My machine isn’t acting right. For example, I crank the backhoe up to 2000 RPMs and put a load on the backhoe portion by curling the bucket outward and keeping it there, it drops to 1500-1600 and then back to 1800 while I still have the lever pushed out. I never remember the machine doing this. I have an inline fuel filter, so I changed that. Changed the main fuel filter. Looked at the banjo before the bowl, clean as a whistle. I even put my mouth on the fuel suction line and blew it out until I heard a volcano of bubbles in the tank. The machine drives perfectly fine, no issues there. I don’t notice it on the loader side however I haven’t used it like the backhoe. Any ideas? Am I missing something? I don’t think it’s air related so I haven’t checked the filters yet. I wouldn’t assume they are dirty as I blew them prior to taking my machine back to the property about 15 working hours ago.
Longshot idea but make sure the loader handle isn't stuck to the left in the return to dig. Mine will do that and bog the engine. I'm onto it now so I got in the habit of moving the loader handle back to center as soon as it sticks.
I will check today but I do not believe that is the culprit. I ran the machine yesterday for about 5 hours and it did it continually even with switch from loader to backhoe multiple times. I did a lot of land clearing and pushing brush.
I went out again today with the wife. Checked the loader controls and nothing changed. Something has to be clogged for it to act this way. I’m going to blow out the tank lines again and then start taking apart fuel lines I guess. That’s the only thing that makes sense at this point.
Went out again today and took a part the fuel lines up to the filter housing. Isolated the tank to where I was sucking fuel from a can and the return line went to another can. Completely cleaned out the bowl, banjo, and all lines up to the filter housing. Still doing the same thing. Thought it could be a clogged air filter, so I took the outside filter off to just leave the fine particulate filter. That didn’t work so I took off the fine particulate filter and put the bigger one on only. Still no change. With anyone that has a 555e or 575e or some other similar model, does this fuel line elbow move? It is not night to the bowl housing, however has an oring to seal it off. If I tighten it up completely it makes another 1/4 turn and faces up which doesn’t work. I didn’t notice it to be loose before I took it off, but honestly wasn’t paying that close of attention. Only thing I can think of at this time is 2 things…. 1) the fuel pump seems to be working, but it’s on its last leg and isn’t pumping 100% capacity. 2) I did hear the fan belt squeaking today when ramped up to 2000 rpms, but I wouldn’t imagine that it would have anything to do with the hydraulics and engine power loss.
With regard to the picture, when I was cleaning mine, if I recall correctly, you clock the elbow where it needs to be and then tighten the nut. The whole apparatus with the olive seals and other rinky dink connections is shabby in my opinion.
The nut on the elbow is fixed. Or at least it feels that way. If I tighten it like I want to, the port faces the sky. The way it sits currently is not tight, and I tried every way under the sun to put it in differently to no avail. My next idea is to put another washer and see if that fixes it. The nut you can tighten is the fuel line that goes to the elbow.
If that fitting is loose it is most likely sucking air. The parts list does in fact show that fitting as fixed but it doesn't make sense that the nut is fixed. However the list and diagrams are leaving out some detail. For instance there are rubber seals referred to as "olives" at both ends of lines 5 and 8 that are NOT shown. I went through that sometime back. You might want to search back on the olive discussions.
Yeah I remember that and it fixed my issue last time. I’m just at a loss why this is happening again.
Have you checked the fuel supply pressure? Manual supply pumps have check valves that can get debris in them and effect the flow and pressure. Unless the fuel supply pump design is the type you can take apart to clean, you can't see anything
I think it is unlikely to get clogged but there is a screen under the fuel distributor inlet. It is #4 in this illustraton. If you pull it be VERY CAREFUL not to let the spring fly out or get any of the other little parts lost.
Messick's has a good close up of the elbow fitting but it is still unclear if the nut is separate. It only makes sense for it to tighten like a o-ring boss SAE type hydraulic fitting where you screw it down close then tighten the nut to seal it. New Holland #83951858 ELBOW USE P/N 237-6005 ORING www.messicks.com If I get some time later I will look at mine and see if the nut is away from the base of the fitting.
Yes. Someone posted a way to get rid of the olive connections with hydraulic fittings I think. I bought the fittings and turned the features in a lathe. They are ready for installation next time I have to mess with all that.
