I've been searching for a hoe for a while and have been leaning towards an 1978 580c seems to be in decent shape, has a little slop from the swing arm bushings. Until today I found mid 70's Massey Ferguson 50c with cab runs great and it's $3000 cheaper. I'm torn mainly because of the price difference. I can't seem to find out a lot of this machine, unlike the 580c where parts and information is endless. Any ideas or thoughts?
If you have a strong dealer for ** close by and the machine is in fare shape, go for it. I would try to be able to run it in a dirt pile for at least 30 min to see if it stops pulling, runs hot, hyd slows down just like with the case machine. The swing valve on the swing tower needs a close look at to see where the play is, i'm thinking that machine had the big round swing motor ?, be sure to see what is going on there and get some part prices. I would even dump in 5 gallons of fuel if needed to test it, cheaper than getting it home and finding a bad issue with it, carry a wrench with you, their eyes and ears can save you also just doing a quick inspection of it. You will find the case parts easy to come by, oem/aftermarket parts flood the internet, quick and easy shipping. The ** will be more dealer and bone yard parts.
I decided to go with the 580c, mainly because of the availability of parts and all the helpful info on this board about Case machines. So I've got it home played with it about an hour, digs good, does have some slop but I think it'll be okay for a while. Noticed that the boom cylinder is leaking. Can I run it for awhile before I attempt to fix that? None of the dash works because when I took it out if was unplugged and wires were everywhere and broken. Previous owner had installed a separate gauge for the pressure and temp. Oil pressure was around 40 at idle and temp stayed around 180. Strange as it may seem I would like the dash to work. Should I attempt to replace or just settle with a broken dash. None of the electrical works, lights etc. does anybody know where I could get a schematic of the electrical. And anything you guys think I should do to the machine let me know. I would like to paint the stinking thing and get a new seat, I think that would do wonders for her. Thanks in advance.
I would fix the seat first, work on the dash little at the time, do you have a internal leak or external leak. If you see no oil but the boom leaks down, look at the tubes and see if the outriggers have hit them, this gets into some $ quick. If it's leaking oil around the gland/rod end it may not be to costly, but still if there has been contact with the tube and stab you could have a piston and internal damage that has not come to light yet. Lights should be fixed due to season/weather if your going to push any snow with it or work it after dark. Always keep a SMV sign on the back if you go on the road.
Sheepfoot, Thanks for the info. I will check the tubes tomorrow for damage. The leak is external I assume, there is oil on the rod and running down the tube. Would you recommend a newbie repacking that thing or take it to a hydraulic shop for repacking.
Hi Smythcounty PM me your name and address and i'll send you the manuals on CD Ron
It's not a big job, need a gland wrench that will pay for itself, and a 3/4 socket set. The packing kits are easy to install, the thing is if there is damage to the inside of the cylinder, you will see it on the piston when you remove it, then you get into honing the barrel out. Sometimes the damage to the tube is so bad the cylinder tube has to be cut off and re tubed or replaced.
PM sent thank you
That sounds like it could become a major job if it is damaged. Otherwise I think I might be able to accomplish it. If I decide to try I I'll be on here requesting hints and tips.
It's the dipper cylinder not the boom that is leaking. I'm still learning terminology.
Well that is a plus, should not have any dings in it. Yes it's called the dipper/stick/crowd/arm and more.
Extend the cylinder and look at the chrome, any big pits or flaking chrome and you might as well replace the rod, a couple hundred $. Probably just needs new seals, funny how 30+ year old rubber doesn't seal sometimes?
I checked out the dipper cylinder today. Not flaking chrome, maybe a minor scuff here and there but seem pretty smooth to me. Must have been leaking for a while as I noticed so fluid gummed up at to top of the rod. I called the only shop around and they want $250.00 to repack the cylinder. That's if everything goes right, whatever that means? I feel like I could do this myself over the winter, what harm would it be to wait until I've dug my basement, footers and a septic?
Probably no harm. The only bad thing that could happen is if it's been sitting not being used much and you start using it, it's possible the seals will start leaking worse, causing you to stop in the middle of the project. Technically the wiper is probably letting in far more dirt than it did when new and the rod wasn't coated with leaking oil, but that's pretty minor at this point. "everything goes right" mostly means they don't find damage, if they can't get this cylinder apart, they wouldn't be in business long. You could repack it on the hoe in less time than it will take you to get it off and back on, IF you had the right tools.
Thanks Delmer, By the right tools I assume you mean a big hammer, a gland tool, a 3/4 breaking bar and a big cheater bar, an 1 and 1/4 socket (not sure if that is thecorrect size). What else would I need to buy because I don't own any of the fore mentioned tools. Lol.
The gland wrench is the critical one. If you can't get the gland off, you'll have to take it to the shop. You can loosen the gland on the hoe before you disconnect anything, if it breaks loose you won't have any problem. If it doesn't break loose easily, look up or ask how to peen the cylinder. A good 3/4 or cheap 1" bar and socket, or even (gasp!) pipe wrench will get the piston loose, just protect that ROD with rags, old carpet, wood blocks. Pin the rod back in place to hold it. A set of o-ring picks will come in handy for a couple bucks.
...and sometimes they actually stop leaking when you start to use the machine a lot. If the seals are just dried with the heat and lubricity of the fluid, they can get rejuvinated and stop leaking or at least slow the leak down considerably.