i have overhauled chevy motors in my youth. wondering how hard on 580b? i have tools engine puller ect. did not know what i am getting into. also i have places to do head crank. did not know best place to get kits.
rebuild I guess you are talking about a Case 580B backhoe. The biggest thing I would consider, is total rebuild or inframe. The thing about any piece of equipment, is getting to the parts needed to remove. If I remember, the 580, after you strip the cowling, is pretty easy to get to the head and pan. Just watch how things come apart, I cant think of any weird things you would have to do. Head off, pan off, oil pump off (if its inside, some pumps are outside) if yours is inside, make sure to check for shims, for mounting the pump) I dont think you will have this problem, pistons out, Pull a couple main bearing caps and look at the bearings, you may have to roll a new set in. Hope crank is OK. I dont think this engine has linners, so hone the cylinders, new rings and bearings and start installing. What I do, is take my cylinder head to a machine shop and get them to check and rebuild the head, I take my pistons and connecting rods there also and they check the pins. I get them to install the rings on the pistons and make sure they fit OK. Then its off to installing everything, after a good cleaning. Of course, you are going to need, the special tools to install some items I would replace the water pump, if the oil pump was within the budget, I would replace it also. I would buy a manual for your machine to get the torque specs (check eBay) As far as parts, Google 580B and you can get a bunch of places. I would use aftermarket parts, but thats just me. I guess I should have asked this at the beginning, How bad is the engine? Does the front and rear seal leak? If the answer is yes to the rear seal, the engine has to come out, Im sure its a one part seal. Now it becomes a problem, if youve never done this sort of thing, its possible, but its a PITB and without the necessary tools, hoist, jacks, etc. it might be better to find a guy that works on the side and hire it done, This is major work and not for the normal weekend mechanic. As far as just rebuilding the engine, I think if you have experience rebuilding any engine, just use that common sense with the 580. Good Luck
I seem to think on the old Case engines that one of the bolts that secure the valve rocker shaft is a hollow bolt that delivers oil to the rockers, be watching for that bolt when removing rocker shaft and note which hole it came out of.
ATCO, your right on. Up to serial number XXXXXX it's in the center. After serial number XXXXXXXXXx it's in the rear one. Unless I was doing a valve job etc. I'd wire all the rockers together and not touch the rocker adjusters. Getting all that back together is tedious. The d188-207 has wet sleeve liners. The 188-207 also has 3 different length head bolts; note where they go. Also don't forget about the allen head bolt in the water pump housing. The head is as far as I've gone but it wasn't bad. Fairly straight forward. I would get a shop manual though. HTH
I think A&I makes an engine kit, most farm dealers can order it. Shop around for a better price. Ask your machine shop too. I remember the kit was about $1100 Can. It's likely the large liner flange but they will ask for the engine serial # located on the engine block, lower right side. If it's a diesel I highly recommend replacing the liners. Check the block for cracks between the liners. Liner height is important on the diesel. Doing an in-frame is easier but you will miss certain items like the crankshaft seals, cam bearings, and a proper crankshaft inspection. Phil
Phil; What if there are cracks in the block between the liners ? Is it repairable ? I have no experience with diesels. But I used to drag race on a 1/4 mile strip so I have had quite a few motors apart. I am just looking into the future in the fact I may have to overhaul my Case 301B diesel engine.
G188 and 207 diesel blocks I'm glad you brought that up. I have not heard of a successful repair although theoretically it is possible. I'm thinking this would be gas welding with cast rod in a furnace. Everything shrinks a bit with furnace welding of cast from what I've been told. Okay for cylinder heads, once or twice, but with a cylinder block, it would require machining and likely bottom liner bore inserts. From what I've been hearing 580CK, B,C,and D engine blocks are getting very, very hard to come by. The use of ether in cold climates could make the problem worse farther north. I've seen them cracked from top, down through the liner bore into the main bearing saddle. Coolant then starts leaking at the crack between the liners at the bottom bores. The support for the liner at the top of the block, and sealing of coolant, may not be an issue with the crack at the top. I believe your 301 is a 680 engine(?), I have never heard of block problems with that design, only cylinder head cracks. Phil
Yes Phil,It is a 680 one of the last ones made in the CK series.