This topic has been covered several times in this forum, but the answers vary every time! Does the carrier plate need to be removed to replace this seal? Is there room to add a new seal over the old one? Thanks.
If its the same as my 580ck, then you will not have enough room to add another seal on top. Somewhere Melben posted a procedure to tighten up the brake on the opposite side in order to hold everything in place when you pull the other side apart. There is an O ring that should also be replaced when you have the bearing carrier off. Be careful with the splines on the side gear when you put the carrier plate back on, its easy to damage the seal. Electrical tape barely covering the spline will let you get it out without damaging the seal. On mine, I have a diff lock on the right side and it has two small seals which also need to be replaced but I don't know B's came with that option. I used a ratchet strap to pull on the brake lever and hold it on while doing the seals on the other side.
So, remove the set screw and studs from the carrier and slide the carrier assembly off the gear... replace seal on the bench and reinstall? What is the purpose of locking the brakes on the opposite side during removal? I don't have the diff lock. The electrical tape is a good idea.
Using the opposite side brake to lock the diff shaft in place keeps everything centered. Once you have the brakes off the side you are working on, remove the screw, and carefully work the carrier out of the rear casting. Once its out, the side gear will be loose as well but the bull gear will keep it from coming all the way out. You will have shims behind the carrier plate and they are easy to damage if you pry too deep. These shims set the diff main pinion backlash, so must go back the same. I used a screw driver and tapped a little around the four sides to loosen the carrier. Rust and any junk can be cleaned off the carrier and mating surfaces in the gear casing. Clean the drain passage in the carrier and press in the new seal at the bench. Tape your splines just enough to cover so you can still get the tape off without it being under the seal lip. Be sure your shims are in place and carefully slide the carrier back into place. Try do to force it as you could damage the O ring. Lube is your friend. Once on place, you can put the screw back and pull the tape. Reinstall the brakes and torque to spec. Release your opposite side brake and adjust as necessary. The drain passage outside of the seal allow any oil that passes the seal to drain out before contaminating the brake disc and drum / bands. Hope this is of use to you. I found most of this info by searching here and some of it is included in my 68 580CK Project thread, including pictures and links to others experiences with this. Here is a link that was useful to me... HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks for taking the time to reply with these detailed instructions. That link is the goldmine I was looking for... these forums are difficult to search, especially when you are not sure how much changed with different models. The 580B seems identical except for the springs in the brake housing... I don't think I have those.
I did have the return springs in the brake housing... at one point in time. They were rusted and gone! Local case dealer had them on hand for $6 each (reasonable).
Its been mentioned here before but if you need parts, try Dale Weiss at Tractorstuff in Indiana. He will answer questions on the phone, knows Case tractors and can supply both Case and aftermarket parts for very reasonable cost. I have ordered a number of different parts and received them up here in just a few days. I had the springs in my brakes but order replacements and the discs along with all the brake bands, replacement discs, rivets and tool. My brakes were soaked with gear oil due to failed seals.
Just to clarify (and maybe keep someone from destroying their new seal in the future)... these directions are great, however, I still did it wrong. It is not the splines that will kill your seal, it is the circumferential channel between the splines and the smooth shaft that'll get you. I taped the splines thinking I was good to go, after all, they are a bit sharp on the edges. But the seal closes into that channel, and if you are not perfectly aligned, the seal will not expand back over the shaft evenly. You will catch the edge of the seal on the channel and tear the seal. Be sure to wrap the tape over the splines AND over the channel. Then your seal will easily slide all the way back to the smooth shaft. I should've recognized this risk, but I took the directions too literally. Thanks again. The job is done. P.S. I did away with those good-for-nothing studs on the brake housing and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Now the covers slide on and off with ease!
Good job! Its too bad you had a problem with the seal and after reading this, I looked at the pictures that '68 Case posted in the linked thread. I can't see the channel you are describing and don't recall it on mine. That may be a difference between the older 580s and the 580B. Your experience, added to others will make it easier for the next one. I'll have a look at the parts breakdown and see if its shows on the 'B'.
I didn't snap a picture while it was apart, but I found this image on the web of a shaft with a channel like on mine. Not sure why it's even there...
I remembered that I had changed a side gear and looked at it. Its does not have that groove as the splines are machined right up to the seal and bearing surface. Its something to watch as there are subtle differences in parts, even on the same models. I'll get a picture later today...
Ok, I'm wrong again. I replaced the left hand side gear due to wear from a failed thrust washer. It looks exactly like the one in the picture posted above. I guess I just taped over that groove but don't recall seeing it. The splined portion of the diff shaft that goes inside the right side gear for the diff lock doesn't have that groove but I damaged one of those small seals that fit inside the right side gear. I don't think the 580B has a diff lock, so the diff shaft would be different.
Correct, no diff lock on the 580b... the diff brakes are symmetrical left/right.