I noticed the coolant was low on my 555e today so upon my surprise I used almost 2/3 gallon to fill the reservoir up about halfway. After 4 hrs or so of running, I checked the reservoir and the coolant was non existent again. The temp today was 82-85 and was overcast but it definitely was a warm day. The machine did not overheat at all during the usage which was right around 1700rpms. Also, the oil level is normal and not milky whatsoever. I noticed a while ago that when tightening my reservoir cap and I get to what I would consider tight, one more turn and it acts like it’s stripped. I can probably assume this would be the issue, but is there any other places to check and make sure the radiator is full? Any other thoughts on why the reservoir is empty or barely has any fluid in it? I don’t see any leaks either.
I use to have to add to mine too. After the reservoir developed a hole in top and I replaced it the level has remained constant. It's nice to be able to see the level with the new reservoir also. New reservoirs come with a new cap. The cap doesn't fit worth a crap. You have to be careful not to cross thread the new one. Part Number is 84136463. https://www.newhollandrochester.com/parts/new-holland/catalog/
Thanks NH. I did go back out to the property today and looked at the level again to see if it would be any different when it cooled down. To my surprise it’s right back to the 2/3 full where I put it yesterday. I do agree that I need a new one because I can’t see the level. I sure as heck didn’t want to open it yesterday when it was hot, so maybe I mistakenly didn’t see the correct level. Is there any other place to check the level or are we stuck with the reservoir only?
Reservoir only. Before getting the new tank I use to stick my hydrometer in to see if I could suck any out. If it didn't reach any coolant I added some.
Have you noticed any "white" smoke out the exhaust.
No white smoke. Actually no smoke at all to be honest. Just ticked over 4200 hrs.
Coolant can evaporate if the cap or system isn't sealed. I suspect cosmaar1's evaluation of his cap not sealing is the culprit. My new tank from the link above was just under $62 shipped. I wish I would have bought it a long time ago.
Hey NH575E, I tried the link you provided and it took me to the NH site, but not to the tank. I also searched using the part number you provided, and it came right up. Messicks has 2 in stock. I see it fits several other tractors as well. Knock on wood, mine seems fine at this point, but I still have cracked 1000 hours, so I guess I shouldn't get too excited...LOL https://www.messicks.com/part/84136463/tank So, since you did the thermostat, you have not had a lick of overheating problems? cosmaar1, Do you have a pressure testing tool? That would likely tell you if it is leaking down. I just looked on the harbor freight site for the pressure tester...man, their prices are going up quickly...and no more freebies
The site I linked to wouldn't link directly to the product page for some reason. That is why I provided the part number. You had to search the number in their search bar to get to it. NOTE: You have to remove the air filter housing to get the coolant tank out. Wasn't too bad to do but it's tight in there. In the heat it creeps over the half way point after about an hour and a half. It hasn't overheated but I don't push it past that point. I have just been watching it and use that as my stopping point for work. I am planning on trying to flush out the radiator in the machine. It looks like it would be a bear to remove and take to the radiator shop. I have everything lined up but the round tuit. The best way to pressure test is to tee into the rubber hose coming off the neck of the tank. I have almost stopped checking HF completely. I have been finding better deals at Home Depot for most stuff. I bought three 46" Husky tool boxes there in the beginning of the year. They were several inches deeper than the HF boxes and less money. They also had a built in power strip that included USB charging ports. I pulled one out and mounted it on the wall and left the other two mounted in the sides of the boxes. I special ordered some Cobalt drill bits that were pretty reasonable from HD also.
Swetz, no pressure testing tool but I think I need a tank first. It’s so yellow I can’t see anything, even with a high powered flash light trying to see through. Mine hasn’t overheated since last year when I realized the radiator was packed full of dirt, however it does go past the midpoint on an 85+ day. I would assume that’s normal although I would assume the thermostat is probably original. I’m sure it’s a pain to take out and replace.
