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580c fuel pump

Redryder ยท 2016-11-08 00:39

This thing sat forever and all the diesel fuel turned into gum. I cleaned out the tank all the lines took the injection pump apart and cleaned it out. Now it ran great for a few minutes and then died. It'll run about 30 seconds then die again unless you loosen the timing plate with the two little screws and let it drip fuel it'll run forever. I thought it was a return fuel problem but I took the line off and stuck it in a pail and I get fuel coming out but it still dies.. anybody have any suggestions

Replies10
  1. #1lantraxco2016-11-08 03:45

    I'm betting it still is a return problem, remove the return line and unscrew the fitting from the top of the pump, run it, it will make a bit of a mess but you can run it long enough to check it. The fitting has a spring and glass ball in the center, may have some debris in it. Hopefully just gunk, could be part of the flex ring though, if it is you need to get that updated with the new kit. The Pump Guy should be along momentarily to give you the professional side of it.

  2. #2catskinner 102016-11-08 06:10

    Ditto! On the return problem. It has a blockage of some sort. Tom

  3. #3thepumpguysc2016-11-08 06:32

    Correct.. Depending on the model of pump, it will have a checkball and spring inside the fitting on top of the pump's aluminum cover. You can screw an open brass fitting in its place, and run a hose off of the fitting into a bucket, if the mess is going to be a problem.. Let it run past the time it would "normally" shut off.. THEN remove the brass fitting, if you had installed one, and screw the checkball fitting back in.. WHILE ITS RUNNING.. If it shuts down again, the checkball fitting is blocked.. If it stays running w/ just the fitting installed, hook up the return line.. if it stalls, you have a blockage in the line itself, going back to the tank..

  4. #4Redryder2016-11-08 08:59

    Okay I will try that when I get back home later in the week. I could blow air through that fitting both ways so I just figured it wasn't that but I'll try. Thank you for the replies I've read a lot on this site just never had a question

  5. #5thepumpguysc2016-11-08 14:11

    If you had the P# off the name plate on the pump, I could tell you right away if it has/requires a check ball fitting .. BUT seeing your not there, its just as easy to turn the wrenches when you get back.. Remember now.. its the 1st fitting coming out of the top cover.. IF its brass, it doesn't have a checkball in it.. You might want to post the P# anyway.. ALOT of people take that checkball fitting out to by-pass the shut down condition.. and it might require one..

  6. #6Redryder2016-11-10 11:03

    Took that fitting off the top I see there's some sort of ball in there that you can see through once I took the fitting off the top it runs fine. The model number is a 2199527 and then right next to that it says A- 148069. Can you tell me can I run it without that ball or do I need to order that part thank you in advance

  7. #7thepumpguysc2016-11-10 11:12

    The 58AJ DOES require a check ball fitting.. Someone knocked the ball out of the one you have.. The Stanadyne P# is 15830. BUT>> if its open.. your clog is in the return line going back to the fuel tank.. Remove the fuel cap and blow compressed air from the line at the pump.. back to the tank and listen for the POP.. then bubbles..

  8. #8thepumpguysc2016-11-10 11:29

    Getting a new return connector isn't going to fix you problem.. it will get clogged even faster w/ a new one. A piece big enough to clog the return pipe, more than likely didn't come THRU the pump.. it came FROM the pump.. When you loosened the side window, did you notice any coffee ground/ mouse turd looking pieces.?? Probably not, seeing the return ball was knocked out and they all went back to the tank..?? You could remove the side cover and look in the corners for any remnants of them OR remove the top cover and do the same.. You might get lucky and its just rust.. but I doubt it.. a piece that big is going to be flex ring material.. Did you notice any RPM fluctuations when you where driving.?? The rpm's raising and lowering on their own/surging.?? No start, engine shutting off and rpm fluctuations are a sign of a flex ring failure.. IF the engine is surging.. DONT run it.. the flex ring failure has gotten to a critical point.

  9. #9thepumpguysc2016-11-10 11:35

    I just reread your post.. it does have the ball and spring.. you can try to blow it out w/ compressed air, poke it a few times w/ a small pick, blow some more and reinstall.. But.. it hold true about the surging.. Try to blow it out on a clean towel and look at the debis that comes out.. if its black hard rubber.. that's flex ring material..

  10. #10thepumpguysc2016-11-10 11:42

    A lot of people just knock the ball and spring out of them and keep running until the engine starts surging, just to save the $.. IF you choose THAT route.. Remove the fitting BEFORE hammering the ball & spring out.. You wouldn't believe the people that smash them w/ the fitting still in the pump.!! not smart.. If you want to fix it correctly.. I'm available..