Not exactly heavy equipment but maybe a person more familiar with hydraulics can help me. It won't start. The engine has about 20 hours on it, started a year ago but not this spring. I've checked lots of stuff on the engine and there is no reason for it not to start but it is direct coupled via Lovejoy to the hydraulic pump and can't seem to turn fast enough to light off. This makes me think there is a hydraulic problem. I've wiggled all the levers several times but at this point, I've had to hold levers in the approprate spot and force it in to a position to transport it home. My plan is to remove the engine ( have stripped one of the allan head coupler screws ) and I'm looking for ideas on how to figure out where the problem is. I have a spare pump that is physically the right size. And I could go around and replace some hoses that the rubber has fallen off but I don't really know what to look for. Any ideas appreciated.
Gx390 honda? All my gx motors start easily. It does have gasoline in it, and not diesel? Most have a low oil level switch. Is the wiring still intact? Is the oil level sufficient? What condition is the spark plug? Wet, black, brown? On the bottom of the fuel bowl on the carburetor, there is a drain screw. What, and how much, comes out when removed? Fuel turned on?
Thanks. Yes, I've checked all that. It won't turn fast enough to start. Only turns about 3 revolutions before it won't even with jumper cables on a good battery. Has new gas and spark plug. Ignition coil looks fine. No mouse nests. It's not the starter because it also has a pull starter and you can't pull it more than a foot before it binds up. It won't do any better with the spark plug removed. I think the motor will start if it's not connected to the pump. I think something is wrong with the hydraulics.
Can you pull the pressure line off where it goes to and shove it in the tank just as a test to see if it'll fire off with the pump pumping and no restriction....? Just be ready to shut that sucker down right after it starts and wire the line to the tank so's it won't jump out!!!
Pull the Lovejoy connection apart and then see if he engine runs. Most of them are quite easy to remove. Then you will know what half to look at.
Ronsii, that's a good idea. I'll see if I can find a hose or two to fit and make extensions. I can't get the Lovejoy apart. I've stripped the inside of the allan head set screw. I'm 90% sure the engine will run. When I held the levers to get it in a transport position, all but one function cooperated. Could a blockage in that hose cause it to be bound up like this ? Or is it more likely to be because of a blockage or seizure of some kind at the pump ? Thanks
This should tell you pretty quickly if it's a valving issue or the pump is buggered inside... It might be a messy way to find out but hopefully it sheds some light on where to look.
Picture of said contraption, especially valves. Model name/ number? Is there an online parts manual we could stare at?
Greetings from Broken Stuff Central !! I took pictures with 2 different cameras/phones but my computer won't import either set. I seperated the motor from the pump and the motor started second pull. Not sure where the gas has all gone but we know it's not the motor for sure, now. Must be the pump. I can't think of anything else that would cause it so I guess before I just put a pump on I should dissect this one and see if it's because of crud. It's a Majaco M-140 Thanks for the support.
So.... you put a different pump on and it started too? or just without the pump?
I haven't changed the pump yet. Haven't found the others. Just moved the engine so it was disconnected.
Pump looks like it be pretty generic.... try to get any numbers off it and measure the shaft... although you can usually get just about any fit for the lovejoy ends Have you checked the hydro fluid for contamination/sabotage? cause a pump like that is halfway tough....
I plan on pumping out the hyd tank. That should show contamination. Just worried that the problem is the insides of the lines breaking up. Lots of lines on it to figure out which one(s) are bad.
Have you pulled that return filter? Also that control valve on the power unit looks to have a detent, try pulling it into neutral?
I'll check the filter. The tank is very full. Was going to pump some oil out first. Are you asking about the lever above the pump ? it doesn't move. Never has. I've always wondered about it.
https://grpanderson.com/en/document...ts-book/log-loader/model-log-loader-m-115-en/ All the owners manuals are listed here with hydraulic diagrams at the very bottom. What year is it?
You might want to make sure the hydraulic valve levers are in the neutral position, if one is not back to center and is putting a load on the pump it won't want to start. Its a lot easier to move all the levers around instead of jumping right into the pump....
