Redoing brakes on my 580c. The bearing carrier has uneven grooves on the braking surface from someone running it metal to metal. I assume I need to remove the bearing carrier and have it machined flat. I've tried removing the Phillips head screw, but it won't budge. I've tried a regular Phillips large screwdriver and I've tried a large #3 bit with an adjustable wrench on it. I sprayed the nut with PB Blaster, but doubt that will help since it can't get in there very well. I also tried tightening it then loosening it. It didn't move. I haven't tried heat or placing a screwdriver on the screw and hitting it. I'm trying to be cautious so I don't strip the head. I don't want to have to drill into the screw and don't have my welder set up to weld on to it. If I just replace the pads without machining the surface flat, I assume that will wear the pads prematurely and I'll be back at square one. Once removed, I plan to put anti-seize on it for reassembly. Do I need a large Phillips socket to use a ratchet or breaker bar?
Just how many hours do you think you're going to put on these brakes in the next thirty years? I'd slap the pads on there and call it good, but I can't see how bad it is either. Any chance you can get some heat on the screw? in case there's loctite on it. Otherwise an impact driver is the way to go, either a cordless, pneumatic, or hammer driven type.
Depends how bad the surface is as to what the best option there might be. If it's uneven it for sure needs machined to at least be somwewhat flat, but you can only take off so much before it will be causing more issues as the drum/disc can only expand so much. It also doesn't have to be perfect to work, as the brakes on that beast are really so-so at best even when everything is new and working at 100%. Mine had a gouge or two from who knows what done to them over the decades, and they will still stop the thing. The first I'd do is get some 1-1/2" long bolts and put them in the carrier so it's held against the transaxle, so you're taking any of the stress off the head of that carrier screw from the thing trying to come off. Mine had standard screws, and they didn't cause me much grief, but it got new ones as well as anti-seized up when it went back toegether. You can soak them, give them a few good taps with the hammer and the bit in there, or use an impact driver like Delmer has said and see what happens. Some heat for sure isn't going to hurt them. While you're in there you may was well do the seals on them, even if they aren't leaking, as you'll really be loving life if you're back in there sooner rather than later to do them then and cleaning all that 90w off the pads and such. I'd use the welder before the drill, as the heat there would most likely free the things up quick, as they're not in there too far at all.
torch the screwhead red hot, allow to cool some and screw it out, have done dozens that way, will practically screw out by hand.
Had fastener like yours... Stuck. Broke an impact bit trying to get it out. Welding a piece of rebar to it as a handle...Between the heat and the added torque... spun it out. Re-think the welder or torch.
heat normally takes them out