Recently purchase a project 450 Case Track Loader (i posted this in the dozer forums as figured it would get more views and this question is relevant to the dozers as well). Serial # is 3027190 which i believe is a 65 model. Everything works, so mainly doing fluids, filters and fixing leaks. The brakes do not work, was told they did not and would not need them. Everything i read on this forum supports that, but i am a fan of having everything that should work work, and will be in hilly terrain. With a almost 60 year old machine anything can happen and i would like to be able to hit a brake (or brakes) if **** hits the fan. I ordered new masters and slaves as a start (hoping to not have to go inside the covers but assuming i will). Installed last night (left side only as waiting on linkage part for right side between pedal and master), and bled the system. When i push the brake pedal after bleeding, the pedal will hardly move down and the slave is not moving. If a come-along the brake lever up and off the slave and then press the pedal the slave does move. It seems things are too tight? There appears to be 3 adjustments. 1, at the pedal/master linkage. 2 on top of the slave appears to be a screw on the lever but the head seems round on the bottom side? 3. a large bolt and lock nut on the 2 piece lever. This one has the 2 piece lever that looks different then what is shown in my service manual....any input? Will try to attach pic. If i wanted to.....could i eliminate the clutch cutout function and run a line straight from master to slave bypassing the cutout? i dont want to steer with the brakes, only want them for oh **** moments....This one does not have the clutch cutout valve and i could not find a seperate bleed screw on the cutout at the hydraulics. thanks, sorry for long first post.
I went ahead and made a new brake line that goes directly from master to slave.Still no movement on the brake acctuator arm. If i take a come-along and pull it up off the slave, the slave functions fine. I am assumming brake internals are just to sticky to be moved via hydraulic pressure and i need to disassemble the brakes and clean/lube/rebuild?
Welcome to HEF, bjbjl6 ! From what you describe the brakes need a rebuild and a good cleaning of the linkages. I put a lot of hours on a Case 450 dozer. Brakes are must have situation, especially on a the loader version. I cannot imagine going up and down a slope, such as cleaning or cutting a ditch without brakes. Do you have the service manual ?
Thanks for the reply Tinkerer. I do have a service manual reproduction (pdf format) that i purchased online. I think you are correct that i am going to need to remove the brakes and clean/rebuild. Was hoping to start simple first (masters/slaves) as there does not appear to be much room to work in this area. Trying to decide how much stuff i want to remove to gain easier access vs trying to work in the extremly tight quarters. How much work involved to remove all body parts (tanks, side panels, frame etc.) as it seems it would be much easier to get to if this stuff could be unbolted together and removed as one unit with a cherry picker.....any tips/tricks for removal of the brake covers greatly appreciated.
It is a nasty and time consuming job, but well worth the effort. I don't have any tips or tricks for doing it. Like most anything such as your brakes, you will see what has to be done as you delve into it. For what its worth -- The speed levers have an adjustment on them so that if the tension on the detents that hold them in position get toooo loose it can be increased.
thanks. i will look at it this evening and decide if i would rather work in the cramped quarters, or attempt to remove the whole "cab/tanks/side panels" out of the way for access. Seems like maybe that stuff would come off fairly easy with a picker.
If you raise the machine off the ground & support it safely with solid timber, & removing the belly plates, you will have a surprising amount of space. Some things still need access from above, but I have never removed the tanks & would never consider that as an option. Depends how big your belly is though....
cool, i will give it a better look from below this evening as well. Luckily i don't have a belly lol! im thinking it might be best to remove the driveshaft to free some room and i feel like i may remember seeing a metal/rubber hydraulic line down there that may be in the way that im assuming feeds the trans? Might need to remove that as well but will look closer this evening.
I was able to get the left side one off last evening. It was pretty well seized up but i have everything apart and soaking now for cleanup this evening. How do i know if the discs need replacement? Does anyone know a thickness they should be? Part of me really wants to just replace with new while in this deep, but looking up part on line the discs are close to $250 a piece. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative? I plan to tackle the right side as well, so 4 discs at $250 is going to be a 1K plus job just in the brake discs.
FYI, shipped the discs to Kentucky Clutch. They think they should be able to rebuild them for +\- $75 a piece. Fingers crossed!
Hopefully they know what they are doing - if the relined discs are too thick - you will have some issues when you put it all back together.
I offered to buy one new from case so they could measure but he said not to bother as he knew what it needed….
Update. Put things on hold as i had some things going on.....rebuilt brake assemblies have been reinstalled, and all plumbing (new masters and slaves and lines) has been installed as well. Now, when i push the pedals the brake arms move! Can someone walk me through the adjustment process? Currently i have just snugged down the adjustment bolt. I dont want to get them too tight and have them drag. Have not measured the movement yet when i push the pedal, but its not much and hard to believe that much movement could actually operate the brakes....Thanks for any tips and trips on adjustment. I want to get them adjusted close before i put the trans shifters, linkages, etc. back on while i have more room.
Update.....Everything worked good for almost a year. Then the machine set for 4 months unmoved and now one of the brakes appears to be locked up. Lesson learned. Dont bother with brakes on a case! Leave them alone.
Back your adjusting screws out and check the alignment of the actuating arms. Check your serv. manual for correct angle the arms.