I have changed the injection pump(due to no throttle response), the torque converter/transmission (had metal in the suction screens). It throttles up but when driving or operating it falls on it's face (1000 rpm from full throttle). Any ideas? This one has Mr stumped and I've been a mechanic 35yrs.
Just thoughts not solutions ... Sounds like lack of fuel. That it runs at full throttle says it's getting a surplus of air but when asked to work, the available fuel isn't enough. A new injection pump says the governor should respond (bad twice in a row?) So what are the other things that could restrict fuel flow? Thinking again ... does the engine have a turbo charger? A charge air cooler? Either of those can be a source of your problem too.
The main reason the injection pumps fail is a lack of supply pressure from the supply pump, this could be a supply pump problem or a fuel filter issue, another thing we had problems with on Ms was bad fuel lines weatherchecking and cracking allowing air into te suction stream. TheM's style injection pump will not live without the proper charge pressure to it, I hope thepumpguy can shed more light on that subject but that has been our experience. Timing those engines is a procedure which is impossible without specialized equipment and should be done by a trained tech. Does the hydraulics kill it as well? There are drive issues but they affect only the stall speed not the loaded hydraulic stall.
I have the exact same problem.
What kind of fuel pressure should it make?
Hey Remingtonwilly, i am in your boat. May i ask if you were able to pinpoint the issue? thnx eitherway
Need clean air and sufficient fuel with the correct timing of the pump. Check the output of the transfer pump while cranking and try blowing back gently through the air lines to the tank. Do all the simple testing first. Simon C
Sorry I meant blow back through the fuel lines to the tank. Have the fuel filters been changed and does fuel pour out the outlet of the fuel filter non-stop. If I remember correctly, you will need a fuel line timing light pulse adapter to set timing according to the timing code found on the valve cover tag if is still there. Only couple degrees out will mean no power, but insufficient fuel to the injection pump will do the same thing. Simon C
The SM2's had an issue with the engine timing, was a procedure that Case issued was rather drawn out. What I did was remove the valve covers on cylinders one and four bring no. one up on TDC by watching the rocker arms. Then remove the IP and turn shaft key way to line up with mark on pump housing then lock it down and reinstall. The reason for the timing issue is because the timing pin hole was drilled to big and cause timing to be off.
Thanks for sharing that the hole the pin goes in was too big. Don't need much play to be out a few degrees. Do you recall how many degrees advance yours had, or did you just line up marks? Simon C
I just aligned the shaft with the mark. As per the service bulletin we were supposed to make a pointer to attach to front of engine and then put a fixture plate to number one intake valve to stop it coming all the way to TDC then mark the crank pulley. It was just a cluster flop so in the field I do what I said earlier.
This seems to be a common issue on 580SM series 2s. Is it unique to the Iveco engine? A bud is experiencing the same thing. Last we talked he was trying to get it on his trailer and haul to the dealer.
Those IP’s mounted on the bell housing are junk they trash themselves and the injectors.
Great info guys. I went thru most simple stuff. (backstory Note* full filter service done in NOV2024. worked for approx 30-40 hrs, then machine sat for local freeze JAN THRU FEB. Then got back at it, worked 5 days no issues, and in middle of work day #6 it just quit.... ) First replaced the water and inline filters, then installed fresh lift pump, then played with bypassing fittings and hose sections, checked fuel line integrity, watched return lines for air, added new o-rings at necc fuel fittings, gave it some fuel conditioner. Still and always has run like a dream at anything above 1/4 throttle to wide open. Add hydraulic load and it starts struggling or bring throttle near idle and it dies, real quick no cough, no smoke. Since this issue appeared the machine will now only start with SOME throttle applied. if i crank starter w/o the pedal pushed, you can plainly tell it is getting no fuel whatsoever. Only when i give throttle it immediately starts catching then fires right up again. So key on, 12 volts to Fuel solenoid and no fuel, push pedal, then comes the fuel. I should be getting my new solenoid in today/tomo. My existing one throws the plunger and holds it out, but i am only getting 8 Ohms between case and top terminal of the unit when pulled. I "heard" 20-40 ohms is necc for a shut off solenoid. Anyway i guess if it is the IP, so be it at this point. Any comments welcome. THNX again!!
Have you checked for fuel output after the filter, after you changed the filter? The reason I am asking is locally they had a loader that dies no fuel and after changing fuel filter it died again. It never restarted. 2 days later found out the new filter was plugged again. Big gulp of water is all it was. Simple check to do. Simon C
Thanks. Machine will run as long as throttle is applied. This a.m. i drained pet cock at F/W separator, it was all clean fuel that came out. One thing I did notice-- it had a little puff of pressure release as i opened it...
UPDATE. Fuel solenoid came in last night, replaced existing one. NO FIX. Found and checked a second solenoid on top of pump outlet. It clicks with 12 volts, and reads out at same OHMS as the brandy new one and existing. 8 ohms for all. OOP did his IP annnnd a torque converter with no fix.