I have just finished installing new brakes and slave cylinders on my 580C. My question is what is the correct way of adjusting and in what order. The ratchet type nut that I assume is for adjusting the shoe tension, what is correct way to adjust them and i assume this needs done before bleeding the the slaves?
bleed the slaves first then adjust the shoe tension.....
And how do I know when they are adjusted right?
this is from the manual........ Tighten the self adjusting ratchet by moving brake lever up and down until there is .375" free travel at the brake cylinder....
THanks a ton Ghitch. Can you tell me the fluid that should be used? DOT 3?
your welcome.....yep DOT 3.....
Well last night I bled brakes and adjusted but have nothing on right side. Good brakes on left side which suprises me cuz the left side master cylinder was bone dry and looked a little rusty inside of it??? Would this more than likely be right side master or possibly a defective new slave?
Just did a C myself and replaced all cyls as part of the rebuild. Disassembly of the MCs found the holes in the piston completely plugged with the rusty sludge so that fluid could not get to the area in front of the rubber cup. If you are looking for the best outcome, bite the bullet and put all new masters and slaves on to insure a long term fix. If the self adjusters are all in place and the ratchet nut screws on the adjuster bolt easily the self adjuster will keep the proper amount of travel in the cylinder. I just get them close and let the adjusters do the rest. If maintained that adjuster system is very good, if not , just like anything else that gets run down. Mel
Are the master cylinders hard to replace. They look tough to get too?
PA, Most people, our shop included, carefully drilled hole in the shroud to access the outer end of the 3/8 capscrews that hold the cylinders in the bracket, just a ratchet, an extension and a socket will then be required to remove the bolts. There are chrome plugs that will snap in the holes if done carefully. Most people accept that as being better than tearing the whole dash apart and removing the shroud. It is not to bad to change them if this course is followed. Mel
thanks melben..
Do you think there would any way to flush this master with anything to try and lossen up crud? Would it be worth a shot? Only reason I ask is because when i had the brake tore apart i pumped brakes and fluid shot out the hose on this side Im having trouble with so it must be a recent clog. THinking maybe it wouldnt be packed on real hard?? I dont know just wondering, and if so what could I try without damaging seals. I guess it really wouldnt matter cuz if it doesnt work I'll be buying a new master anyways. My thought was to put a full can of PB Blaster in it after draining the fluid out and let it soak over night while pumping once in awhile while plugged off then draining it out filling it up with brake fluid and pumping out all that and discarding it. Am i way off course with this??? haha
The ones that I disassembled had a very significant amount of reddish sludge, almost an accumulation of rusty sludge not allowing fluid to get through the small holes in the aluminum piston to fill the end of the cylinder. I fear that the result will be the same. In my case I could have cleasned and reinstalled I am sure as the rubbers, barrel and all parts looked good, but we are a professional shop and cannot risk failure, the labor costs often are more significant than parts. You are , of course open to any option you choose. Good luck. Mel
Im in agreement melben thats the way I should fix it and will i'm sure. I would really like to have this for a job over Memorial day weekend. How bad would it be to only run one brake taking it easy of course?
I drilled two holes to remove the masters and cleaned them up, rebuilt them with the kit an sprayed email with some rattle can paint. I also put new slave cylinders in. The thing stops great now. Short money too.
what size holes did you drill and where abouts did you drill them? you wouldnt have any pic's?
No pics. Holes are about 1" diameter. Just enough to get your socket in there.