Hello everyone, This is my first post so go easy on me. I have this machine for farm use and i am trying to take my time and do the brakes right. Several questions i have about the process: 1. Do i have to drop the transaxle to get the inner brake housing off? Evidently the seals are bad on the side the differential lock is mounted to. 2. Can i have the inner brake housing resurfaced. There is some scoring but the grooves aren't deep. 3. The left side brake was working but grabbed badly and sounded like metal against metal. When i removed the outer cover for that side there was plenty of dust but the brake discs were ok. A mechanic told me the springs on the bendix type discs would weaken over time causing the grabbing but that doesn't explain things. It has the dry type brake with the vent hose connections on top and the actuators cylinders are in good shape. Thanks in advance for any reply.
Welcome Bbob! 1) Can't recall doing this on a 480, but it can be done on all 580's without lowering the transaxle - I always assumed a 480 chassis was similar to a 580C (you know what they say about people who assume.....) There are small seals in the side gear for the diff lock - see this thread it's re a 580C - same set up - 2) I have never had a housing resurfaced, dimensions inside the housing are critical - only ever replaced them when real bad. 3) Sometimes giving the housing a good clean & clearing that dust makes a big difference - good to deglaze the actuator & covers with some rough emery paper or mini sanding discs. + make sure the balls in the actuators have clean ramps - no rust/scale
Alrman, is it practical to do brakes on a 580 superK (shifter on the side console) without removing transaxle, or would it be easier to pull it?
Definitely OUT & on a bench!
Ok, that's what I thought, you just said all 580s in your earlier post. I thought maybe I had missed something, thanks.
Sorry Mitch, I probably should have said - "all 580's with the early transaxle configeration" (up to early 580K )
Seal bad on side where diff lock mounts to? I assume we're talking about seal #3?
Actually that seal plus the seal inside the side shaft could be the problem i'm finding. I couldn't get the side shaft seal out so i'm planning on installing another in front of it. I had to take the transaxle loose and raise the machine with the stab jacks to get enough clearance ro remove the inner brake housing.
Need part numbers Could someone point me to the illustrations like the one listed above that have the part numbers listed? I was able to click on a link someone provided before but i haven't been able to find it on the site again. Thx
www.casece.com Place mouse cursor on the Parts and Service link at toolbar near top of page. Click on Search for Parts in the drop down menu. Click on Launch Parts Catalog, just above and left of video demonstration. When parts page opens, type in your machine model number.
Hello fellas i just bought a 2006 case sm 2 and when i press on the breaks they squeal im new to all this guys any help will surely be apreciated thanks
Welcome godinez575! Problem could just be oil. What does it look like? Use Case Hy-trans Ultra & 1 bottle of axle rebuid additive from your CNH dealer.
Thats axle rebuild additive....
Thanks almar ill give that a try ill let u how wat happens
Well, I am to the point of replacing seals and I read somewhere that I could get by without pulling the axle on my 480f to replace the cross shaft seal by just driving another one in on top of the old one. Has anyone tried this? Thx
Yes, another seal can be fitted on top of the other, as long as it hasn't been done already. An installation tool is required to fit the seal - usually a bit of steel or pvc tubing the right size. The original seal can be removed without removing the housing. I have earlier descibed a tool made from an old shut down cable. It is pushed through, between shaft & seal, rotated 90deg to hook the seal casing & given a firm pull & out they come.
That is a nice tool! Great pics alrman.
Great! I was thinking that you were the one who had written about this earlier but wasn't sure airman. Using a flashlight I can see enough smooth space beyond the splines for another seal but if I can fabricate a tool that nice I'll dig the old one out. Really appreciate all the replies.
you can buy dental pick's at your local automotive store tb
Wat other axle aditive can i use since i dont have a near by case dealer. Can i get a substitute at a local auto parts store?
What oil do you intend to use then? - Hy-Trans Ultra is specially made for Case & there is no exact substitute for it. Not saying that you can't put any other oil in it, just saying what I know that works. Do you have a Cat dealer nearby? It may help to start a new thread, as more people may look at it & it saves confusion when trying to refer to this in the future, - you should be able to do that now.
I have the john deere hy guard i changed my trannie fluid with that. I was gonna use that too for my axles or thats a no no?
I can't really say as I have never used JD hy-gard oil. By looking at the JD website & looking at what it is used for - it may do the job :beatsme It says its good for wet brakes - :beatsme - your call I guess. If I put it in & noise was still there - I would be having some CNH oil & additive sent to me.......from somewhere.
Thanks almar im doin the change tomorrow ill let u know wat happens. Wat kind of equipment do u own mr almar
Brake Housing and Seals I'm attempting to load a picture of the brake housing on the right side. It's loose with the shims hanging inside it. I have it removed and had it resurfaced by the machine shop before re-installing.
Picture was turned wrong. Correcting.
Those brake discs from case are $121.00. RAParts has them for $73.00. Has anyone had problems with aftermarket parts. Would you recommend OEM parts only?