Thanks, pushbroom. I don't know what year it is. Older than 2004. Some of the translations to English are a little strange but the schematics are nice to have. The schematic seems to show that the mystery lever fills a hole that would go to a winch that I don't have. It used to have the articulating tongue but it broke and the previous owner had it welded solid. Too bad because that might have made it steer better and not steering with the tow vehicle is why I haven't used it much.
I have moved all the levers many times. If they are not in neutral, it's an internal fault as they all go to the detent easily. I have always kept the levers and the engine covered.
Do you have somebody to help you with this? Even a kid to pull the levers while you pull the starter cord? It seems like it's loading up the hydraulics, so you need somebody to go around and feel the hoses, pull the levers to figure out where the pressure is building and where it's supposed to be released. I'm suspicious of the winch valve, there doesn't seem to be enough ports on that block for a winch in addition to what's there.
I usually don't have help. I've used bungies and ratchet straps to pull the levers to reposition the grapple arm while I moved it with a backhoe. I find it hard to imagine that a hose would load up noticeabley due to 3 revolutions of the engine. I haven't seen any of them move. I will keep it in mind. Now that the engine is disconnected, I'm going to change the filter and fluid and try to make an extension to stuff into the tank. It looks like it has some big quick connects but I haven't gotten them to move. Might try connecting it to something else if the oil seems clean.
If you're not using that control valve at the pump I would remove it and the quick couplers, make sure there is a relief valve in the crane control block. Other thing I see is that 10ga wire ain't gonna cut it for a battery cable! Did you have the booster pack connected at the starter or battery?
Here is the schematic. That mystery lever seems to be just filling a hole. How to remove it isn't obvious but when I get some oil out, I'll see what I can do. I've soaked all the fittings with penetrant. Minor violence hasn't budged the quick connects. Maybe today... On mine, the top port of the distribution block goes to the IN side of the main valve body. And the rt. angle fitting coming off the main valve body goes to the center port.
No, that lever does not look to me like a winch valve shown in the diagram. You have not moved THAT lever, correct? I can't see any other purpose for that lever/valve, except for bypassing the main valve bank for starting ease, or to bypass the power unit to remove it easily, or to run the loader off a tractor hydraulic outlet. In any case, if that valve is in the wrong position, it will stall the engine quickly, and stiffen that hose from the pump to the valve. I would fix that valve, or you could remove it as suggested.
I Can't move that lever ! Have the engine right off it so I can get to the fittings in the middle. Delmer, are you saying to just bypass that whole 'distribution valve/lever' thing ??? If it is bound up when I reconnect the pressure line, that is what I'll probably try. Have half/most of the oil out of the tank. It looks dirty. Have the quick connects removed and those lines reconnected. Oil coming out there looks clean. Next up the filter and a closer look at that lever. The pump turns by hand. I'm surprised by the amount of oil per revolution ! but the oil coming out looks fairly clean. Guess I'll have to spin it around a few more times and see if that changes. Fortunately it has 'normal' fittings that fit each other and most of the hoses and fittings that I already have !
I have bypassed that valve with the lever and it's not bound up any more. Some hints on identifying a relief valve in the main block, please ? I'll take a picture when I go back to post later. Do I need to add a check valve or anything ?
The diagram in your post #25, the screw with a locknut sticking up just to the right of the handles, that would be the relief valve in my guestimation. If that is a relief, then you're set. Loosen up that valve you removed if you want to use the power pack for something else, like a winch. The overhead view of the motor, pump filter looks to have a relief just to the left of the handle.
Great ! Thanks. That's what I had guessed. It starts ! Didn't try any functions until I checked about the relief valve. Excess parts. That ought to lighten it up some ! haha Thanks for all the help. Sorry I am a little slow on the uptake sometimes but it all worked out.
It is possible that one of them Quick couplers was funked up and not allowing flow. I have seen that before.
I tried turning the pump after I removed the quick connects and reconnected the lines but it was still bound up so it has to be in that valve. I was suspiciuos of them too as I've heard they can cause problems. None of the things I removed are needed the way mine is set up. I only had to buy one fitting to get it back together. ( Needed 2 double end swivel unions but I had one. ) Someday I'll take that valve apart and see what it's problem is.