When I first bought the old girl, and started on it, one of the first things it needed was a fan belt. Couldn't get the hyrd pump off, so used a flex link belt. I guess these things work pretty good in a pinch, but they never stop stretching. Started the engine yesterday AM, and the fan was hitting the rad shroud. Found that rust had built up between the lower rad mount and the rad, causing the fan to just touch. Bottom of rad has a mount incorporating 2 carriage bolts that hold it down. Enough rust over the years had weakend the mount till one of the bolts pulled through, allowing the rad movement. Rad is in the shop getting completely refurbished. With all of that out of the way, I looked at the hyd pump and the fan belt, and knew that there would never be a better oppportunity to get this thing worked out. I could not get the pump off by removing the two mounting bolts, so proceeded to remove the 4 bolts holding the drive to the crank pulley. Once they were out, it was pretty simple removing the pump. Big chisel and a few good belts with a 2# hammer and it moved. Here's my problems. Svc manual makes a big thing out of the proper grease on the splines. I don't know what it is or where to get it. Says remove all rust etc. from the splines, then coat. Splines are in questionable shape, both on the drive, and on the pump shaft. They had a lot of red rust in there, but I had sprayed generously with Kroil so many times, hard to tell just how much. Cleaned as best I could in the parts washer with a stainless toothbrush. Needless to say, there is now considerable slop. I'm not in a position right now to purchase a new pump and drive, and I doubt if replacing the drive only would be good sense. How about if I coat the spines liberally with a copper based anti-sieze and reassemble? Should be as good as it was before I tore it apart, I would think. 2nd problem: 4 bolts holding drive to pulley seem to be coated with some gray/silver substance. Anti-sieze? Some form of loctite? What should I use? The drive has a grease zerk in it, don't see that in the parts manual. Is this something someone has added? Should I pump some gun grease in there after it's assembled? There's no way you could grease it again, I don't think, w/o pulling the rad.
Mine is a 580SE, but I think the couplings are similar. The new coupling I used did not have the grease fitting. One mechanic told me he was not a fan of greasing this coupling but some machines came with the zerk. My pump spline was really worn and ii was just sloppy loose. The new coupling I used was a tad longer than the old one and this gave some grip onto the unworn portion of the spline. So I would say you should put a new coupling on there especially if your splines are OK. Below is a limk to my pictures. The new coupling did not have any loose motion. Mine is still on and running OK.
Thanks Bowen. I've followed your threads very closely, lots of info. My coupling and pump shaft are not worn nearly as bad as the pix you posted, and the bolt holes are not egg shaped. Coupling looks much better than the shaft, as if maybe it had been replaced at some point in time. The pump itself is an off-brand, so may have been a used replacement. I think what I'm gonna do is paint the shaft with anti-sieze and put it back together. Probably give it a couple of pumps through the zerk with the grease gun after it's in place. Did you use anything on the coupler mounting bolts? loctite or anti-sieze?
I put Nothing at all on the threads. On mine them 4 bolts are a booger to get a wrench on without taking something elso off and out of the way...:bash It sounds wild but I would almost recommend to remove the radiator and oil cooler just to change the fan belt. At least you can clean everyhing and check items for preventative maintenance.
I have to agree on pulling the rad, I couldn't get it off the first time, but with the rad off it wasn't too bad. Waiting for the rad rbld, then back together.
Bowen after reading your post from yesterday again, went back and fooled with the coupler/pump shaft. Pushing the coupler past the wear point made a lot of difference. By turning it backwards and installing it on the shaft, almost no play, so waiting on the new coupler to get here. Found a questionable hose on the oil cooler from the shuttle, and in the process of removing it, happened to look at the hole in the bell housing, and lo and behold, there sat the driain for the torque converter. When I changed the oil and cleaned filter before, didn't know supposed to change converter too. Opportune time. Oil was nice and clean, but it's changed now.