A properly operating system should rise in temperature to the point regulated by the thermostat and remain there. A system under pressure can handle higher temperatures, and offers a higher static boiling point . So everything has to be in order. You need a full, sealed, system with clean fins and flues, and a properly working thermostat. The water pump must be in good working order and the belt tension at the right setting. Our machines have a pretty tall order to fill with the oil cooler and AC condenser in front of the radiator. My machine came to me with no thermostat. The only hard part about replacing the thermostat is draining the coolant down to a point you won't spill it when you remove the thermostat. I originally installed a 180* unit when I serviced my coolant. Earlier this year my machine overheated due in part to my tank being cracked. When I installed the new tank I changed to a 160* thermostat. My machine rises up to about a quarter way with the 160* thermostat and will work at that point for an hour or so then it begins to rise. It may rise to another point and remain there without overheating but I am not wanting to take that chance. My John Deere tractor came from the factory with a 160* and that is the only part number they list for it so I thought I would try one in the NH. I'm not a diesel mechanic by any means. I was a master auto tech for 25+ years and conventional thinking on gas engines was to never go below a 180*. Most modern engines come with a 192* thermostat. My future plans are to clean the radiator, condenser, and oil cooler fins with some AC foaming coil cleaner I bought from Home Depot. I also plan to drain the radiator and soak it with a vinegar solution and try to check the flue condition with a borescope. You can get in the top tank through the radiator hose inlet. If I can't get the inside totally clean I will probably endeavor into removing the radiator and take it to a radiator shop for a rod job. (that looks to be a certified sumbitch of a job) I will most likely put the 180* thermostat back in since that is what is listed for our engines.
Hello NH575E...ever get that round tuit to finish cleaning the radiator, condensor and oil cooler fins...or remove that radiator. I picked up a 555e and will be attempting to remove, clean it soon?
I have washed them out with cleaner and a homemade wand I can get in and spray water through. I never pulled the radiator. That looks to be a monumental task. I did isolate it from the engine and filled it full of cleaning vinegar and let that sit overnight. Then I flushed with water and filled with a water and baking soda solution then flushed with water again before connecting the hoses back to the engine. So far with a new 180 degree thermostat and PEEK FLEET CHARGE antifreeze it gets to temp and holds even while working in Florida heat.
What are you doing to your hoe? Searched and didn't find a thread like this so decided to start one. The other day I changed the engine mounts (isolators) on my NH575E. Factory mounts were available from a couple of places but nobody showed 4 in stock. Cost would have been $43-$47 each plus shipping. I decided to go with a... HeavyEquipmentForums
Really hoping I won't have to pull it but I'll try to get through the cleaning so I can get a better look at it.
I think that coolant reservoir is now $122.00....shipped to my location...about doubled in price.
NH575...was wondering if you diluted the cleaning vinegar and if so, what ratio...50/50...straight cleaning vinegar, as well as the baking soda amount/concentration? Did you run the engine to circulate the vinegar and/or baking soda solution throughout the engine or just filled the radiator and let that sit overnight? I've read other threads about folks removing the thermostat to get the solution to circulate throughout the engine and radiator quicker and running it for a half hour or so and then draining the vinegar and repeating the same thing with the baking soda to neutralize the vinegar before draining and filling with distilled water and coolant.
Sorry...reread your prior post and see that you just filled the actual radiator, but, the amount/concentration of vinegar/water and baking soda/water might help...thoughts on running the backhoe with the vinegar solution through the engine without the thermostat for a short time?
I just used straight cleaning vinegar in the radiator. The main reason I didn't run it through the engine was I had recently replaced the coolant and I didn't want to drain the block. I don't recon it would hurt anything in the engine as long as you flush it all out with clean water. I just mixed one box of baking soda in however much water it tool to fill the radiator and let it sit but I don't remember the amount. I don't see much advantage unless the engine is rusty. I also used vinegar to clean the rust out of my fuel tank. I mixed it 50% with water. It cleaned the tank really well. Getting the tank dried out before adding fuel back in was a pain. I ran the exhaust of my 5HP shop vac in it for a while.
Got it, thanks.