Hello, We are in need of a backhoe for a lot of work on our new property. I am a newbie for operating and working on heavy machinery. Our budget is limited so used and old look like the only option. The is a 580 CK backhoe for sale locally for $4500. It isn't pretty and needs a starter and all seals replaced. I do not know the year although I researched that they were only built from '67-'71. I do not know the how's either. I know it is a crap shoot, especially for a newbie like me to go and look at and maybe buy. I thought I would try here for thoughts and opinions. Thoughts in general on this machine (for what little you know of it)? I am ok with tools and working on cars, would I be able to do he repairs myself? Any special tools? What else should I look for when I go and check this out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim
The serial number would give you the year. Value depends a lot on condition and if its diesel or gas and if it is equipped with a power shuttle. I have a '68 that I have owned for close to 25 years. When I got it, the hoe needed most pins and bushings. I arranged the local college to do most of that since I didn't have the time or place to do that work myself. Any good hydraulic shop can supply hoses, seals and packings for the cylinders and rebuild any that need rod replacements. They are generally a simple machine and not too difficult to work on. Manuals are mandatory. Used and aftermarket bits are available if you look hard enough. If I were looking today, would want a decent runner, check the various cylinders for leaks and scored rods. Any scoring on the rods will damage the gland seals. Around my part of the world, a quality shop rebuilt cylinder runs average $700 each. If you can rock the hoe by pushing on the bucket end, it will indicate how much wear you have in pins and bushings. A little isn't bad, but much more will mean bushings and pins. I also had the swing cylinders rebuilt due to bad leaking caused by a bent rod. Look for cracks on the loader frame and backhoe. Search on here for 580CK for some discussion on damaged loader frames as it is common on abused machines. The shuttles can be a problem and may be both expensive and difficult to repair. If you have tools and time, you should be able to complete a lot of the work yourself, but it will cost. As an example, I bought mine in 1990 for $4500, spent almost $5000 in immediate pin and bushing repairs and have put another $2-3000 in since. That is way more than its worth, but for me its been a reliable and useful machine. Bigger than the compact tractors and smaller than most construction backhoes on the market today. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on here and hopefully some of them will chime in, as I may have missed a lot of important things to look at. Good luck on your adventure... Jess
Exactly as Jess said, look at the rods for gouging or pitting, and the rest of the machine for functioning as expected. Rebuilding hydraulic cylinders is easy, IF you can get them apart, there are some tricks that help, but it comes down to a lot of torque, ie 1" drive sockets, big gland wrenches. The wiper and gland seals might be cheap if the piston seals are still good (after 45 years?) IF you can do the cylinders yourself, and IF you can live with the pins and bushing for the work you need to do, and IF it's in functional shape all around, then it might work for you. If you're going to replace the pins and bushings, or if it needs some new cylinder rods or rear tires or other major work, then I'd look for a much newer one because you're going to have more into it than you could have bought a newer one for to start with.
I'm no expert, but I am in a similar situation and have just bought my own "project" backhoe. My quick assessment is that there are many, many variables to both the monetary value of the machine, and the effort and parts expense you may have to put into it. If it's in good working condition all around with no exceptions at all, then $4,500 might be an ok price. Problem is, unless you're experienced and really know backhoes, you have no way of knowing. You really just can't tell everything you need to without experience, and the chances are really high that it needs work, and backhoe repairs seem to be on the order of $1K increments. If you can find an expert, pay them to go look at it and run it through it's paces. Drive it in all gears, check the brakes, do they both work? do they chatter? dig with it, load with it. Check the hydraulic power, will the loader, backhoe and stabilizers all easily lift it into the air? Then lift it up in the air and run it in gear (safely) and listen for bad gear whine or broken teeth clonks. Make sure the steering works from lock to lock smoothly. Check for blowby from the engine breather, does it run smoothly, does it rev to the readline easily? does the hand throttle work right? how's the muffler, the tires, check the condition of the engine oil, the transmission oil, the shuttle oil, the hydraulic oil, the coolant. Are there hairline cracks in the boom? around the pin holes? is the swinghousing have cracks? is it cast? Are the pins correct or are they old bolts and spikes that have been welded into place? how are the hoses? do you see steel braid peeking through? Is it held together with bailing wire and duct-tape? Is the battery held in with a couple rocks? My point is that there is an whole lot to check, and without experience, you're in the dark. A lot of what I just mentioned I saw while looking for my backhoe. I made a simple one-page backhoe inspection checklist, and I can send you a copy if you are interested. Good luck! Garret
Thanks everyone for all your feedback. I am starting to feel this one is not for me but I appreciate your help. Jim
Just to give you an idea of what parts cost. I bought a stabilizer cylinder packing kit to reseal (one cylinder) at a Case (CNH) dealer Thursday. $60.50 plus tax.
I bought mine as well over 20 years ago for $5000. I never changed even brakes on a car before but w/ the manual I rebuilt the 188 diesel motor, new injector, injector pump, re-packed cylinders but they leak due to scored rods. It's so simple to work on I think. I had a friend split it & change the clutch for free so he could use it. Anyway, friends bought newer machines like a B or C & still have to spend big bucks repairing shuttle etc. I purposely bought a manual dry clutch because I heard they were less worries & expense than the shuttle but not sure. I love my 1968 CK. It's amazing how powerful this old thing is & the eninge is just putting along. If I had to do it all over I'd do the same thing although now, 20 years later, you can buy a C for $5000 instead of a CK. I kind of like not having the ROPs since it's so low I can store it inside my short door garage. Good Luck Jim
Cylinder rebuilds and new hoses are a constant way of life if you own equipment. The shuttle makes for an easier hoe to operate. Diesels are easy to work on but expensive for parts. Get a good work manual for whatever you buy. I too would have held out for a C if I could have but like the CK. I personally don't think that you'll lose much money as long as it runs & operates. Any old Case that operates will be worth 3500 to 5000 for a long time to come. But, I don't know much!
I Have read all of your 403 posts Packratc. You know way more than you are telling us. I would bet you are a Case shuttle expert