay thanks we will have a look at that today, the other thing I’ll mention is, the fuel pressure is down 40%
Even if it is I would be looking at hydraulic pressure in the HEUI system first. Engine S/N is 80M-something I suppose.?
S/N 80M04962
Ah, a good old 3KR tractor with a 1st Gen 3412E engine. I still have nightmares about those things even though it's almost 30 years ago.........
Haha are they that bad? So is there anything else we should be looking for? Have check all the signals coming off the J1 and J2 ecm plugs. They’re all around .7 volts when cranking
In your shoes I'd get ET hooked up and look at DIAP/AIAP while cranking. Depending on what version of ET you have there may be an "Injection Disabled" box in the bottom of the screen that will not go away during cranking until the ECM lights the fires. The early ones were the worst. IIRC the first one I came across in a D10R was in 1995. Must have been something around 3KR400-ish. Your tractor S/N is above 3KR1800, almost one of the last before the Series II D10R AKT-prefix came out.
Okay thanks will have a look at that
When things were nice, we'd change the fuel filter, check for clean fuel and screen, make sure the transfer pump was okay, bleed some air and injector lines, yes the good old days. Didn't need a minimum cranking speed to get fuel etc etc.
Chidog…yes,I know exactly what you mean. Could chuck an injector nozzle in an engine during tea break. The only trimming needed,was if the nozzle was still hot and you dropped it on the floor and you needed to trim a dollop of muck off it before chucking back in the engine!
Sorta like when cars went crazy electronic. For some it can be impossible to know if the problem is the engine, or fuel system, or ignition system, just plain electrical or electronic. A little mouse can wreck havoc on all these electronic devices (all vehicles and heavy machinery) we have now that most always sit in their habitat. The use of tasty electric wire insulation is no help either.
To the OP. Please try to ignore the noises-off from the "when I's". I'm sure when they last refuelled a machine they took on either wood or coal.......... Another thing you could check is the O-Rings on the jumper tubes and in the upstands for the injectors and the hardware for tightness. I've found blown O-rings in the past caused by hardware not being tight. That's the O-Ring #2 and capscrews #3 in the first illustration and the bolts #1 and O-Rings #8 on the second illustration.
These Huie engines seem a complex thing and I was allways advised to not buy one. When I were a lad,ah used to keep a few old injector caps under me flat cap.Ah could shove one up me greyhounds arse on race day in Harlepool to mek the bugger run faster……