Tractor has 140 psi. at start up then falls to 40 psi after a few minutes it will stop with 0 psi. The drive shaft stops turning. Have replaced converter, filter and electric solenoid. All valves look good, checked sump screen. Rebuilt clutch packs. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks Shawn
Welcome to HEF @Shawn Stevens We need a little more info about your machine. Can you confirm if you have a Borg Warner shuttle & transaxle (4sp gearshift from floor) OR phase 3 transaxle ; PIN JJG +20000 ; 4sp gearshift coming from the RH dash ? Guessing it is phase 3 but just need to be certain.
Did you replace the pump when you did the converter ?
I'm assuming you have a borg-warner shuttle. Did you replace the declutch plunger in control valve? Is the declutch solenoid working correctly? Also check the relief valve in the shuttle control valve.
It's a phase 3 transaxle. no I didn't replace the pump. checked all the valves in the valve body. all valves are free, no significant ware on valves. What get's me is the drive shaft stops turning. Thanks Shawn Vin #JJG0132181
Did you buy the machine with this problem? Did the problem begin suddenly? Gradually over months etc? I'm curious..... You "rebuilt the clutch packs" - so the transaxle was out of the machine - were the plates worn? & replaced? Clutch pack pistons were resealed? Did you dismantle the charge pump & inspect it & decide it didn't need replacing? Was this problem the reason you pulled the transaxle? Or has the problem occurred since the rebuild? Also, your serial number doesn't match the phase 3 fitment???
It came in the shop like this. The shifter for the transaxle is in the right console. Clutches look new just replaced sealing washers and rings. The charge pump looked good no noticeable wear
OH......That's not good...... Did the owner admit to doing anything to attempt to "fix" it??
He bought it like that.
The plot thickens.... There are two different types of transmission control valve fitted to these. Easiest way to identify, is one has a short external steel tube that goes across the valve (also has neutral start switch on the top) & one does not. Do you recall which you have? Also, did the plugs for the valves in the torque converter housing look like they had been removed or played with?
We have a short tub with a neutral start switch. Don't think so will ask the Tec in the morning
Ok, you probably have tried already, but find out as much info as you can. Does the present owner know the previous owner? - can they give some insight into what happened? I've attached the schematic for your particular control valve, in case you haven't got one. It may help.
Thanks for all your help will let you know what I find out. Shawn
Pressure starting decent cold then drifting off to 0 is pump bypassing internally, can appear perfect but the tolerances for clearances can be such as to not deliver much of any pressure. Are talking less than a few thousandths to lose all pressure, that along with any relief stuck partially open or opening too low same problem or exaggerates the problem. Additionally if the pump is a High mount with suction low that can be sucking air thru the suction line. Seen All the above on my current but different make loader.
It seams like it runs out of oil, the drive shaft stops turning when it stops. have checked all relief valves will check again. The suction seams tight got one short hose on it. Thanks DMiller
Would seriously be looking at a pump
Thanks
I’m like the others here, I’d be looking at the pump being bad. As it seems it starts cold with good psi but as it runs it drops looses psi. Sounds like a worn pump to me. I went through this same garbage on mine playing the guessing game. Can buy a new transmission cheaper than you guessing.