I checked mine and it appears obvious the nut is not bottomed against the fitting. You should be able to get it free so you can clock the elbow then tighten the seal with the nut and washer. The end of the elbow where the line connects has an olive seal.
Ok Appreciate the info. I got my pump today just in case so I will see if I can try to get out there tomorrow.
cosmaar, Does your machine have an electric fuel pump? If yes, they are a common failure point.
So it took a little pushing down on the wrench, but the fitting broke free and is as tight as ever. It must have just been in there right enough that I never noticed it was a nut. Appreciate the help. Unfortunately didn’t fix the issue.
Yes it does. I received one in the mail yesterday and am going to put it on this weekend to see if it makes a difference. $45 on Amazon beats a $300 OEM NH one.
So I was talking to my dad tonight and he asked two questions I couldn’t answer and am not around my machine any longer. When turning the key, do I hear the electric fuel pump run? I honestly don’t remember if I did or not even years ago when I bought it. The other question made me think and I wanted to know what you guys thought… Is it possible the fuel pump is bad, but the injector pump is strong enough to pull fuel via vacuum? He compared it to one of his Chevy trucks that didn’t have a pump and it was fed this way. Thoughts?
Fuel pump could be strong possibility my machine came with new pump just installed and another new one and a used one so seems like they need to be changed pretty much with each oil change
I have never herd my pump running. It is possible the injector pump is sucking fuel. Dont think this is good for the injector pump tho.
My 575E ran the first two years of me owning it with the wires to the pre pump broken. I didn't find and fix that until I got into the sucking air issue and replaced all the olive seals. I think once the system is primed and not leaking or sucking air the injection pump has enough suction to run the machine after it is primed. After I replaced all my olive seals and repaired the wires to my pre pump I still had to install a inline pump to get the system re-primed. After I got it primed and running I removed that pump and it has started and run fine ever since. Here is a thread I made on a substitute for the olive seals before I knew what they were called or where to find them. HeavyEquipmentForums EDIT: This is the best current link I have to the olive seals that SHOULD fit our lines. Set of 10- Fuel Line Seal Sleeve Olive 5/16" 40584 746400M91 33811114 376526X1 | eBay Replaces Part Number(s) : 164632A, 376526X1. Combine Models : (Used W/ 5/16" O.D. Fuel Line): 510, 550, 750, 760, 850, 855, 8590, 860, 865, 9720. Industrial Tractor Models : (Used W/ 5/16" O.D. Fuel Line): 510, 550, 750, 760, 850, 855, 8590, 860, 865, 9720. www.ebay.com
Yes I remember this forum from long ago. I have honestly been making my own out of fuel line hose as the olives weren't thick enough because I kept having to double them up. Maybe with the new seller they have changed.
to this message in particular, i have no issue priming the system (knock on wood). changing the filters don't seem to be an issue, heck i even disconnected the supply line and put it into a 5 gallon can last week to test something and it sucked fuel no problem. i wonder what happened to yours.
If the SUPPLY PUMP goes out, YES the INJECTION PUMP will pull the fuel BUT will eat itself up in short order..
I was hoping you would chime in. That’s not what I wanted to hear so let’s just hope the electric pump isn’t as strong as it once was. I really don’t want to be paying for a new injection pump.
Sometimes like today, I get busy from sun up to sun down and when I finally get a chance to look at this site, I have 7 pages of new posts.!! U can always contact me directly.. or thru a prvt msg..& I’ll get a notification on my phone.. Change out the supply pump and see what happens.. OR plumb in a pressure gauge..
Update: I have determined nothing is blocking the supply or return lines, I have completely cleaned and inspected the sediment bowl, have changed the fuel filter, installed a new electric fuel pump, replaced an olive or two on the fuel lines that looked suspect, and have bled the injectors. After talking with my dad we are both thinking everything is fine and what I am experiencing with the rpm drop is normal. I am not having any issues driving or performing normal functions, it’s only when there is a high load on the machine (stump pulling, digging into a pile with the loader, etc.). I don’t remember this previously happening, but then again the machine sat for over a year without being used while I worked on it. Maybe I forgot how it worked? I do believe I have an issue with the throttle linkage as the backhoe throttle control only goes up to 1900-2000. When I step on the pedal it goes up to 2400. Either the cable is stretched and needs replaced or adjusted. I haven’t figured that out yet. I don’t think it would cause the issue I think I’m having.