Heres what happened today. I was running the machine all day pretty much , on and off. I came in for lunch and when I went back out and turned key to start position and pushed start button nothing. I looked down and all gages had not moved. voltage was still pinned down at zero. So i took out lock and key and sprayed that along with inside the connecter with electronic cleaner and put back together. Turned key on and gages came up and when i pushed start button I heard one click under instrument panel and all gages went back to zero. Could this be ign. switch and how do u test it? Seems to me this is how it acted before when I had to replace switch but not sure many years ago.
We had the same problem with ours. We just replaced it with an off the shelf NAPA unit and a master disconnect. Works great now.
So does this seem likee same problems you had with yours. Same symptoms??
You could check the switch terminal that is the pos. voltage supply from the battery for a voltage reading. If there is a good reading there hook a volt meter to the starter terminal and turn the key to the start position. If there isn't a full voltage reading, most likely it is a switch failure. A switch such as the one previously mentioned will be $20.00 or less at any auto parts store. Also you did have have current to the switch after you removed it and sprayed it. So look for a broken or loose wire. If the wiring harness has a male/female plug anywhere in it check it for a problem.
The main harness has a multiple plug connector down under in the powershuttle area that is susceptable to the pins corroding and rotting off, I have jumped around several of these. Mel.
everything points to Ign. switch, just waiting on it to come in.
Iss this connector in the same place in Mech. shuttle? New switch and still no go.. Switch was in need of replacing as key was rusted in switch but still no gage movement with switch in the on position. i hear some clicking noise behind gages a few times when key hits on position but then eventually no clicking. jumped across starter with screwdriver and started easily. any help would be greatly greatly appreciated
PAwrestling, this is one of those kind of problems that can pretty much only be solved by the person at the machine, too many things can cause this. Unless it's been butchered by a spaghetti wiring expert, main power comes from battery terminal post on starter, heavy gauge wire should go to a 40 amp circuit breaker in the area of starter, either on block or on frame. The wire that leaves the circuit breaker should go to the engine harness. If you follow that harness back toward cab you should find the pin connector to disconnect harness when splitting tractor. Once you've verified you have power at the pin connector, follow the harness to the dash and check power connections there. Good luck.
Is this connector typically a rubber flat connector. And a fairly heavy gauged wire goes from starter to a 1/2" x 1" block with 2 post terminals on side of block. I have 12V from the terminal with heavy wire to ground but the other post to ground I have nothing.
You should have 12V to the starter wire but no volts from the battery ground to frame. I have seen plenty of problems where the negative post cable connection goes to frame, it may be well to verify that. If you ever have a situation where you have voltage on the neg side you have an open ground circuit.
How do you test the 40A breaker? Is it just like a fuse and just do continuity across 2 posts?
It's actually quite simple PA, all you need is a twelve volt test light. First thing, as melben stated, make sure make sure make sure ground is good. Not just visual inspection, actually test it. Place the test probe on the positive battery post, then connect the clamp on end of test light wire to somewhere on engine, then somewhere on machine frame. If the lamp lights up, ground is good. Now you're ready to find where you're loosing power. Connect the clamp on test lamp wire to a good ground and start checking for voltage at various places, positive post at battery, connections to circuit breaker (if breaker is good you'll have voltage at both terminals of breaker), test all along the main power wire circuit searching for where you're loosing power.
Already did the groumd test, good. Got voltage at starter, good. But only got voltage at one side of breaker.. the side that the wire from starter connects to. The other side of breaker is 0. Thats why I asked how you test the breaker but I guess you answered it.
So should I jumper across them and see if I have power at gages
Sure, a temporary jumper across breaker would work. I do this all the time so I have a couple of different amp size breakers with jumper leads on them for this very purpose because there's always a possibility an electrical short has caused the problem, a jumper wire alone doesn't provide this protection.
Is this not just a cheap breaker like this? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COOPER-BUSSMANN-Circuit-Breaker-6CJC4 I think the automotive houses have them. You might burn a jumper wire, especially if you have a short as mentioned. Replace the circuit breaker.
yes bowen that looks like it.. i was thinking of the jumper as a 2 sec hookup to check and see if i got power at gauges only
what a difference a new 40A breaker makes... Anyone wanna start something?? Ican do it now.. haha. thanks everyone. 1 problem down and many to go..
Good to hear the news PA. :drinkup
thanks willie for everything
No problem, that's why we're here at HEF.