Hello, I guess this is a little more of a basket case than I thought! 1986 JD 544D SER#DW544DD510896 Aside from the front locker post I have this problem. There is no shift to Second or Fourth in L or H. The shifter works great. I have Forward and Reverse. It seems to have power. The tranny is full. I believe I have full throttle as the linkage doesn't travel any farther. ( Not 100% sure the turbo is working, but that's for another day) It's an old loader and I'd rather not call the local JD dealer on this just yet. It's a plow and that's about it....takes forever to do what I need it to do though. What have you guys seen over the years?
are you saying you have first and third gear lo and hi?
that is correct in (L) I have first gear, in (H) I third gear which is really first gear high range. So it never shifts by itself.
If your shift linkage is good and adjusted properly, then it is time to check all the transmission pressures. That transmission does not actually have gear clutches. Just a low range, high range and a reverse clutch. No 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th clutches. The gearing is through planetaries and a twin turbine torque converter.
Ok so there no chance at all of some wiring being plugged in wrong or anything? The motor was rebuilt so I'm wondering if maybe something is "just not right"? It seems like it been neglect that's the culprit on this unit as I've found many things just need a good cleaning or a ground cleaned up...or sludge maybe? Just thinking that there can't be much adjustment, it engages in L Or H right away just never seems to shift up.
I would be trying to determine RPM at full throttle.
Check to make sure your clutch cutout circuit is functioning properly. It should affect all gears and direction, but check it just in case. To do a proper evaluation you will also need to know what your engine rpm is at full throttle. We need to know if the engine is functioning correctly. Do you have a diesel tachometer or know someone who has one? Same question with gauges. Again I think a transmission/cooler/converter pressure tests and a torque converter stall test are in order to figure this out.
Ok I will call around this week for a mechanic to come up and run a couple of pressure tests. on a side note, can the clutch cut-off switch affect the shift in the torque converter? I thought it would be all valve body controlled like a regular car, and with age of this machine there's no electronics in transmission.
Nope.
ok so now I'm wondering if the turbo isn't working, would it affect the shifting? The load on the transmission is too much for it to upshift?
You are flip flopping from engine to trans issues. Not being there to touch, hear, see or feel the machine we HEF guys rely heavily on your interpretation of the problem. Since you are perceiving an engine/turbo issue (which could seem like that if you have a bad torque converter) we need to determine if it is an engine power issue or a trans/torque converter issue before moving on. So: 1. Get the engine full rpm - no load. Engine hot, trans hot, trans in neutral, pedal to the metal. What is your full throttle rpm? 2. Torque converter stall speed rpm - Engine hot, trans hot, clutch cutoff turned off, foot firmly on the brake pedal, trans in high range forward, pedal to the metal. What is your stall speed rpm? Report your findings and we will move on from there.
thanks for help, I will try this. I was just thinking out loud that if the motor never makes enough power would the transmission shift. Does the turbo affect power 25-50%? I just ordered a tach with sensor for alternator and the digital tachometer sensor to calibrate tach.....seems to simple. ( I'm in Canada so this is going to take a couple of weeks by the time it ships and I instal it)
OK I got a diesel tach in. ( calibrated with digital photo tach at idle, 1200 rpm and full throttle (1700 rpm) so I know it's matched to gage) here's what I found to mg2361 1. Get the engine full rpm - no load. Engine hot 190 , trans hot 140 ? , trans in neutral yes , pedal to the metal yes . What is your full throttle rpm? To the floor no load I'm getting 1700rpm. ( idle is 700) 2. Torque converter stall speed rpm - Engine hot 190 , trans hot 140 , clutch cutoff turned off yes , foot firmly on the brake pedal yes , trans in high range forward tes , pedal to the metal yes . What is your stall speed rpm? 1700rpm...no change. When I shift the trans the pressure drops from 150 to 90 and then start to climb back to 150 in R/L/H. Thanks for any help you can provide. Jamie
1700 doesn’t seem high enough. Somebody here should know the spec.
1700 is way too low. I'll get you the spec later when I get to a computer. It should be in the 2200-2400 rpm range if I had to guess. Look at your injection pump while the engine is off and have someone push the throttle pedal to the floor and see if the injection pump lever reaches the fast idle stop. Edit, found it. Spec is 2400 +/- 50 rpm.
I know that the lever hits the stop as I had to make a new pedal assembly ( old one rusted away) The motor was rebuilt and valves set by previous owner who is a Cat mech) it does appear to be rebuilt and runs very smooth. Any suggestions? So far everything on this loader has just been neglect.
You will need to adjust your engine rpm to get to the spec I mentioned above (post #15) before we move on.
Is this just a matter adjusting the fast idle stop? Is there any chance I could harm anything doing this?
I don't know, I've got a 644 and gears 1/2/3/4 are whichever you shift to. One problem I found is that the suction screen on the trans was clogged with paint chips and small flecks of debris.
So I decided to adjust the floor stopper, I'm getting 2000~ rpm now. Noticeable difference in speed/power but that's a seat of the pants feel. I don't think I want to adjust it anymore than that.
Why not.? You were given the spec above as 2400+/-50. You haven't even gone half way to the the target yet assuming the starting point was 1700. Unless you get the High Idle RPM within spec my take on it is that you shouldn't expect anything else to work right.
I have a question.....if I unhook the linkage what stops the lever from rotating? It would seem that I can make it go way past what the linkage could pull, it's pulling 1/4" further than before getting 2000rpm
Make sure machine is in neutral, park brake is applied and the wheels are chocked. Disconnect the linkage, start the engine and manually turn the injection pump by hand to see what your maximum rpm is. When you start the engine it will stay at idle without the linkage connected because of the governor inside the pump. If it is not 2400 rpm then adjust the stop until you reach 2400 rpm.
Ok so now we're talking.....it's a totally different loader! It's really moving now, lots of power, quite a bit faster...is the shift fairly smooth on these? I'm going to have to gps to know actual speed ( I'm happy either way) Will do some more testing tomorrow . Appreciate all the help!