I am replacing the steering ball joints and found that the previous owner had welded the ball joint to the power steering rod. That move might cost me an extra $200 to replace the rod. I found a used one but my parts guy sent me the wrong one. He sent me A44642 when it should of been A35873. He may not have the part I need and have a question for anyone who would like to answer? The A35873 calls for ball joint A40963 and A44642 calls for A40962. Is it ok if I use the A44642 with the A40962 instead of A35873 with the A40963? Thank you
just grind the welds..off and replace
welds I am not sure you understood my question? If I were to grind the welds off, I am sure the threads under the weld would be useless for screwing the tie rod on...
I think what Drifter meant was - reweld the new end onto the rod after grinding off the old ball joint. Just be sure to accurately measure the total length of the old assembly before removing the ball joint. There is also a chance the old welded on ball joint was not adjusted to the correct length. I would make sure that the new one is the correct length before rewelding.
May be that one is for 4 wheel drive and the other for 2 wheel drive. Not sure if there is a difference or not.
pictures I am adding some pictures to better explain my question. I am trying to get away from welding. Had the person not welded this one on, I would not be in this situation. The first picture shows the welding. The second picture shows the part mix up. The third picture shows the set up used on other model of backhoes.
Wow! that repair and weld job is about as ugly as it can get. Some people should be arrested for even picking up a wrench !! If it were mine I would disassemble the rod from the cylinder and then take it to a machine shop. A machinist could salvage the old rod and make the threaded adapter, and then weld it to the rod so it would accept the new ball joint . It should be a cheaper way to go rather then a new rod.
I did a quick check on CNH and it appears you have the later rod(A44642) and matching ball joint(A40962). The early rod(A35873) uses a different piston and I suspect the early cylinder may have a larger bore too. In any case if you are considering using your new rod and ball joint, I would disassemble your old cylinder first and see if the piston will fit the rod end. Tinkerer has a good idea; I noticed your old rod has some weld on it further down the chromed surface, so you might want to check that out also. Phil
boy is that ugly wow
I was looking at that earlier today, thinking to myself that " I didn't know Hellen Keller was a welder too!!"
machinest I am going to take it to the machine shop down the road and see if he can remove the weld and salvage or put new threads on the existing rod. My supplier does not seem to have the rod I need. I will update once the work is completed. Thanks for all the input guys....
If the machine shop can't salvage your rod for you & your lookin at the new rod from the dealer as your only option, try these guys, They offer a complete cylinder complete with ends for $209USD. Its the later model from the "D" series which will replace all the earlier cylinders. http://www.collins-services.com/catalog.html I talked with these guys a while back about their swing tower kits & they were very friendly & helpfull.
Thanks I appreciate all the help...
tag on cylinder I just noticed there is a tag on the cylinder with this on it C24602 That number is not referenced in the Case parts catalog. Is this an aftermarket cylinder? Thanks
Your cylinder looks original, complete with matching paint. I don't recognize that part #. Your complete cylinder should be an A37859, used prior to tractor # 8735171. I think the 430, 530, and 580CK all used that early cylinder, identified by the 3 screws on the retainer plate and it's larger size. C24602 might have been a bin location #, just a guess. Phil
580 ck I also have a 580 ck but it only has 00644 hours on it and has been sitting for the last 25 years the plumber who owned dident want it anymore it quit running !!! my problem is getting it running cleaned all fuel lines filters etc changed engine oil havent touched hydrolics yet .some one had removed the fuel injector pump in the past trying to start it
Oh man, I don't believe it. The interesting part about the CK and later B models is the type of tach used. It would be hard to change the hour meter reading. You might just have the machine we have been dying to see. Keep us posted and welcome to the forum JCAR. Looking forward to the pictures. Phil