580 B CK Fuel Sender repair…..

So my fuel sender wasn't working. This is how I repaired it. Hopefully this helps someone else out. First I tested my sender with an Ohmmeter and found it to be an open circuit. Bummer! Wont work with my new gauge! By my estimation it should read below 4 Ohms or as a dead short at the "Full" position and over 185 Ohms at the "Empty" position. Check it first to make sure it's bad before you tackle disassemble as it requires a fine touch and patients once you decide to take it apart! First I used the edge of a file to clean off the tops of the three rivets that hold the housing to the flange. The red arrow. I used the edge of a utility knife blade to gently pry up the housing. If you flip the housing over you will see the "Wiper" as I call it. Make sure this isn't damaged or missing. This maybe could be repaired be soldering a small replacement piece to it. I don't know for sure as mine was fine. Here's what you'll see attached to the flange: This is a simple wire wound resistor. It should be attached to the small brass tab at the left (Red arrow) and simply terminate at the blue arrow. Mine was detached at the red arrow. I suspect this is probably a common cause of these not working. I looks as if it is just wrapped around the tab a few times and then the tab is bent over. After years of use it probably just comes loose. Put your Ohmmeter on both ends and some places in between. The closer you move the test leads together the small the resistance should become. I disassembled this to facilitate cleaning. I don't recommend this unless you feel there may be a break in the wire. I broke off one of my mounting tabs and had to solder it back together. It was super tiny and pretty difficult! And I have good eyes and steady hands. Here is my completed repair. I wrapped the wire carefully around the tab, bent the tab back into place and soldered it together with a 15 Watt soldering pencil. Line everything up and be sure to hold the wiper back for reassembly then just use pliers to press the housing back onto the rivets. Now is the time to test your work! One end of the ohmmeter in the screw terminal and the other on the flange. The only thing left to do is to apply a couple spots of a JB Weld like material or as I plan on doing, having someone use a TIG welder to reattach the rivets. Like I said, I hope this helps someone else out! Thanks for looking!