My differential lock assembly(right side) is seized from water and lack of use. I got it all apart and moving again, but have a few questions. The manual does not show a gasket so do I bolt it together with a gasket sealant or put it together dry(metal on metal) There is quite a bit of brake pad dust inside the enclosure. What lube do I use for all the splines, moving shaft, and fingers? Molykote like on the hydraulic pump splines? Also there is a bracket(flat bar bent in a Z shape) that mounts to the two upper bolts on the outside of this housing. It's called a bar lever stop(26A in the diagram) and part number D74240. What is it supposed to do? Mine is just hanging in the air serving no purpose. Thanks, Steve
No gasket used. We always applied anti-seze to the splines and collar. Also we always disconnected the rod making it unusable. Reason being it's easy to tear up something if engage while under power with a wheel spinning. Learn to control wheel spin by using the brakes instead. It was discontinued in the "E" series I believe. Tom
The flat bar holds the angle of the lever when installed correct. The shaft going into the cover has your fork that slides the collar to lock the diff. It also has a spring inside to return the fork after it is disengaged. The other end has a lever that gets hooked to the rod that goes to the floorboard. The lever moves on that same shaft that controls the fork that slides the collar to engage the diff. That lever has a spring inside, when you step on the pedal, the rod pushes the lever down, and swivels on the shaft while holding spring tension to rotate the shaft rather than direct force. If you hold the shaft, the lever on the end should rotate, you should feel the spring tension and release. If I was running the machine myself the diff lock would be hooked up and used as needed. If I had someone else running it, I would make sure they know when and how to use it correct. A two wheel drive machine really needs that extra little bit of help unlike a 4x4 machine that is able to engage the front wheels to help in poor jobsite conditions.
When you say the flat bar holds the angle of the lever, what does that look like? I can't find any pictures of everything assembled, so having a hard time visualizing the correct setup. My lever(cast part) was missing so I got a used one with the spring that goes inside.
Will either one of these two links help? http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49912ar807146 http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49912ar800112 Tom
Yes, thanks Tom.
Sheepfoot, Went to put this on today and it's not working out. There were two different styles of linkages. One was a direct linkage(mine) to the lever and the the other has two linkages that pivot on a bar like a sea-saw. The manual shows the lever pointing to the center of the tractor. But these two different styles work differently. The sea-saw style lifts the lever up and mine pushes it down. So I flipped the lever over 180 degrees so the foot switch linkage would cause the shaft to rotate the correct direction. But the problem is the flat bar bracket does nothing. It misses the lever completely. I flipped the flat bar over 180 degrees and it still misses. It does not appear to be bent. Do I have miss-matching parts? Were there two different styles levers one longer than the other? Steve
Does anyone have a suggestion on how this should be assembled? Steve
diff lock leaver The issue is with the retainer. On the rear of the trans axle rt side is the ser#. The trans with a ser # before 10046712 uses a single hole retainer A36447. This goes on the very end of the level and times the angle for the pedal linkage. The later trans after ser # 10046712 used the retainer with the three holes A148619 to adjust the lever angle. Some units had the bar lever stop and others did not. With the housing mounted check 1 is to turn the shaft to engage the sliding gear, release shaft and the spring at the fork area should turn the shaft back to release. Next hold the shaft and lever end, the clevis pin hole end should be facing the trans at around the two o clock. This sets the lever so it can't go over center outward when the floor pedal is pushed down. The spring inside the lever allows the force to make the shaft turn while holding light force to engage it. I think if you check the retainer you may have a 1 hole and you may need the three hole to make it work correct.
Mine has the single hole on the retainer. But I have the one rod system(foot switch) above the lever, no the two rods. The foot switch has a straight linkage(one rod) so if the lever is at 2 o'clock the force down would turn the shaft the wrong way. So does the lever need to face away from the trans at 10 o'clock instead of 2 o'clock? Steve
Picture of linkage Here is a picture of my linkage(single rod, not double rod) that goes from the inside the cab to the lever assemble on the trans. If you have a 580C a picture from underneath the machine of how this goes together would be greatly appreciated.I'm mostly interested if the lever mounted on the shaft is installed at 10 o'clock facing away from the trans. Thanks in advance, Steve