Finding little things that I need to figure out/fix and ran across this loose wire. Looked through the books for a triangular shaped plug and found wht I think is a "Loader Return to Dig" sensor. Can anyone confirm this please? And what does it do actually Also found this lever thingy that has no logical connection to anything that I can see. Thanks for your help. R
A return to dig is an electrical switch that senses the angle of the bucket and holds the valve until it reaches the ready to dig angle, for repetitive loading work. I can't confirm the wireing, but the sensor in the second pic is exactly what I'd expect to see. Return to dig is almost never working on old backhoes.
Are you calling my backhoe "the Beast" OLD? I won't tell her you said that...
Well, does the return to dig work? doesn't have to be old to not work I guess, but the old ones rarely work. It's just kinda tacked on there, and in an exposed location I guess.
Hi Delmer, Please forgive my attempt at humor. And no, It does not work. It looks to me like the sensor is broken on the end where the wires used to go. Imma pull it off again and see how it compares to one that is all in one piece. And thank you for your response.
From the service manual FWIW !
Cool. I did not get that far in the book yet, so thanks, that helps a lot.
no problem at all. from your pictures it looks like you're missing some pieces? the #2 bucket angle indicator is handy to have, it shows you exactly the bucket angle so you can repeat your digging performance, even if it isn't automatic.
Just from the little bit of work I've done with the loader, you're right about the angle indicator. I'll have to look harder at that. The sensor is a bit pricey at about $111+- depending. It's something that goes on the list towards the bottom. For now, I am still very much in the discovery phase, trying to find and fix 20-some years of a lease hoe quick fixes. I like doing this kind of stuff. Thank you all again
The bellcrank setup in this pic you posted is prolly frozen. I had that problem as well. I took it off and wound up replacing a bushing and freeing it up. I also installed a grease fitting that I now hit each time I grease the unit, so it does not seize up again. Warning, if you decide to do this, the linkage under the tractor is a PITA to get to from the bottom. The rod under the tractor...I had to get a new pin for the end. How it looks when properly installed
Now that all makes sense! That whole "picture worth a thousand words" thingy is true. I am missing the connecting rod and it looks like the guide for the level indicator on mine is bent to snot. Yours... Mine... Thanks Swetz!
Many just toss the whole return to dig and bucket leveling. Once you get good at it, you can actually do a better job of leveling the bucket on your own. For now, mine works...lol we shall c what the future brings.
Yeah, the return to dig Is not at or near a must have, but I do need to understand everything about this machine (which is why I'm here) in order to work it. Plus I like things to be kinda stock with all the things it had when it was shiny.
This part of your post is a good example why pictures are so important. The thread title is "555E Part ID Question" Your picture is showing a 675E decal on the tractor.
That's Swetz's loader with the complete parts. If it was mine, I'd try to get it freed up and rig some sort of level indicator so you can see the angle better.
My 555E return to dig function stopped working about a year ago. Is it usually the sensor that goes out?
It's probably just a switch, use a multimeter to see if it opens and closes, or why not. Could be wiring, linkage adjustment, they get bent more than wear, so it's not a fine adjustment as far as working or not. The level would be adjustable.
The mine pic (yours) shows the bucket level pointer on the bottom side and bent. As stated previously, the bell crank part is prolly what is messed up. It is a bit of a bear to get in there to take the linkage off from under the unit, but once it is back in operation, you would have a bucket level indicator on the top side. I find it handy...not impossible to get the bucket level without it tho.
The switch is a proximity switch, and it is adjustable. BTW, if you are looking this up, it is under section 9 loader/backhoe and implement devices...not sure what an implement device is, and I had to do some digging to find it, so hopefully this saves time.
Thanks for that Swetz! At a minimum, I'm gonna need parts 4 - 8 just to get the level indicator back on track? So really, there are a couple of things going on here. One is the sensor that automatically returns the bucket to the digging level and the other is the level indicator which is more of a visual indicator and is independent of the sensor. If that is correct, then I should be able to just flip the the top bracket (Idler Lever) over and connect the top rod without using that bottom connecting tie rod and that would allow me to use the level indicator without using the sensor? I'll have to go look at it again and try to get a better understanding of how it all works. Thanks for making my day R
Kinda...Yes, the sensor is only used for return to dig. I dont think flipping the lever over will cut it...what will keep it flipped? Also, there is another part to this. The rod under the tractor (item #8 in the bottom drawing) is attached to the valve bank and works to keep the bucket level as it moves upward by controlling the action of the spool on the valve bank. As a note, they sell the ty rod as an assembly. That said, they also have the spec on the diameter and length of the rod. An off the shelf threaded rod with 2 ends and jam nuts could prolly be had much cheaper.
Thanks for the explanation. I haven't really gotten around to the underside of it yet. I started working on the floor pan, but I'll take a gander today. Thanks again!
One of those rods is meant to be adjusted, so it will have reverse threads on one end most likely. The straight one.
I honestly do not remember if I was able to just turn the rod or I removed the end and turned it. Either way would work tho.
Reverse threads on one side would let it be infinitely adjustable, without removing an end. #7 nut is LH and the ball joints are different numbers, one double the price of the other.
Damn...your good