Can someone please tell me where to locate and how to remove the transmission sump on my Michigan loader. I believe it is plugged because I have a hard time getting it to move when cold. The warmer it is outside, the better it works. It has the 3 speed clark transmission. Any help would be greatly appreciated
What is the complete model, 55A or B or later. If it"s an A or B then the sump screen is at the bottom under the bottom cover. There are a dozen or so bolts to remove to take off the bottom sump. The screen is in there.
It is a 1970 55B. Is the cover located close to the filler tube which goes towards the back of the transmission? When I crawl underneath the loader it is hard to locate any kind of pan or cover.
It’s right on the bottom, lowest point of the transmission.
Okay, thanks for the help. I will post once it stops raining and I get it taken off.
Ciao Caseybow, Ti invio il Manuale di servizio per la trasmissione CLARK serie 28000 . Regards
Thank you Stefano! The attachment you sent is very much needed.
Hi Caseybow, sent me Serial Number of your CLARK MICHIGAN 55B. Regards
The tag with serial number can't be read. All I see on it is a 023, Sorry
Still having a major issues with this loader. This will be a long post, but I am trying to explain everything I know and tried to get help. Drained transmission and converter and the oil looked great. Removed the side transmission plug from the left side and inspected sump screen and it was very clean. replaced transmission filter and cleaned sump screen anyways and refilled with fresh transmission fluid until it came out of filler plug on the side. This was double checked with engine running at normal operating temperature. After idling for app. 10 minutes with an outside temperature of +8 Celsius, I tried the transmission. Would not move forward or reverse. If you rev the engine and work steering and Hydraulics hard, after awhile it will begin to engage and start to move. You must maintain working the machine after that to maintain momentum. If you are slow to stop to lift something, it refuses to budge again. This can be a back and forth game for around 10 minutes then everything seems to become normal. This problem only exists when the outside temperature starts cooling down. During summer months when it is hot outside and after air pressure builds to release the brakes it is an unstoppable machine. If temperatures drop to app. 8 Celsius or lower this will create a moving issue. This machine has had this issue for the 4+ years I have owned it. It was previously stored indoors for over 10 years before I purchased it. Can someone please help with this problem. The only thing maybe I can think of is perhaps a sticking declutch valve. If you agree, what is the best way to fix. If you don't believe that to be the problem, I would appreciate any and all alternatives. Please help
Check Targhet CLARK Transmission model . Regards
Here is the tag on the transmission plus the tag on converter
Well I believe you have either a very worn charge pump or a leaky suction tube up to the charge pump. I don’t know how much time, money and effort you want to invest in that old unit. If it were me, I would overfill the hell out of that transmission an see what happens.
If it were one of the 2 possible problems, why does it work so good when you first start is up when it's warm out?
Easier to pull the oil up when it’s thinner.
I understand the theory. However, when you let the machine idle for over 10 minutes, the oil should then be warm and thinned out.
Ok well get some gauges on that transmission and see what the pump is doing. It’s just a gear pump. It’s at the highest point on the transmission. The gear pump only has to make a couple hundred psi for the transmission. When that pump was new it was capable of a couple thousand psi. Now it’s worn and has many scratches and grooves worn in it. Under perfect conditions gear pumps are not great at sucking fluid. They are far better at pushing. I’m going with the easiest thing to try. With the fluid being overfilled it will be easier for the pump to draw and maybe the higher level will cover any leaks in the suction tube. You asked for help, this is just my two cents.
Thanks Acecadet. I was unsure of overfilling the transmission part you mentioned. After you explained it, makes sense. Appeciate any and all help.
Hi Caseboy, I send Service Manual for Converter C270 Series Regards
Was this issue resolved ? I had similar issues. I did put 3 gauges on the TC to check what is going on. There was enough pressure but not enough flow ! Main issue was the filter in the gearbox, I did also replace the filter which sits between the TC and the pump. Last but not least, check correct oil ! If you have oil for the summer, it wont work in cold temperatures (until you heated it up to normal temps). Also I cant see in your post that you mention if this is the TC or the Gear. If you look at the shaft between TC and Gear, if that does not run with high RPM when revving up, you have the TC issues above.
Joer00- I have been unable to work on the loader since last fall. Waiting for warmer weather to start the process again. I also have to replace the brake master cylinders. After a long time looking I managed to find 2 at a very reasonable price. You said you replaced the filter in the gear box and a filter between TC and pump. Would you be able to send me a picture of these 2 locations. I am unaware that they existed and could perhaps be my issue. Thanks
@Caseybow One filter is on the oil drain of the gearbox, this was my main issue it was severely clogged. The filter between the charge pump and TC is and the right end of the machine. Hope attached pics help. I also attach the Clark/spice troubleshooting manual, you also see the filter there. Now I want to ask you a favor too My machine the prior owner completely removed the brake system ! I am rebuilding this now, but from the parts manual many items are unclear where they go. Can you send me as much pic as possible from the brake system ? Starting how the lines go from the brakes to where it all comes together in the middle of the machine ? Thanks Joe
May I make a suggestion? If you are truly starting over with the brake system, I would suggest changing over from the original air/hydraulic system to a much better, more modern and by far cheaper hydroboost system off of a modern commercial truck. I have contemplated this very idea on an old Pettibone forklift of mine. The idea would be to remove the booster and master cylinder from a truck at a pick and pull. Then plumb the pressure hydraulic line from the steering orbital to the booster then back to the orbital valve. Hook up front and rear brake lines. Little bit of fabrication for a brake pedal to get to the horizontal mounted booster/master and Bobs your uncle.
Great idea. I thought trucks are all air brakes ? I need to at least keep the braking units in the wheel and they are hydraulic.
Mid size truck like a 650 ford or a Kodiak Chevy
Joe, Thanks for the pictures and manual. I assume that your machine is probably older than mine, as my transmission is different. With that said however, I have changed the filter close to the radiator and the sump screen in bottom of transmission was clear. Things are still a mystery to me why it doesn't move when it starts getting cold out. I have attached the brake manual for mine(air over hydralic) and another parts manual I found. Good luck and keep us updated.