I recently ran my new to me 555e TLB for about 1.5hrs shoving around some dirt. I was basically going back and forth from forward to reverse over a short 50foot area doing medium/grading. It's a 99 with 4x4 and 2800hrs Anyhow, during the last 15 minutes I had the trans pressure light come on and a series of 3-4 beeps. It only did it when I was stationary and shifting from reverse to forward. I checked fluid afterwards and it was at the full mark hot and idling. I did notice bubbles in the fluid so I went ahead and drained the trans of about 4gallons and added NH 134 fluid and new filter. I warmed it up running around the yard with new fluid and still get those tiny bubbles on dip stick. I have not worked it enough since filter and fluid to check of light and beeping is cured. Any ideas on what to check? And anyone know how to find and clean trans pick up screen? Thanks, Dan
Did the light go out as soon as you raised the RPMs above idle? Mine use to do this but hasn't since I washed the radiator and cooler fins clean. Try washing out the oil cooler and radiator fins and make sure the coolant is up to level.
actually the light would come on just for a second while hearing a series of beeps. It happened every time I went from reverse into forward. Do you mean like a full radiator flush?
No I mean wash out the fins on radiator and oil cooler.
You didn't have any trans stalls did you? Also were you in 1 or 2,3 gear? Grading is solely a 1st operation. Does your trans dump switches work? Mine is stuck and there is a good write up on here on what causes it. I just switch to neutral until I can find that short. What NH575, is also what I have seen I believe the trans cooler sits directly behind the AC cooler, which seems to plug up, with mudcrud.. Did you get the books o.k?, there's some descriptions in the service one...
No trans stalls, switches do work. Fins on radiator and coolers at clean. Yep, I got the files and have been reading them diligently. Thanks again
Best guess would be to pull the screen then. Its in a pretty easy spot thank goodness..
I doubt very much you'll find anything in the screen my guess would be a sensitive pressure switch. It's a coarse screen and if there was anything plugging it you'd have some serious problems.
I wont ask where the screen is or if a filter is in the hydraulic reservoir ....Ill look trough the manuals I was provided.
For what it's worth my radiator and cooler fins didn't LOOK dirty. When I started washing through them it looked like a solid mud bath coming out the other side. Everything seemed much happier after the cleaning. I didn't use a pressure washer but that might be safe. I have a piece of bent copper tube that I fitted to a hose nozzle and bent the end to create more pressure. I also put a slight bend in the end to reach in towards the middle and direct the water pressure forward. If you look in your service manual under troubleshooting on page 4-63 it will list some of the possible problems. While it has oil cooler air flow restriction last it is the most likley and simplest place to start IMO. If you want to clean the suction screen (strainer) here is the image I found for it's location. You can search those manuals for key words at the start of the section you want and it will jump to and highlight them. The catch is they may use two different words to describe the same thing as they did with this. In the troubleshooting section they refer to it as a screen and in the location image they called it a strainer. Like Xray said all work operations should be done in first gear. 2nd and 3rd are useful for getting to the work site a little faster. 4th is just for highway but not with ME driving it.
Thanks for all the info and tips. I think I will tackle that tomorrow. Looks like a pretty simple job for peace of mind. Lastly... for today. Is there a filter in the hyd. reservoir? I've read some places there is but don't see it under hydraulics section. Oh yeah...I had switched to second gear for the last 15 minutes of the work I had been doing. That's about when it started beeping and the low pressure light came on.
There is a large wire mesh strainer inside the reservoir. Part number 85801217. It requires a special wrench to remove it. I got lucky and found one of the filters on that auction site for $35 and made a wrench from an old MG wheel knock off tool. It's basically a large short open end wrench you can hit with a hammer. Didn't take a lot of force to get it loose but I think you would have a heck of a time without something similar to loosen it with. I attempted to get it loose by hand and with large channel locks before cutting up my old MG tool. It would take a LOT of crud to clog it but after having a full paper towel sheet emerge from my drain hole I didn't want to leave any filters unchanged. Mine actually had a rubber disc (in photo) from somewhere in the suction hole behind the reservoir filter so I was very glad I pulled it. Who knows why but it was in there. No reason you could not wash the filter out and reuse it.
Now I feel guilty as that is too perfect of an answer and with pic. You remind me of me. If there is a filter or a serviceable part, I can't ignore it. That wrench you made looks like the Hydraulic reservoir breather/fill cap wrench I have. Thanks again
You made me run out to check my wrench on the oil cap. The oil cap is much smaller. My filter wrench measures about 3-1/8" across the opening. You could easily fabricate one from 3/16" - 1/4" plate. If you weren't doing a fluid change for some other reason and the hydraulics are working okay I wouldn't mess with it. Like I said it would take a LOT of crud to clog it. On the oil cap subject make sure your cap has the o-ring under it. Mine was missing and rain was getting in my reservoir. I had an oil cap gasket for an old Volvo that fit perfectly. No more water in my tank.
Hah! The gasket under the round access on my tank is leaking so I plan to replace it and clean the filter. My cap does have the o ring but I wonder if the cap works correctly. I noticed pressure releasing when I unscrewed it the other day so I cleaned it as best as I could with brake cleaner and dried it out.
I reused the gasket on mine and it seeps a little. I think it's probably coming from around the bolts. I wish I would have put a dab of sealer on those when I put the cover back on. I took my cap apart and cleaned it all out to make sure the vent could release pressure and it still has pressure on it when I open it. I suspect it takes x number of lbs to overcome the spring and vent so some pressure is probably normal. You may already know this but the Traveler PREMIUM brand hydraulic fluid at Tractor Supply carries the NH 134 spec compatibility. If you have a Ttractor Supply near you it's a good source for oil. Make sure you get the PREMIUM and read the label.
I'm picking up a new gasket today and plan to clean screen. As far as the bolts on access door do they go through the side of the tank or just bottom out? If they go through then I'm going to ad some pipe thread seal to the bolt threads and some oil/fuel proof sealant to both sides of the gaskets. I have seen where travelers premium can be used on our 555e's
I removed the access door and inspected the filter. It looked clean so I just cleaned lid and tank then ran thin bead of seal all around edge of gasket on inside side. I did not circle bolt holes I just ran sealant around inside diameter of the gasket. As far as bolts... they don't go into the tank but screw into a small tapped which is pressed and sealed and need no pipe thread dope. So far no leaks Thanks for the help.