Hi everyone I have the 2 swing cylinders leaking have the seal kits and managed to get one gland nut to move but the other is stuck good have a big breaker bar and long pipe gland wrench but hard to keep the pins in the gland holes so what would be the trick to removing it I also have a bucket cylinder on the front and back leaking nut they have a different gland nut what type of wrench removes them thanks all
A 36-inch pipe wrench with an 8-foot galvanized fence post as a breaker bar is non-discriminatory and almost always works. There are post here that show how to keep the gland wrench in the holes by using a ratcheting tie down to keep it in place. Hopefully that poster will see this and re-post. I can't remember who posted it. Good luck
For the loader bucket cylinder, this is the special tool. A pipe wrench will also work, but may leave teeth marks. This bothers some, others don't really care as long as it works...up to you. The loader cylinder will have a wire in it. You basically turn the gland until the wire is out, then pull it apart. No threads. The kit should have a new wire. Be sure to get the correct orientation on the hook on the end. Once done, and fully tested, dab a little clear RTV over the opening. This prevents water from entering and rusting the parts together. This is how I set it up. No need to remove the barrel. As for the swing gland, look to see if the gland is staked to the barrel. There is a washer in there that is bent in one spot towards the barrel, and another, towards the gland to prevent backoff. Because of the design of the swing cylinders, it is hard to get a hammer in to shock the end of the barrel. If you have an air chisel, that may work.
Thanks guys great information as always if I can keep the pins in the gland nut and good fence post pipe and a little help from the ls180 skid should get the bugger to move
Sometimes it’s easier to drill new holes on the gland if they are rounded off. I’m gonna take all you guyzez pipe wrenches away so I can stop having to fill them in and recut on the lathe. I HATE pipe wrench marks on a gland nut that has holes in it. LOL. It’s just messy. I have used ratchet straps or the old fashioned pipe vise clamps. Peening when necessary.
There’s a picture of how I kept the tool on when I removed the gland on my crowd cylinder.
I could not get the gland off my my swing cylinder I replaced a few years ago. I had to end up taking the whole thing to a shop. They used their torch and setup to get it off. Might have to do the same with yours.
Thanks cosmaar that’s going to be plan b that’s why I’m seeing if they will move before going ahead the one that you push the bar down off moved no problem but the other that have to lift up to loosen is the problem I have the kits for them I don’t know if the shop will use them and guarantee the work
Check and make sure the crush ring isn’t still seated on the gland and barrel. Mine had 2 spots it was pushed in on where as the other cylinder only had 1 spot. Also, the shop I used guaranteed the work because the kit I bought was the same one that they would have gotten through Hercules.
Another tip is if the pins in your gland wrench fit loose in the holes I found the 7/16" pins from standard tractor lynch pins will fit better.