Some aftermarket parts are fine & some are just rubbish, I've had both. Brake discs should be OK - Guess you will know in time. Re: machine shop job on the brake housing - did they remove some steel from the outside flange as well as the disc area?
Nope they didn't remove any metal from that flange. Now that you mention it that makes sense. Wonder how to get the proper measurement to have that done? Any idea what problems this would cause? Thanks in advance for any reply
Try Joseph Industries for brake parts Bbob. http://www.joseph.com/
Machine shop should have removed same amount of material from outside edge of housing as they did at the brake disc area. The brake actuator is limited as how far it can expand before the ball bearings in it run off their ramps & cause brake lock up. It may work for a while with new discs but it will take only a little amount of wear to cause this problem. I've never figured the clearance in those housings - but you could get it by stripping the other side brake or someone reading this may have one apart & measure for you Like I said in post#2 I don't like to machine these, as things can get messed up & I have to warrant my repairs - so I spend the $$ on new parts.
Thanks Willie59. I'll give them a call. Probably be after Labor Day getting an order in now.
Bbob i just orderd parts from joseph industries orderd on tues arrived thurs 10am ohio to ontario canada cost here$1300.00 cost from them $500.00 very nice to deal with t
I have the other side stripped except for removing the housing airman. I'll get the measurement that way and make a second trip to the machine shop. Plan on calling Joseph Ind. First thing Tuesday morning trevor b. Are they a good source for the seals too? Thanks
Brake disc part number I'm having problems finding the part number for the brake disc. I'm talking about the disc with the brake lining on it. Would anyone have an idea ?
Are you talking about item #16 in diagram? That's part #1349141C2
Got my housings back from the machine shop with the flanges machined to match the inner surfaces. I've found a place that might reline and bond new brake lining to the worn ones with any thickness i specify but i can't get those measurements from Case of course so i'm guessing.
Another question on re-assembling the brakes.is it common to remove a shim or two as the bearings and gears wear? I still have a little movement in the side shafts when I tighten the housings down. Machine has 3600hrs.
Yes, it is good to assemble those carriers so there is pre-load on the bearings. If you alter the shim pack on the LHS you will affect the backlash. To tighten up the pre-load shims need to be pulled from RHS. With a little pre-load you must still have .006" - .011" backlash at the crownwheel & pinion. I hope you haven't mixed the LH & RH thrust washers between the 2 side gears & cross shaft, they are different thicknesses.
Yes, it is good to assemble those carriers so there is pre-load on the bearings. If you alter the shim pack on the LHS you will affect the backlash. To tighten up the pre-load shims need to be pulled from RHS. With a little pre-load you must still have .006" - .011" backlash at the crownwheel & pinion. I hope you haven't mixed the LH & RH thrust washers between the 2 side gears & cross shaft, they are different thicknesses.
Thanks again airman. Really good info'. I haven't had the sideshafts out but since there's some play in the LHS after tightening the housing I'm suspecting the this caused the seal to fail.
Well, I still have this machine and I still have this problem. It is a farm use machine so I have been using it for several years now with only the left brake working. I have decided to tackle the issue again. Can anyone tell me if I might have some play in this axle which might cause the continual problem with axle seals? The axle doesn’t move when I try to pry it a little at rest and the backlash seems ok when moving the wheels a little while off the ground. Anyone had any of the same experiences with these backhoes? Thanks in advance
The movement could be in the side gears or bull pinion gears OR the small diff lock seal. Rocking the rear wheels won't tell you if that is the issue. You check those gears when the brake covers are off & brakes are out of the machine.
Thanks airman. I had removed a shim years ago when I tackled this but evidently I still have too much play in the gearing. I installed a second seal on the diff lock axle and a second seal on the brake housing axle. I cleaned my old brake discs and will be using those instead of the new ones I bought to test the machine once reassembled. I also drilled a 3/8” hole next to the pin in the outer brake cover to allow drainage. If this doesn’t work I will have to find someone more experienced in making adjustments to the gearing.
Sure, I can help you with that. Here are the answers to your questions: Yes, you will likely need to drop the transaxle to remove the inner brake housing. This is because the differential lock is mounted on the same side, and the seals may be preventing access to the housing. Yes, you can have the inner brake housing resurfaced. However, if the scoring is not deep, it may not be necessary. You can check with a mechanic to see if it's worth the cost. The grabbing and metal-on-metal sound could be caused by several factors. It's possible that the brake pads are worn unevenly, or that there is debris in the brake system. It's also possible that the springs on the bendix type discs have weakened, but this alone may not explain the grabbing. I would recommend having a mechanic inspect the system to determine the cause and recommend a solution. Regarding the dry type brake with vent hose connections on top and good shape actuator cylinders, it seems that the brake system is in good condition overall. However, it's important to address any issues with the brakes as soon as possible to ensure safety and prevent further damage.